The PGM-FI unit is located under carpet at the passenger side. It covered by frame. Good luck. The ignition control module of any late model Honda/Acura product is always the PGMFI computer, which controls all fuel delivery and ignition timing coordination. Now, if you have a problem, that is ignition related, first replace the plugs, then the wires, and shortly after the ign coil itself. That's how you approach a Honda ign prob.

you can look under your ash tray..or open the trunk and look on the inside top...somewhere near the middle there may be a sticker with 2 5-digit codes...for mine there was only one choice because the other contained digits higher than 6 (you enter the code using the 6 preset buttons on your radio)

No.

Call a couple of local garages as price differs on what part of the country you live in.

Try to wiggle the wheel a bit and trying again.

usually when the check engine light comes on it is most likely to be a o2 sensor i had a 1990 legend and i had the light turned off and it came back on 5 minutes later the mechanic said it was an o2 sensor wasn't cheap to replace the part cost about 80 bucks and they charged me 75 to install because there is tool you need to twist off the sensor

I have a 91 legend 4d which is lowered about a 1.5" front and back. I put 18 in wheels on it and it fits fine. When i got the rims the guy said 20's would fit but i would have to raise it up so i just went with 18's. My tires are 220/18/40 i believe, may be 240 i can't really remember and my car is at home at the moment. but be carefull what offset you get because if you get the wrong offset then your wheels will stick out from the fender and the back fenders tend to rub when you have weight in the back seet or hit a bump.

Yes inside the fluid pan you find the filter yes it is inside the tranny you have to remove the oil pan drive safe

Most probably the light switch assembly on the steering column needs replaced.

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First you take of the wires that are on your head (top of the moter) Make sure that you don't forget witch plug go in witch hole. then theres a ground wire that goes to where your antifreez is at the right handside. Take it off!!Then theres size 10mm bolt on the head i think theres 6 of them. Take them Off then the top of your moter is lose so with your two hands pop it off then lay it upside down on the intakemanafold. theres going to be a black lineing on where the head lays pull it off take the new one and put it on. You what to do then put everything back. That's the best way to explane it.

This is NOT correct. This answer is referring to replacing the valve cover gasket.

First, do what the prior answer says.

Then drain the oil and coolant.

Then disconnect the exhaust and intake manifolds. The intake manifold probably has a brace on it that will not allow you to push it away from the cylinder head. Remove it from underneath.

Then disconnect all hoses and sensor wires connected to the head.

Then by the driver's side front tire, you should see a pulley and a 19mm bolt. This is the crank pulley and crank pulley bolt. Remove this with an impact wrench. If you can't remove it, then remove the flywheel housing cover, it's on the passenger's side of the oil pan. Should be 5 bolts. Then stick a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold it still and remove the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar.

Then remove all accessory belts, then pull off the crank pulley. Make note of the notch in the crank pulley, that has to align with the notch in the crank sprocket.

Then remove the upper and lower timing belt covers, just a bunch of 10mm bolts.

Then remove the timing belt by loosening the tensioner bolt, then you can push on the tensioner and slide the timing belt off. If you're replacing the belt, you'll need to support the engine by putting a jack under the oil pan. Then remove the top driver's side engine mount so the timing belt can come out.

Then remove the cam journals and distributor. You'll probably have to tap them with a mallet to loosen them after you've removed the bolts. They will be labelled such as "IE4" which means "Intake cam journal #4". Keep them in order. Then remove the cams. You may have to soak up the oil sitting in the cylinder head in order to see the head bolts. Remove these in the order specified in your shop manual to avoid warping the head.

Then remove the head, you may have to tap it and pull kinda hard to get it off. Then remove the old head gasket and use a razor to scrape the top of the block and bottom of the cylinder head clean so there's no part of the old gasket left. Put shop rags in the water jacket around the pistons so no junk falls in.

Then put the new head gasket in, put the head back on, and tighten the bolts in the proper order and use a torque wrench to tighten them to the proper spec. Don't just "go by feel" or you might warp the head.

Then put the cams back in, and put assembly lube around the journals. Tighten them to spec also. Usually you tighten to a certain torque in a specific order, then you tighten to a higher torque.

Then you need to put the timing belt back on. There's going to be an UP label on each cam. That has to be completely vertical for both, and the crank sprocket notch needs to be vertical as well. However, on the DOHC engine the valve springs will make the cams not stay in position. If this is your first time, go to NAPA and by the tool that holds the cams in place for $10. Snap it in, making sure both cams are aligned properly, and put the timing belt back on. If the cams are up but the crank sprocket notch is down, just rotate it one more time. If you are in doubt, make sure all notches are up, then stick a long screwdriver down into the sparkplug hole for cylinder #1 (one closest to the driver's side of the car) and make sure it's at the top. Then slip the timing belt on, and push on the tensioner while tightening it so the timing belt is on properly.

Then put the timing belt covers back on.

Then put the crank pulley back on and tighten the bolt to spec.

Reattach all the hoses, manifolds, distributor, and pour some oil over top of the cam lobes. Then put the valve cover back on and put your accessory belts back on. Then refill with oil and coolant.

Start it up and should be fine now. If it runs rough or lacks power, you might have not gotten the timing belt on properly. You can either recheck it or take it to a shop, normally about $70 for them to adjust it.

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Usually controlled by a fuse and a switch located at the upper end of the brake pedal under dash

Yes. It's located on the front righthand side of the engine. Follow the radiator hose up to it. You can't really see it standing in front of the car, have to kinda feel for it. You'll need a rachet with an extension to get to it. I believe the socket you'll need is 3/8'', the classic Honda bolt size.

The gasket must be on both sides of the flange of thermostat before installing.

The AC compressor on a 92 Acura Legend is removed by vacuuming out the refrigerant, disconnecting the wiring, and unscrewing the AC hose. The compressor can then be unbolted and pulled from the engine.

There are 2 gaskets on the engine. The manifold sits between them. When you lean over the engine from the radiator, the silver aluminum molded pipes are the manifolds. Keanly look left or right, you can see the VCG, black in color, run between the engine block and the covers from both sides.

A 1993 Acura Legend requires 24 ounces of R134a refrigerant to refill the air conditioning system. This is applicable to all engine types for the 1993 Acura Legend.

The dealer, with your car title, can provide you with it. You are probably talking about the radio, in which case you're out of luck, because the code is in the car's manual, and the radio you're holding is obviously hot. It works.

You can't its not a supercar, its a glorified family sedan usually driven by people that can barley see over the steering wheel on the way to bingo. If you want a supercar buy a supercar.

Check your starter it may be grounded when hot.