Glyphosate will kill asparagus ferns (Asparagus aethiopicus, A. densiflorus, A. sprengeri).
Specifically, glyphosate is the active ingredient in Round-Up. A particularly effective treatment is 1 percent solution of glyphosate to 0.25 percent surfactant. Follow-up treatments may be needed before the asparagus fern population is removed totally from the landscape.
Generally, weed problems may be solved by an attack plan of constant cutting down to the ground, controlled burning, and glyphosate. The initial reaction to the cutting initially may be vigorous regrowth. But the constant cutting is a stress that wears away at the plant in question.
Also, specifically in terms of the asparagus fern, it helps to remove as much of the root system as possible. As is the case with herbaceous and woody plants, growth begins from the roots.
If it is not totally dessicated and dead, what I would do is get a small bottle (2 oz. or 4 oz.) of a product called superThrive at a local garden center or nursery . Not expensive, maybe $7. u.s. for the smaller size. Depending on the size of the fern, put it in a container/bucket and put enough water in the bucket to cover the roots and some of the foliage. If necessary, put a weight of some kind on top of the plant to hold it down in the water. Then put 1/2 teaspoon of superThrive in the water, and mix it thoroughly. (if you like, you can put the superThrive in the water first, then apply to the fern). A small amount, a drop or two only, of a dish soap like Dawn will help the water and the superThrive get into the plant's leaves and roots.
Let it soak for 24-48 hours, then plant it and keep it in a cool area, no direct sunlight but bright light. If it is going to survive, you will see new leaves emerging from the base within a month or so, perhaps sooner. When you do, carefully cut out all old, dead leaves down to the base. Depending on the condition of the fern to begin with, this can be done before the treatment is applied.
superThrive is a plant medicine-enhancer-invigorator, not a fertilizer. Do not fertilize this plant or any plant under stress. Only after it is showing new growth, would I apply a mild (1/2 strength) dose of fertilizer along with another application of superThrive in the water for the plant, on the leaves and the roots too.
I have saved many plants, large and small, using this technique. Good luck! :o)
Rather than give you a scientific botanical answer, here's a simple one related to human beings that helps to describe this kind of plant or flower.
In Australia, the Aboriginal people are indigenous, which means they come from Australia and nowhere else. They are unique to that continent.
An indigenous plant is one that is unique to a particular place. For example, the California poppy is indigenous to the state of California.
Both aborigines and poppies can live elsewhere if it is to their liking, but their origins remain the same no matter how long they dwell in the new location.
However, unless you can prove a plant totally originates in the place that you are, the chances are that they were brought back to that country from another country, by the intrepid botanists of the 16th century to present day. Also many seeds floated across oceans and landed on other shores and eventually became indigenous. It is an interesting subject..for many that we call plants in the Uk for instance, are classed as weeds elsewhere
Yes they do. For more details, see Sources and Related Links.
Sorus containing several sporangia.
The spikes of a cactus prevents a herbivore from eating it as well prevents water loss through transpiration.
The plant would die
It will kill the plant's roots. Roots are in earth, which is usually a steady 55 degrees F. and hot water will damage the roots if it is too hot. The material that the plant is in also serves to keep the roots at a steady temperature. Water with a temperature no hotter than room temperature.
All or most types of Galápagos Finches do.
When I was in Morocco at a souk (or market) a vendor was selling Prickly Pear fruit which he had piled in a pannier carried by a donkey. When we asked to buy he used a pocket knife to peel the spiny skins off the fruit. The flesh was juicy and sweet and a bit pippy. So to answer your question: people eat Prickly pear cacti.
A simple insecticidal soap will get rid of the fungus gnats without harming the basil. Pour 1 1/2 tbsp. of liquid castile soap, 1 qt. of water, and 3 drops of vegetable oil in a spray bottle. The liquid castile soap will kill the fungus gnats, and is natural so it won't affect the basil when you to eat the herb. Shake the ingredients in the spray bottle each time you want to use it. Aim the homemade insecticidal soap at the gnats and begin spraying.
Spray the basil plants once you are done spraying the gnats surrounding the plants so that all future gnats stay away from the basil. Reapply once per week to keep a new infestation from forming.
You are overwatering. Once you dry it out some, they will go away.
according to this website,yes:
Shortly, sweetly & very simply yes.
Plants grow taller by using indoor grow lights.
In general, sunlight is better for plant growth as it is intense and contains the full spectrum of electromagnetic radiation required for optimal plant growth.
Artificial light, if it is an ordinary room light, will only support low-light tolerant plants. Most artificial light sources (fluorescent and incandescent) do not provide the full visible light spectrum that is required by plants for optimal growth, this results in plants that are tall and spindly (etiolated) and sometimes discolored.
However, there are special lights with a spectrum that is tailored for growing plants. They have to be on for longer hours than sunlight, but as long as a plant is getting enough light-energy to manufacture its food, it will grow well. It doesn't matter whether that light is coming from the sun or from grow lights.
The downside to extended exposure to light is the plants metabolic functions operate twice as hard for the same amount of output. Recent studies have also highlighted some of the negative aspects of extended photosynthetic periods (extended light reactive period and shortened dark reaction period).
There are times when artificial light has an advantage.
Hydroponic gardening with artificial light makes it possible to grow plants in unreliable climates that are lacking in sunshine - think of the long "night" periods of areas of the northern hemisphere. In some places in Canada forage for animals is produced indoors during the winter months in artificial conditions.
Supplemental lighting is used in horticulture to produce plants in flower outside of their normal flowering period. For instance Christmas cactus, poinsettias, tulips, narcissus, chrysanthemums, etc.
Many houseplants grow better under artificial lamps, not because of the lights, but because it keeps them away from drafty windowsills!
Plants will grow better under sunlight; artificial light lacks the complete spectrum of light provided by the sun. You can purchase "grow lights" which have a special coating on the bulb to produce more light in the spectrum that plants need to photosynthesize. However, they can never completely duplicate natural sunlight.
Artificial lights are produced to help humans see in the dark, so they only need to produce light in the visible spectrum.
Some bamboo, vines and other cuttings will grow in pebbles. If you are going to use a clear glass container, use distilled water. Feed the plant occasionally.
Yes, it can, and fairly easily, too! It is a relatively slow-grower, though, and patience is an absolute must. Be certain to not overwater, and use a well-draining soil-mix to help that aspect; soggy soil will doom the plant. Only water when soil appears dry an inch or so below the surface, and there is no way to schedule this -> you must check it regularly until you become accustomed to the tree's 'habits'. At some point, you will become used to the tree's needs and not have to give it close-inspection as often.
Plenty of indirect bright-light (ambient sunshine) can be sufficient, though a few hours of direct light is certainly beneficial in most situations; be sure to adapt tree into direct sunlight over a period of a week or so as well if it not accustomed to such. During periods of active growth, it should be fertilized every few weeks with general-purpose/strength 'houseplant fertilizer' to help maintain vigor, but do NOT apply too much fertilizer - better too little than too much in frequency and amount. A period of rest during winter months is usually apparent as growth will slow/stop, and no fertilization during that time is best for the tree. Continue to water as usual, though, of course. Repot into one-size-larger pot as necessary, and early Spring (or very-late Fall) is the best time for this. Avoid letting roots dry while repotting.
This species does not appreciate cold temps, so bring inside prior to any cold-spells. Before taking back outside into strong sun, be sure to adapt it slowly into the new environment.
Lastly - enjoy :-)
if they are very little no but don't use those Crystal elements those definitely look like candy i mean I'm 15 and i thought they were candy
Yes, you can cut it. When a Yucca is cut off, it will generally form a new growth at the cut point, and sometimes more than one, resulting in a "fork," or branching. Also, very interestingly, if you strip the blades from the lower 12 inches, or so, of the cut off piece, and allow to air dry a few days to allow the cut or torn spots to "heal," or scab over, and THEN plant that cut off piece, it will take root, and you'll have another plant. I have used this technique many times to multiply my Yucca plants. I have been told that if the planting is done before the cut/damaged edges have dried out/sealed, that bacteria in the soil will get into the plant and cause it to rot and die. However, I'm not sure this part is correct because many times when I have pruned of the tops, and then simply threw them onto one of my compost piles, without any special treatment or help they took root and grew!!!!! Also, if the part you cut off is very long, you can cut it into several pieces, and plant them, gaining several plants from the one cutting.
4.2 liter = 4200 ml
4200 / 310 = 13 (and a half)
The short answer is yes, sugar does help plants grow.
However, excessive amounts of sucrose can be harmful to a plant.
For plants growing hydroponically or in a selective medium such as in a petri dish, sucrose is often used as a carbon source for sprouting plants.
Plants make sugars through photosynthesis by combining water and carbon dioxide. Plants use carbon dioxide as their main carbon source so they do not need sugar in their substrate to grow. But young plants and tissue plant clones that aren't yet efficiently producing sugars through photosynthesis can benefit from the extra carbon stored in sucrose.
Sugar water used in a plant's natural environment can also attract other organisms and bacteria. Although some may be symbiotic (help the plant), many can interfere with the plant's growth or even cause it to die.
Note this question is similar to one frequently asked about growing plants using carbonated soda drinks.
Daffodils are a bulb and bulbs are good at storing their own water reserves. You shouldn't over water them. Water your little pot with about 1/2 cup of water every 4 or 5 days (or whenever the soil goes dry to the touch). Bulbs are also almost completely oblivious to having more soil around them... they can grow out of practically no soil so repotting isn't entirely necessary and certainly not for this season.
Keep them near a window and cool. Don't loose sight of the fact that daffodils are an early spring flower and do not bloom for very long (maybe 3 weeks at most). The cooler you can keep them the longer they will last. 45-60F (8-14C) is pretty ideal temperatures. Repot them to be outside in a container or garden and overplant them with something else for the summer leaving the bulbs dormant in the soil. They'll pop up year after year in the early spring.
Once the flower dries up and gets crusty on the top of the stem, "dead-head" the stems by snapping the dead flowers off... this will stop the bulb from transferring nutrients and energy into the seed-head and will keep that energy in the bulb where it will go into splitting the bulb into multiple bulbs (and you'll see more rapid multiplication).
That's called a "cutting" or "cloning".
they will most likely germinate and start new plants
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