they are located in the exhaust system
Where ? how many 02 sensors on a 2003 Pontiac Montana
1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6
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The engine cylinder locations are numbered :
3 - 6
2 - 5
1 - 4
front
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The coil pack towers are numbered :
coil---3---4
pack--2---6
plug---1---5
If the wipers operate normally at high speed, the most likely cause is the switch. This probably means replacing the entire turn signal\ cruise control\ wiper switch assembly. (the entire stalk and harness) You will need to rule-out a bad motor first by hot-wiring the motor to see if it runs in the low and intermittent speeds. You should use a schematic to identify the terminals on the motor before attempting to hot wire it. You can also use a test light at the motor connector to see if power is being supplied at the motor connector by the wiper switch. ( Iam not sure if the intermittent feature is controlled at the switch or in the motor itself but the schematic should show this) Shematics can be found in repair manuals at parts stores.
Could also be the pulse control circuit board which is part of the motor assembly. The whole Motor assembly can be replaced for under $150. First Troubleshoot the switch and hot wire the motor as indicated in the earlier message. Some Libraries have manuals either books or on-line tools like Alldata-DIY. Good Luck
I had this problem. First test the control switches.
I got an electrical schematic from alldata at my local Library.
You need a volt meter to check the operation of the control switch.
First, Remove the wiper arm cover. A long triangle looking piece of plastic just below the wipers on Lt side (when facing the car) It comes about 1/2 way across the engine compartment.
Second, disconnect the Wiper motor connector. (you have to disconnect both the front and rear washer motor connectors to get this one off) It is located near the fill spout of the washer tank (Left side of engine compartment).
Third, Have an assistant sit in the car and operate the wiper controls. Have assistant turn ignition to "accy" don't start! With wiper control on "off" Measure voltage from Black wire of connector to Dark Green wire. There should be 0 volts (or just a few mv).
Have assistant turn wiper control to "lo" Measure voltage from Black wire to Dark green Wire. there should be 10 to 12VDC measured.
Do the same with the Purple wire first on "off" then on "Hi".
You can also measure between the Grey and black wires first off then Hi or Lo should show about - 11.5 - 12V, As your assistant moves the controls to the longest delay the voltage should go down - at the lowest delay setting you should measure about 10.5 V.
If you get these reading you are pretty much assured that the switches are good - And you should be very happy because if they are bad - it is about a $450.00 part plus 1.5 hours of labor - I would not recommend DIY.
Turn the ignition off!
Now all you have to do is replace the wiper motor. I bought a remanufactured one at NAPA for $91.00 + a $27.00 core that was refunded when I returned the old one.
Make sure the wiper arms are in the park position!
You need a TORX bit and a driver that can fit under the body - one of the screws (back Left) is hard to get at. I had to use the torx bit and a channel lock to reach it. There are 4 screws. Take the one holding the control arms off first and pry up the control arm assembly. Clean it off well and re-lubricate it. Remove the other 3 and slide the motor assembly out.
When replacing it make sure you put the "park" arm "V" on the back tab. I took a picture with a digital camera before pulling the arm off just to make sure I got it right when reassembling. (this little arm is hard to see - it is under the control arm assembly on the left - The "V" fits on the back corner of the tab).
Note: The motor comes preset in the Park mode. DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR PRIOR TO CONNECTING IT AND SETTING THE "PARK" ARM CORRECTLY.
Install it and then reconnect the electrical connectors to the wiper motor and to the washer motors.
Put the ignition in "accy" and try the wipers!
- Good Luck
The oil filter is in between the radiator and the engine. If you imagine a line between the middle of the licence plate and the oil plug it should be in the middle
As you did not include engine or Year info I will give a general answer.
Look on the top of the engine, most GM products with a bleed system have a small brass pipe thread plug in the top of a black or aluminum casting.
This is the bleed point, loosen the plug or valve and add coolant to the system until it flows from the bleed, tighten up the bleed. Done.
Repeat if needed.
In front of the radiator. You will have to completely drain the cooling syystem, when it is cold, remove the fans and radiator, then you can access the condensor.
You must have the A/C system evacuated before exposing the condensor to the atmosphere.
Standing in front of the car locate the alternator and power steering gear. The PCV is just to the right between them. The cover should have PCV stamped on it.
Yes, it is accessed inside the glove compartment
its actually pretty simple,pull the ash tray out at the bottom of the center console,there will be a screw at both bottom corners near ash tray.remove these screws and gently pull out on the bottom of the cover that surrounds the radio and the heater controls until it comes free. once you pull the cover off then you will be able to see the four screws that hold the radio in place,remove them and pull radio out.
To the best of my knowledge all Pontiac Transports of all years were equipped with _Fuel Injected_ 60 degree V6 engines. That being so, presumable any carburetor is located in the cargo area and is not a functional part of the vehicle.
the a/c pump could be loose.check to see if the bolts are tight.
Go to the gm service center nearest you with title/proof you own this vehicle, and probably pay to have a gm technician utilize a gm scan tool to re-set the security system between the radio and the pcm.
this also is happening to me right now, and 600 dollars later i still have windshield wipers that work perfectly unless in intermittent, in which case they pause upright... Remove the plastic that covers your wiper motor just below the windshield. On the wiper motor there is a small plate held on by screws, remove the plate. You will see two metal tabs, one of which appears bent. Bend it back and reassemble. The problem usually occurs when the wipers are held in place, by ice for instance, and the switch is turned on.
Yes that will but you have to add boosters in the springs if it is not a police package edition
This is a common problem with Montana vans. Its usually bad wire which runs under the front passenger side carpet.
Check the other lock switch and see if it works. If it does you have a bad switch and it needs to be replaced. If neither one works you may have to take it to a dealer
Don't take it to the dealer! This is EASY! I just finished fixing mine. The remote worked fine, the key worked fine, but the switches did not, and I wasn't about to fork out dough for a switch I didn't need. Pull off the sill plate on the passenger side, and the kick panel. Pull up the carpet toward the middle of the van, and have someone hold it there. You will have to unravel a bunch of electrical tape from the harness.There are two wires (one white, one blue) that have connectors that go from one wire each to two wires each. Cut these connectors off and replace them with a new good piece of wire, about 5 inches long. Solder if possible, tape them up or better still use shrink wrap if possible. Tape up the harness, and put the carpet, kick panel and sill plate back in. Total time 15 minutes.
Do you mean ABS is light is on?
If yes, ABS is not active. The sensor could be fouled and this will have the effect of turning off ABS.
If you are like me, you remember when vehicles did not have ABS and we had to know how to brake in adverse weather... My van went the same I have not repaired it because I feel ABS gives a false sense of security, but like I say I began driving long before ABS.
Having the fuel pump changed at a reputable mechanics shop can run between $550 and $800. The pump I purchsed and installed myself was a Airtex (sp?) and cost me $273 (tax included). Deciding to save $500 I jumped out and took on the adventure.
A few things to check/change before replacing fuel pump - fuel filter (inline under car midway down drivers side); fuse relay (under hood); wire harness connector (under car near fuel filter).
CHANGING FUEL PUMP: 1) Disconnect positive cable from battery under hood; 2) If possible raise van on lift. Floor jack can work also. 3) Disconnect rubber filler hose from tank; 4) Syphon gas if necessary by placing hose into tank; 5) Begin removing three metal starps holding gas tank; 6) As you lower the tank slowly begin disconnecting the two electrical connectors on top of tank AND the two supply lines; 7) Tank can rest on a stack of used tires (if using lift) or on the ground; 8) Unscrew the large washer type nut - may need to use hammer and screwdriver; 9) Remove old fuel pump; 10) Install new fuel pump with new rubber gasket; 11) The new fuel pump may also come with a new wire harness; 12) Will need to cut old plug off and install new one (4 wire colors are the same); 13) Reinstall washer type nut securing compressed fuel pump; 14) Connect two wire connectors AND two supply lines to pump; 15) Partially reinstall one metal strap securing front of tank; 16) Begin working rubber filler hose onto tank; 17) Secure and tighten all three metal straps; 18) Put gas back in if necessary; 19) Reconnect positive cable to battery.
All together this took 2 guys roughly one and a half hours.
What I really discovered though is the 6 wire connector by the fuel pump had been corroding causing a bad connection. I straightened out the pin connectors and rubbed some grease on each one trying to prevent anymore corrosion. Opening the pins also gave me a more secure connection.At your local Pontiac dealer or an auto salvage yard. Check Ebay and Craigslist.org.
To unlock the hood you must first jack up the front of the van and set it on secure safe stands. You must be careful during this next section as the battery is still connected and the starter positive terminal is live. *** CAUTION ***Big sparks and burns can happen if you short the terminal to ground***. Insulate the starer wiring terminals with rubber tape. Get underneath the van and remove the starete dust cover attached with one bolt. Remove the two starter bolts and carefully lower it down and support it. Be extra careful of the terminal studs and shorting. You must reach up (it's a long way) to the hood latch and approximately one inch off centre on the drivers side is the latch bar where the cable terminates. Move this bar to the drivers side and the hood will release. Open the hood and remove the ground from the battery. It is now safe to reinstall the the starter without shorting anything out. Put starter in place thread bolts in by hand first then tighten to spec. replace dust cover. You're done