Mercedes-Benz E-Class

The 2005 Mercedes-Benz E-Class runs on diesel fuel.

EC mode typically kicks in if you are low on freon or have a defective sensor(there is a self diagnostic program that can tell you which error codes are present that I found in the benzworld online forum), I have the same problem and have had the freon recharged, but it must be a defective sensor, there are a few of them.

This is scheduled after 20,000 miles or one year after previous service, but determined by Flexible Service System; then every 20,000 miles or 2 years.

The services are the following:

Interior

· Function check

· Check warning and indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting

· Check windshield wiper, windshield washer system, headlamp cleaning system

· Reset maintenance service counter in instrument cluster

· Replace dust filter (not applicable to SL-Class)

· Replace combination filter (SL-Class)

· Check parking brake (function test only)

Wheels, brakes

· Check condition/thickness of front and rear brake discs

· Check front and rear brake pads for lining thickness

· Check tires for damage and condition

· Measure tread depth, record in mm

· Correct tire inflation pressure

Underside of Vehicle

· Check for major components leakage

· Check for chafe marks, line routing, damaged components

· Check condition of front axle ball joints and rubber boots

· Check condition of mechanical steering components and rubber boots

Engine Compartment

· Check for major components leakage

· Check for chafe marks, line routing, damaged components

· Check and replenish all fluid levels

· Change engine oil and filter

· Check engine cooling system, antifreeze and corrosion protection

· Check brake system

· Check power steering

· Check Active Body Control

· Check windshield washer system

· Check and correct battery fluid level

· Check battery condition

· Check catch, safety catch and hinges on engine hood for proper operation

· Check condition of poly V-belt

Trunk

· Check battery condition

· Correct tire inflation pressure in spare tire

There isn't one. The power feed comes stright from the battery, then via the regulator (controlled by your air con controls). If your ac is runnig constantly, or not as you've inpuit into th controller, then the regulator has gone west and needs replacing. Don't replace the whole unit though, just the regulator, it'll save you lots. google it, you'll find great info on the fix.

The 2009 Mercedes-Benz E-Class's turning circle is 37.4 ft..

The curb weight of the 2014 Mercedes-Benz E-Class is 4200 lbs..

I just did this job two weeks ago on a 1995 C280 so I can give you the rundown.

Aside from normal hand tools and safety equipment you'll need:

A 22mm metric obstruction wrench. This is kind of a C shaped box end wrench. HF sells a set for about $12. A flex head 22mm box end would probably also work.

A hydraulic jack and two jack stands. A chunk of 2x4 would also help.

The Bosch Exact Fit O2 sensors. I used the Bosch universal but in this application I'd go with the exact fit parts next time. Space is limited especially on the front sensor and I'd pay the extra $30 or so for the made to fit part as a time saver. The splice kit with the universal looks good but takes a fair amount of time also so again I'd opt for the exact fit.

Here is the procedure:

Jack up the right side of the car and secure on jack stands. Make sure you'll have enough room to slide well under the car, at least to where the drive shaft is over your chest.

Next remove the two bolts that hold the exhaust to the transmission and set them aside.

Now move to the rear of the car and remove the two rubber hangers from the muffler by hand or with a pry bar. Once you have these two hangers off you should support the muffler with the jack and move back to the center of the car to remove the middle rubber hanger.

Once the exhaust is free slowly lower it down until you have access to the two sensors. The front one required me to drop the system nearly all the way to the ground.

Here is where the C shaped box end wrench comes in handy. I don't know what those engineers were thinking but its impossible to get a normal wrench or socket on these sensors without dropping the pipes out of the car! Sure you've for the right replacement parts? Good, now cut the wires within and inch or two of where they come out of the sensor on the OLD parts obviously.

Next slip the obstruction wrench over the sensor and give it a smack with the heel of your hand or a hammer to jar the sensor loose. Once you've broken it loose it should turn out by hand. Repeat this on the other sensor, connect the wires and reinstall the exhaust hangers and you're done!

I have a pretty well stocked tool box and this was the only way I found to do it with the exhaust still in the car. An o2 sensor socket WILL NOT FIT on these due to space limitations under the car.

--Previous answer below--

Its actually pretty easy.

My new one came attached to a bit of the air in take ducting. I matched the piece under the hood, loosened the clamps securing that part of the ducting, (think I may have had to do another part to get some leeway too) - old out, new in. Electrical wires snap off and on. Took maybe 10 mins.

TO ABOVE POSTER ^

I don't think you have the slightest clue between a MAF sensor and an o2 sensor. Under the hood? We are talking about a sensor (o2) that is located before and after the catalytic converter UNDER THE CAR on the exhaust pipes......nothing to do with anything under the hood. A MAF connects to the intake ducting and air filter ducting. Meters air intake and compensates fuel trim accordingly. The o2 sensor measures the exhaust gas ONLY to determine that the car is running the proper AFR (air fuel ratios) and thus allows the ECU to compensate more or less fuel when needed. The o2 sensors after the cat are purely for evaluating the effectivness of the catalytic coverter, makign sure it releasing fumes within emission standards. Just thought I'd clear that one up. The very top poster is 100% correct about replacing the o2's. Follow his insight.

About 9 quarts.

My 2001 Mercedes Benz c320 key came apart, how do I put it back together.

It is a 3.2 L V6 .

If there is no heat coming out of the vents, but there is air coming out on a 2003 Mercedes Benz E-320, check the thermostat to make sure it is not sticking. If this is okay, check the heater core. If the heater core is bad, there will be water on the passenger side floorboard.

The "ESP" system helps correct oversteer and understeer by breaking the inner or outer wheel as needed to get the car back on a straight path. By pushing the ESP button you are turning it off and will see an illuminated yellow triangle on the instrument cluster. Turning the system off will allow the rear of your car to drift around turns and/or break traction on heavy accelleration.

A bad motor can cause a buzzing noise in your 1997 Mercedes E420 rear-view mirror. If it has a light, the light could also be going out.

12V 72Ah

When you replace the brake pads also replace the brake padsensor (used sensorwill not turn out lights), then the light will reset itself automatically

MB has a hot/cold air direction door , this may not be functioning . Possibly due a faulty switch, relay, fuse or actuator. This case scenario is a cause , not an effect of the result of a more probable, more serious coolant loss, head gasket issue.

It is located between the rear of the engine and the firewall. My MB is C280 '95.

The 2008 Mercedes-Benz E-Class is 15 ft. 11 in. (191 in.) long.

90K mile service should include either a A or B service, spark plugs will be due at this time also, (if not done before) Transmssion service is every 39k miles Air filters, possible fuel filter, pretty much just all the service type work that has not been performed yet, really need to be performed by this time

on the front and back.

I would not get one. it stops in mid air. sucks! not good!

I know that the interior lights could be messed up due to a recent replacement/fixing of the telescoping antenna. Or if this is a (post-1996) W210, this won't make sense to you. The sunroof would most commonly be just switches, clean them some way or another. Unless the sunroof slowly died by getting slower and slower until it stopped working, then it really needs to be greased, seriously using only MB grease.

Not sure what fob is! But for the key, you need to approach the Mercedes Benz dealership. For the C240, 2002 model, I had to pay around $250 for a new key. It can open and close the door from around a block, so take care that you don't accidently open your car while handling your keys!