Lisbon (Portuguese: Lisboa, IPA: [liʒ'boɐ]) is the capital and largest city of Portugal. It is also the seat of the
district of Lisbon and capital of the Lisbon
region. Its municipality, which matches the city proper excluding the
larger continuous conurbation, has a municipal population of 564,477[1] in 84.8 km², while the Lisbon Metropolitan Area in
total has around 2.8 million inhabitants, and 3.34 million people live in the broader agglomeration of Lisbon Metropolitan Region
(includes cities ranging from Leiria to Setúbal).[2] Due to its economic
output, standard of living, and market size,
the Grande Lisboa (Greater Lisbon) subregion is considered the second most important
financial and economic center of the Iberian Peninsula. It is also the political center of the country, as seat of government and residence of the Head of State.
Lisbon was under Roman rule from 205 BC;
Julius Caesar made it a municipium called Felicitas Julia. Ruled by a series of
Germanic tribes from the 5th century, it was captured by Moors in the 8th century. In 1147, the Crusaders under Afonso Henriques reconquered the city for the
Christians and since then it has been a major political, economic and cultural center of
Portugal.
Lisbon hosts two agencies of the European Union, namely, the
European Monitoring Centre for Drugs and Drug
Addiction (EMCDDA) and the European Maritime Safety Agency
(EMSA). The Community of Portuguese Language Countries
(CPLP), is also headquartered in Lisbon.
The present mayor of Lisbon is António Luís
dos Santos da Costa, elected by the Socialist Party.
The municipal holiday is June 13, St. Anthony's
Day.
Geography and location
Location
Lisbon is situated at 38°42' north, 9°5' west, making it the westernmost capital in mainland Europe. It is located in the west
of the country, on the Atlantic Ocean coast at the point where the river Tagus flows into the Atlantic Ocean.
The city occupies an area of 84.8 km². The city boundaries, unlike those of most major cities, are narrowly defined around the
historical city perimeter. This gave rise to the existence of several administratively defined cities around Lisbon, such as
Amadora, Queluz, Cacém,
Odivelas, Almada, Barreiro,
Loures, and Oeiras, which are in fact part of the metropolitan
perimeter of Lisbon.
The western side of the city is mainly occupied by the Monsanto Forest Park, one of the largest urban parks in Europe with an
area close to 10 square kilometres (almost 4 square miles).
History
Neolithic era to the Roman Empire
During the Neolithic the region was inhabited by Iberian
related peoples, who also lived in other regions of Atlantic Europe at the time. They
built religious monuments called megaliths. Dolmens and
Menhirs still survive in the countryside around the city.
The Indo-European Celts invaded after the
first millennium BC and intermarried with the Pre-Indo-European population, giving a rise to Celtic-speaking local tribes such as the Cempsi.
Archeological findings show that a Phoenician
influence existed in the place that, since 1200 B.C., leading some historians to the theory that a Phoenician trading post
occupied the site of the centre of the present city, in the southern slope of the Castle hill. The magnificent harbour provided
by the estuary of the river Tagus made it the ideal spot for a
settlement to provide foodstuffs to Phoenician ships travelling to the tin islands (modern
Isles of Scilly) and Cornwall.
The new city might have been named Allis Ubbo or "safe harbor" in Phoenician, according to one of several theories for
the origin of its name[citation needed]. Another theory is that it took its name from the pre-Roman name of the
River Tagus, Lisso or Lucio.
Besides sailing to the North, the Phoenicians might also have probably taken advantage of the situation of the settlement at
the mouth of Iberia's largest river to trade with the inland tribes for valuable metals. Other important local products were
salt, salted fish and the then widely famous Lusitanian
horses.
Recently, Phoenician remains from the eighth century B.C. were found beneath the Middle
Age Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon See) or main Cathedral of the modern city. Most modern historians[3], however, consider the idea of a Phoenician foundation of the city of Lisbon, as unreal. At best
Lisbon was an ancient autochthonous settlement (what the Romans called an Oppidum) that
maintained commercial relations with the Phoenicians, which accounts for the presence of Phoenician pottery and other material
objects.
The Greeks knew Lisbon as "Olissipo" and "Olissipona", a name they thought was derived from Ulysses, though this was a folk etymology. According to an
Ancient Greek myth, the hero founded the city after he left Troy and departed to the Atlantic to escape the Greek coalition.
If all of Odysseus's travels were in the Atlantic as Cailleux[4] argued, then this could mean that Odysseus founded the city
coming from the north, before trying to round Cape Malea, which Cailleux located at Cabo de
São Vicente (Cape of St. Vincent), in a south-east direction, to reach his home land Ithaca, supposedly present Cadiz. However, the presence of Phoenicians
(even if occasional) is thought to predate any Greek presence in the area. Later on the Greek name was corrupted in
vulgar Latin to Olissipona.
Roman Empire to the Moorish conquest
During the Punic wars, after the defeat of Hannibal
(whose troops included members of the Conii[citation needed]) the Romans decided to deprive Carthage in its most valuable possession,
Hispania (the name given by the Romans to the whole of the Iberian Peninsula). After the defeat
of the Carthaginians by Scipio Africanus in Eastern Hispania, the pacification of the
West was led by Consul Decimus Junius Brutus
Callaicus.
He obtained the alliance of Olissipo which sent men to fight alongside the Legions against the Celtic tribes of the Northwest.
In return, Olissipo was integrated in the Empire under the name of Felicitas Julia, a Municipium Cives
Romanorum. It was granted self-rule over a territory going as far away as 50 kilometres (30 miles), exempted from taxes,
and its citizens given the privileges of Roman citizenship.
It was in the newly created province of Lusitania, whose capital was Emerita Augusta. The attacks by the Lusitanians during the frequent
rebellions over the next couple of centuries weakened the city, and a wall was built.
During the time of Augustus the Romans built a great Theatre; the Cassian Baths underneath the current Rua da Prata; Temples to Jupiter, Diana, Cybele,
Tethys and Idae Phrygiae (an uncommon cult from
Asia Minor), besides temples to the Emperor; a large necropolis under Praça da Figueira; a large Forum and other
buildings such as insulae (multi-storied apartment buildings) in the area between the modern
Castle hill and Downtown.
Many of these ruins were first unearthed during the middle Eighteenth century, when the
recent discovery of Pompeii made Roman Archeology fashionable among Europe's upper classes.
Economically, Olissipo was known for its garum, a sort of fish sauce highly prized by the
elites of the Empire and exported in Amphorae to Rome and other
cities. Wine, salt and its famously fast horses were also exported.
The city came to be very prosperous through suppression of piracy and technological advances,
which allowed a boom in the trade with the newly Roman Provinces of Britannia (particularly
Cornwall) and the Rhine, and through the introduction of Roman
culture to the tribes living by the river Tagus in the interior of Hispania.
The city was ruled by an oligarchical council dominated by two families, the Julii and the
Cassiae. Petitions are recorded addressed to the Governor of the province in Emerita and to the
Empreror Tiberius, such as one requesting help dealing with "sea monsters" allegedly
responsible for shipwrecks.
Lisbon Cathedral, built after 1147 over the remnants of the
mosque of the Islamic period.
The Roman Sertorius led a large rebellion against the Dictator Sulla early in the Roman Period.
Among the majority of Latin speakers lived a large minority of Greek traders and slaves.
The city was connected by a broad road to Western Hispania's two other large cities, Bracara Augusta in the province of Tarraconensis
(today's Portuguese Braga), and Emerita
Augusta, the capital of Lusitania (now Mérida in
Spain).
Olissipo, like most great cities in the Western Empire, was a centre for the dissemination of Christianity. Its first attested Bishop was St. Potamius (c. 356), and there were several martyrs killed by the
pagans during the great persecutions; Maxima,
Verissimus and Julia are the most significant names.
At the end of the Roman domain, Olissipo was one of the first Christian cities. It suffered invasions from the
Sarmatian Alans and the Germanic Vandals, who controlled the region from 409 to 429. The
Germanic Suebi, who established a kingdom in Gallaecia (modern
Galicia and northern Portugal), with capital in Bracara Augusta (Braga), from 409 to 585, also
controlled the region of Lisbon for long periods of time.
In 585 the Suebi kingdom was included in the Germanic Visigothic kingdom of Toledo, that comprised all of the Iberian Peninsula. Lisbon was then called
Ulishbona.
Moorish rule
In approximately 711 Lisbon was taken by the Moors (it was called
al-ʾIšbūnah in Arabic الأشبونة), under whose rule the city flourished. The
Moors, who were Muslims from North Africa and the Middle East, built many mosques and houses as well as a new city wall, currently named the Cerca Moura. The city kept a diverse
population including Christians, Berbers,
Arabs, Jews and Saqalibas.
Arabic was forced on the Christians as the official language. Mozarabic was the mother language spoken by the Christian population. Islam was the official religion practiced by the Arabs and Muladi
(muwallad), the Christians could keep their religion but under heavy Dhimmi status and were forced to pay the jizyah.
The Moorish influence is still present in Alfama, the old part of Lisbon that survived the
1755 Lisbon earthquake. Many placenames are derived from Arabic; the
Alfama, the oldest existing district of Lisbon, for example, is derived from the Arabic
"al-hamma".
For a brief time during the Taifa period Lisbon was the center town in the Regulo Eslavo of the
Taifa of Badajoz while ruled by Sabur
al-Saqlabi (Sabur the Slav) son of Sabur al-Jatib, a Slav that had been at the service of al-Hakam II.
In 1147, as part of the Reconquista, knights, led by
Afonso I of Portugal, sieged and reconquered
Lisbon. Lisbon was now back in Christian hands.
The reconquest of Portugal and re-establishment of Christianity is one of the most significant events in Lisbon's history;
although it is known that there was a bishop in the town that was killed by the crusades [citation needed] and that the population was praying
to the Virgin Mary when afflicted with plague, which indicates that the Mozarab population
followed the Mozarabic rite. Arabic lost its
place in everyday life. Any remaining Muslim population were gradually converted to
Roman Catholicism, or expelled, and the mosques
were turned into churches. (Though in Portuguese historiography this was often mentioned as
"turning the mosques back into churches", in fact many of the structures concerned were built as mosques to begin
with).
From the Middle Ages to the Portuguese Empire
It received its first Foral in 1179, and became the capital city
of Portugal in 1255 due to its central location in the new Portuguese territory. The first
Portuguese university was founded in Lisbon in 1290 by
Dinis I of Portugal as Estudo Geral
(General Study). The university was transferred several times to Coimbra, where it was installed
definitively in the 16th century (today's University of Coimbra).
During the last centuries of the Middle Ages, the city expanded substantially and became an important trading post with both
northern Europe and Mediterranean cities.
Most of the Portuguese expeditions of the age of discovery left from Lisbon during
the 15th to 17th centuries, including Vasco da Gama's departure to India in 1497. The 16th century marks the golden age for Lisbon. The city became
the European hub of commerce with Africa, India, the Far East and, later, Brazil,
exploring riches like spices, slaves, sugar, textiles and other goods. This was the time of the exuberant Manueline style, which has left its mark in two 16th century Lisbon monuments, the Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery, both of which were
declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.
- See Portuguese Empire.
Portugal lost its independence to Spain in 1580 after a succession crisis, and the 1640 revolt
that restored the Portuguese independence took place in Lisbon (see Philip III of
Portugal). In the early 18th century, gold from Brazil flooded the country and city, allowing King John V to sponsor the building of several Baroque churches and
theatres in the town.
On 1 November 1755 Lisbon was destroyed by another earthquake, which killed between 60,000 and 90,000 people and destroyed eighty-five
percent of the city [1].
Among several important structures of the city, the Royal Ribeira Palace and the
Royal Hospital of All Saints were lost. The event shocked the whole of
Europe. Voltaire wrote a long poem, "Poême sur le désastre de Lisbonne", shortly after the
quake, and mentioned it in his 1759 novel Candide (indeed, many argue that this critique of optimism was inspired by
that earthquake). Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr. also mentions it in his
1857 poem, The Deacon's Masterpiece, or The Wonderful One-Hoss
Shay.
After the 1755 earthquake, the city was rebuilt largely according to the plans of Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, the Marquess of Pombal; hence the designation of the lower town as Baixa
Pombalina (Pombaline Downtown). Instead of rebuilding the medieval town, Pombal
decided to demolish the remains of the earthquake and rebuild the downtown in accordance with modern urban rules.
19th and 20th centuries
In the first years of the 19th century, Portugal was invaded by the troops of
Napoléon Bonaparte and Queen Maria I
and Prince-Regent João (future John VI) temporarily fled to Brazil. Considerable property was pillaged by the invaders. The city felt the full force of the Portuguese
liberal upheavals, beginning its tradition of cafés and theatres. In 1879 the Avenida da Liberdade was opened, replacing a previous public garden.
Lisbon was the centre of the republican coup of October 5,1910 which instated the Portuguese Republic. Previously, it was also the stage of the regicide of Carlos I of Portugal (1908).
The city refounded its university in 1911 after centuries of inactivity in Lisbon, incorporating reformed former colleges and
other non-university higher education schools of the city (such as the Escola Politécnica). Today there are 3 public
universities in the city (University of Lisbon, Technical University of Lisbon and New
University of Lisbon) and a public university institute (ISCTE) - see list of universities in Portugal.
Parque das Nações (Nations' Park), where the Expo 98 took place and now a venue
for important shows and festivals.
During World War II Lisbon was one of the very few neutral, open European Atlantic
ports, a major gateway for refugees to the U.S. and a spy nest.
In 1974, Lisbon was the central destination point of the Carnation Revolution maneuvers, the end of the Portuguese Corporative Regime (Estado Novo).
In 1988, a fire near the historical centre of Chiado greatly disrupted normal life in the area
for about 10 years.
In 1994, Lisbon was the European Capital of Culture.
Expo '98 was held in Lisbon. The timing was intended to commemorate the 500th anniversary of
Vasco da Gama's sea voyage to India. It was considered
by BIA[2], the best world expo
ever.
Contemporary events
In 1998, Lisbon hosted the World Exposition, dedicated to the sea.
The Lisbon Agenda was a European Union
agreement on measures to revitalize the EU economy, signed in Lisbon in March 2000.
Every March the city hosts the world-famous Lisbon Half Marathon, one of the most attended
events of its kind in the world.
It regularly hosts countless other international events including various NATO, European Union and other summits.
In 2004, Portugal organised the soccer Euro cup, Luz and Alvalade stadiums held some of the games. The organization of the
event was considered the best ever by UEFA.
Rock in Rio, known for being the biggest pop-rock festival in the world with an
attendance that can reach 100 000 people, was held in Lisbon twice (2004 and 2006) and will continue in the city for some years,
hosting concerts of many high profile singers and bands, such as Anastacia, Metallica, Shakira, Guns N' Roses,
Roger Waters, Britney Spears and many more.
In January 2006 and 2007, Lisbon was the starting city of the
Dakar Rally.
On the 7 July 2007, Lisbon held the ceremony of the "New 7
Wonders Of The World" [3] election, in Luz stadium, with live transmition for millions of people all over the world. Once again, the city
and the country showed the world that they're able to organize world events.
On the 18 and 19 October 2007 Lisbon held the 2007 EU Summit, where agreement was reached regarding the Union governance model. The Lisbon Treaty is due to be signed on the 13
December 2007.
Climate
Lisbon is one of the mildest European capitals. Spring is cool to warm (between 10°C and 27°C) with plenty of sunshine and also some showers. Summer
months are mostly sunny, dry and hot with temperatures between 16°C to 38°C. Autumn is mild and unsettled with temperatures
between 8°C and 23°C and winters are typically rainy, windy and cool with some sunny days (temperatures between 2°C and 18°C),
usually staying at an average of 10°C. Snowfall is a very rare occurrence — Lisbon briefly witnessed snow on January 29, 2006 and January 28
2007 thanks to cold waves from the Arctic that affected Europe in
those days. Before 2006, no snowfall had been registered for over forty years, just some sleety days. On average, there are 3300
sunny hours per year and 100 days with rain per year. Lisbon's climate is strongly influenced by the Gulf Stream.
Demographics
The population of the city proper was 564,477 and the metropolitan area (Lisbon
Metropolitan Area) was 2,800,000 according to the Instituto Nacional de Estatística[4] (National Institute of Statistics). The Lisbon Metropolitan Area coincides with two
NUTS II units, Grande Lisboa (Greater Lisbon), in the northern bank of the Tagus, and
Península de Setúbal (Setúbal Peninsula), to the south, which are the two
subregions of Região Lisboa (Lisbon Region). The population density of the city
itself is 6,658 inhabitants per km².
Like most big cities, Lisbon is surrounded by many satellite cities. It is estimated
that more than one million people enter Lisbon every day from the outskirts. Cascais and
Estoril are among the most interesting neighbouring towns for
night life. Beautiful palaces, landscapes and historical sites can be found in Sintra and
Mafra. Other major municipalities around Lisbon include Amadora,
Oeiras, Odivelas, Loures,
Vila Franca de Xira and, in the south bank of the Tagus
river estuary, Almada, Barreiro and Seixal.
Lisbon is ranked number 1 in the Portuguese most livable cities survey of living
conditions published yearly by Expresso.[5]
Culture and sights
The heart of the city is the Baixa (Downtown) or city centre; this area of
the city is being considered for UNESCO World Heritage Site status. The Baixa is organised
in a grid system and a network of squares built after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake,
which levelled a great portion of the medieval city. The Castle of São Jorge and the
Lisbon Cathedral are located on one of the seven hills of Lisbon, to the east of the
Baixa. The oldest district of the city is Alfama, close to the Tagus, which has made it
relatively unscathed through the various earthquakes.
Other monuments include: the Castle of São Jorge, atop the tallest hill of the
central city, Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) with the beautiful façade of the
Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha nearby,
Rossio Square, Restauradores Square,
Elevador de Santa Justa, an elevator (lift) in
Gothic revival style, built around 1900 to
connect the Baixa and Bairro Alto, the richly-decorated Church of São Roque,
the Baroque and Neoclassical Estrela Basilica, the Manueline Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries) and Carmo Convent.
The city of Lisbon is rich in architecture; Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Baroque,
Traditional Portuguese, Modern and Post-Modern constructions can be found all over the city. The city is also crossed by great boulevards and
monuments along these main thoroughfares, particularly in the upper districts; notable among these are the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue), Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo, Avenida Almirante
Reis and Avenida da República (Republic Avenue).
A view of Amoreiras, the top of one of the hills in Lisbon
The most famous museums in Lisbon are the Museu Nacional de Arte
Antiga (National Museum of Ancient Art), the Museu do Azulejo (Museum of Portuguese-style
Tile Mosaics), the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
(Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, containing varied collections of ancient and modern art), the Lisbon Oceanarium (Oceanário de Lisboa, the largest in Europe), the Museu Nacional do Traje e da Moda (National Museum of Costume and Fashion), the
Berardo Collection Museum (Modern Art) at the Belém
Cultural Center, the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum,
containing the largest collection of royal coaches in the world) and the Museu da Farmácia
(Pharmacy Museum).
Lisbon's opera house, the Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, hosts a
relatively active cultural agenda, mainly in autumn and winter. Other important theatres and musical houses are the
Centro Cultural de Belém, the Teatro
Nacional D. Maria II and the Gulbenkian Foundation.
Partial view of Lisbon, viewed from Cacilhas.
The monument to Christ the King (Cristo Rei) stands on the left side of the river, in Almada. With open arms,
overlooking the whole city, it resembles the Corcovado monument in Rio de Janeiro, and
was built after World War II, as thanks for Portugal's being spared the horrors and
destruction of the war.
Every June there are 5 days of popular street celebrations in memory of a saint born in Lisbon – Anthony of Lisbon (or Santo António). Saint Anthony, also known as Saint Anthony of Padua, was a
wealthy Portuguese bohemian who was canonised and made Doctor of the Church after a life preaching to the poor, simpler people. Although Lisbon’s patron
saint is Saint Vincent, whose remains are in the Lisbon Cathedral, there are no festivities associated with him.
Parque Eduardo VII is the largest park located in the centre of the city, prolonging the main
avenue (Avenida da Liberdade). Named after Edward VII of England who visited it when it was inaugurated, it includes a large
variety of plants in a winter garden (Estufa Fria).
Lisbon is home every year to the Lisbon Gay & Lesbian Film
Festival.[6]
Economy
Vasco da Gama Shopping Mall, at the Nations' Park.
The Lisbon region is the wealthiest region in Portugal and it is well above the European Union's GDP per capita average - it produces 45% of the Portuguese GDP. Lisbon's economy is based primarily on the tertiary sector. Most of the headquarters of multinationals operating in Portugal
are concentrated in the Grande Lisboa subregion, specially in the Oeiras municipality. Lisbon Metropolitan Area is heavily
industrialized, especially the south bank of the Tagus river (Rio Tejo).
Lisbon's seaport by the Tagus estuary
The country's chief seaport and featuring one of the largest and most sophisticated regional markets within the Iberian
Peninsula, Lisbon and its heavily populated surroundings, are also developing as an important financial center and a dynamic
technological hub.
Lisbon has the largest and most developed mass media sector of Portugal, and is home to
several related companies ranging from leading television networks and radio stations to major newspapers.
The Euronext Lisbon stock exchange, part of
the pan-European Euronext system together with the stock exchanges of Amsterdam, Brussels and Paris,
is tied with the New York Stock Exchange since 2007, forming the multinational