Mitsubishi 3000 GT

They don't have one. They were added post 1996.

if this sound is coming from the "top" of the engine it may be cause by the lifters. the easy way to get rid of this with out mechanical help would be getting a thicker oil. and also there is a liquid , "engine lucas" which it helps your oil lubricate your engine components better. try that.

Unfortunately with the popup lights you cant just buy bulbs, you get a whole new light with glass and all. To change them simply make sure your headlights are up and remove the screws holding the plastic pieces on around the light. Then you can take the old light out and put the new one in. Then just put the plastic pieces back on and you're ready to go.

222hp

Go here:

3si.org

Look under NA to forced induction. They can help you.

75 litre tank (approximately) this is according to the Mitsubishi handbook 1990 - 1999 Turbo and Non-Turbo models.

*20 gallons*

a non-turbo engine will not hold up to the turbos you will have to put in hardened internals

6 qts

tp many things to think about it

well first...if the pump is making a loud grinding type noise then maybe all you need id a bearing job....but if the pump needs replacing..it all depends on the size of the pump and the size of your spa...middle priced pumps go for around 189.00 maybe 230.oo...and having worked on pools and spas for years i'd say go for a jucuzzi brand or a hayward...and as for the light ...if it's a big hayward brand they go for 110.00.....but if you think you can just replace the bulb....good luck

Hmm, Do check and get more recommendations for pumps of better quality.

If your light fixture is more than 8 years old have a new assembly installed.

k

Well, don't worry about "where" it is...because if you don't know where it is you don't need to be messing with it ;) Resetting it does not involve touching the computer itself. Just take off the negative and positive (positive first) terminals off of your battery. Get back into your car and pump the brakes to the floor 3-4 times to expend any remaining power via your brake lights. Leave the terminals off for 10-15 minutes. Reconnect negative first then positive and enjoy a smoother running car.

Actually dude, You only need to keep the terminals off for approx. 10 seconds. It says so right in the manual, and on both Dave Black's and Jeff Lucius's websites. Both are invaluable resources for 3kgt and Stealths

Dude never ever remove the positive wire on the battery first it causes a bigger spark and if there is anything flamable around your screwed always remove the negetive first and reconnect the positive first and then the negetive

If you really want to get at the ECU (located behind radio). Remove the carpeted panels on each side of the console, under the dash. There will be 3 small 10mm bolts holding it in, and 3 wire harnesses connected.

Yes, there are about 6 bolts on each side you have to remove, you do not have to remove the molding, just use the access panels, however you have to pull the center part out, (3000GT part) a bit to remove the tail light.

4.5 quarts.

No, Turning the overdrive off will only cause the rpms of your vehicle to be higher. Typically you would turn overdrive off when you need more power and aren't worried about your fuel economy. Overdrive is really just used to improve fuel economy as it causes the engine rpms to lower, reducing the amount of fuel used. Turning off the OD won't mess up your tranny. Just don't do it too much, or you're gonna go broke paying for gasoline

From 91 to 93, the vr4 and stealth rt/tt have 2 total

From 94 to 99, they have a total of four (4).

Two (2) installed on the J-pipe before the pre-cats.

Two (2) installed on the Down-pipe after the pre-cats.

The ECU only looks at the first two (before pre-cats) for determining how much fuel to add/remove.

For emissions, all four (4) need to be up and running or you will fail smog.

there r called snake eyes

Linda McCartney

I have a 1997 SOHC FWD with a 5-speed transmission, the only modification is a K&N air system and I hit 0-60 in about 5 secs, I get to 3rd gear. Being that it is a FWD, I don't think more horsepower will improve it alot as it is already difficult to keep the tires from spinning.

Shawn cook 3000gt.us

You really need a manual for this one. The procedure differs for two wheel vs 4whl drive. Go to www.Team3s site there is a wealth of knowledge there. Bob Forest ang Eric Gross provide almost all of the info and you can get a comprehensive manual on CD there. you will need to take the whole assembly apart and then use a puller assuming you are wanting to replace the bearing. The hub may be able to be removed from the knuckle without removing everything else if you are good as it is pressed on. If you are trying to replacce a broken Stud you can do that without removing the hub but you need to do a little grinding on the knuckle to get the necessary clearance. In either case I suggest going to Team3s and joining the discussion forum where you can post this question and interact through emails with the members. Hope this helps Ray

The transmission must be removed to access the two freeze plugs on that side. It is easier to remove the engine, but techinically, no, you do not _HAVE_ to.

I ran into the same problem after re-building the engine. The pressure at idle started to stay toward the low side instead of the regular middle position. Not wanting to take a chance destroying a new engine I could not ignore the low reading and just assume everything was nominal. So you'll want to replace the oil-pressure sending unit. It is a sensor that is threaded into the block on the right-side of the engine (i.e. driver-side next to the firewall. PROBLEM: Before installing the new sending unit, I came across some other owners that said a new sending unit will never read like the original. Sure enough, even with the new sending unit, the guage will fluctuate but usually reads low. The only way to really get an accurate reading of the pressure would be to intall a mechanical guage instead of the electric sending-unit/guage method. That being said, I have not had any problems with the "low" level. You would probably be ok replacing the sending unit (about $100 or so) and not risk the chance that there really IS insufficient oil pressure. If it still reads low after replacing just make sure it moves up a little when you start the car, and moves up considerably more when the throttle is applied. Hope this information helps somebody, Love your choice of vehicle!

*** EDIT ***

Or.... lol, you could just take a look and make sure your plug is plugged into the sending unit! take off the driver wheel, and the plastic cover behind the wheel. You will see the sending unit & pressure sensor. I believe it will have a green plastic clip, make sure it's plugged in.

its your tranny, you probably damaged the teeth on 1st gear or your syncros went out, if all gears are not going in then its your clutch

F4a33

Cylinder #1 is at the front of the engine on the right bank(front). Front of car ------------- #1 #3 #5 ------------- #2 #4 #6

watermelon