Tree Care

Very doubtful.

It's called a Banyan tree, but more specifically, its called a Chinese Banyan tree.

First, buy some bee and wasp spray and spray the bush. Then trim the bush.

They will when mature and planted with a tree that can pollinate it . There are some ornamental varieties that are deliberately kept fruitless.

If the shrub was rooted from a cutting then the growths are not suckers but young shoots. If the plant was grafted,unlikely for a Weigela, then they could be suckers. The normal practice is to remove some of the old branches and let the young ones replace them.

If the slope around the base of the tree is fairly flat then just fill in with sandy soil to cover the roots. If the side of the trunk where the soil has eroded is sloped downward, then surround it with curbing or some type of low barricade to prevent the soil from further eroding from rain.

If you are talking about England then they were largely wiped out by Dutch Elm Disease.

Possibly lack of moisture at the roots.

it depends on the size of the tree if its a HUGE tree then charge more but if its a smaller one charge less

its naked

When you get your tree home and before you bring it inside, cut at least 1 inch on a small slant off the bottom. This creates an open "wound" that the tree can take water through. As long as you keep the bottom of the tree and the entire cut area filled with water, you should get a good, solid month out of the tree before it starts to dry out and lose its needles.

you have to have the right amount of sun as their would be in a normal day outside. be sure not to over water the bonsai but water it daily if it is dry. Also consider repoting in a bigger pot or you could use a mixture of small pebbles on the bottom and dirt on the top so the root system doesn't clog up

artificial planting.

my coral tree needs to be trimmed back it has gotten out of hand. is it ok to trim it at now or is it a bad time of year?

Procedures for Rooting Stem Cuttings source - http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8702.html Cuttings should generally consist of the current or past season's growth. Avoid material with flower buds if possible. Remove any flowers and flower buds when preparing cuttings so the cutting's energy can be used in producing new roots rather than flowers. Take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants, preferably from the upper part of the plant. The fertility status of the stock (parent) plant can influence rooting. Avoid taking cuttings from plants that show symptoms of mineral nutrient deficiency. Conversely, plants that have been fertilized heavily, particularly with nitrogen, may not root well. The stock plant should not be under moisture stress. In general, cuttings taken from young plants root in higher percentages than cuttings taken from older, more mature plants. Cuttings from lateral shoots often root better than cuttings from terminal shoots. Early morning is the best time to take cuttings, because the plant is fully turgid. It is important to keep the cuttings cool and moist until they are stuck. An ice chest or dark plastic bag with wet paper towels may be used to store cuttings. If there will be a delay in sticking cuttings, store them in a plastic bag in a refrigerator. While terminal parts of the stem are best, a long shoot can be divided into several cuttings. Cuttings are generally 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sharp, thin-bladed pocket knife or sharp pruning shears. If necessary, dip the cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to prevent transmitting diseases from infected plant parts to healthy ones. Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting (Figure 4). On large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be cut in half to reduce water loss and conserve space. Species difficult to root should be wounded. Figure 4. Treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds can be a valuable tool in stimulating rooting of some plants that might otherwise be difficult to root. Prevent possible contamination of the entire supply of rooting hormone by putting some in a separate container before treating cuttings. Any material that remains after treatment should be discarded and not returned to the original container. Be sure to tap the cuttings to remove excess hormone when using a powder formulation. The rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility, and well-drained to provide sufficient aeration. It should also retain enough moisture so that watering does not have to be done too frequently. Materials commonly used are coarse sand, a mixture of one part peat and one part perlite (by volume), or one part peat and one part sand (by volume). Vermiculite by itself is not recommended, because it compacts and tends to hold too much moisture. Media should be watered while being used. Insert the cuttings one-third to one-half their length into the medium. Maintain the vertical orientation of the stem (do not insert the cuttings upside down). Make sure the buds are pointed up. Space cuttings just far enough apart to allow all leaves to receive sunlight. Water again after inserting the cuttings if the containers or frames are 3 or more inches in depth. Cover the cuttings with plastic and place in indirect light. Avoid direct sun. Keep the medium moist until the cuttings have rooted. Rooting will be improved if the cuttings are misted on a regular basis. Rooting time varies with the type of cutting, the species being rooted, and environmental conditions. Conifers require more time than broadleaf plants. Late fall or early winter is a good time to root conifers. Once rooted, they may be left in the rooting structure until spring. Newly rooted cuttings should not be transplanted directly into the landscape. Instead, transplant them into containers or into a bed. Growing them to a larger size before transplanting to a permanent location will increase the chances for survival.

No, they can self-pollinate. (with the help of the bees, of course) But, they do do better if you have another tree around. Maybe a red plum like a prune type. I used to have an orchard, but I didn't raise plums. I had enough trouble with the birds as it was. Yeah, even if you have a self-pollinating species, they always do better with another one. Genetic diversity and that, makes the fruit larger and maybe a little more tasty.

You do need to water trees....

If they are planted outside they may get enough water from the ground and precipitation but all living things require water.

Native to China and Japan, this clerodendrum is a coarse, sometimes unkempt, deciduous shrub or small tree that grows 10-20’ tall. It is most often seen as a suckering shrub. It must be trained to grow as a tree and is rarely seen growing in that form. As an ornamental, this shrub is perhaps best noted for its late summer flowers, showy fruit and malodorous foliage. Tubular, fragrant, white flowers in long-peduncled cymes (to 6-9” across) bloom in the upper leaf axils from late summer into fall. Flowers are followed by small bright blue fruits, each subtended by a fleshy red calyx. Opposite, toothed to entire, ovate, dark green leaves (to 5-8” long) produce no fall color. When bruised, the leaves do produce a unique aroma reminiscent of peanut butter as memorialized by the sometimes used common name of peanut butter tree for this plant. Harlequin glorybower is a more frequently used common name. Clerodendrum comes from the Greek words klero (fate) and dendron (tree), hence the infrequently used common name of fate tree.

Lingzhi is a kind of mushroom that can be found in Asia. Lingzhi nowadays is used as a medicine to cure different types of illnesses and disease.

Black(or dark) palm is a sign that death is imminent. It could also be a reaction to a medication or foreign substance in your body.

Go to any store.... get ant poison... and set it up along one of the walls of your house... (ants normally do most of their traveling against the walls)... but! the hardest thing about this is if you see an ant, don't squash it!!!! because the ant will carry the poison back o it's nest, or hive, or whatever you would like to call it, and spread it to the other ants.

No. The tree will cope fine. If you add six inches of soil onto tree roots you could kill the tree,

You can trim a tree with no problem , but take too much and it will kill the tree.

No.

No. Its the same as blood. You can give a pint and not be "hurt". You make more, so does the tree.