Many Ford and Mercury models have 'Torx' or 'star-bit' type bolts which you will need a special socket (or screwdriver, if you're a gorilla) to remove. These are available from automotive stores, or Seers-type department stores. Also, a C-clamp is handy to push the piston back into the caliper (so you can fit the caliper and new brake pad assembly back on to the rotor). A good socket set and a set of screwdrivers are also required.
The brakes on the Villager are as straight forward as the brakes on a 1965 Mercury. Only normal brake tools are required.
The same as any other car. You must remove the heads. This is a major repair that should only be attempted by someone with the knowledge, tools, and skill.
A screwdriver and a 10mm socket wrench.
There is no such thing as a 1987 Villager, I assume you mean a '97. The water pump is in the center of the engine in front, behind and above the crank pulley. To remove it requires that the crank pulley be removed, which may require special tools.
The ball joints are bolt on parts that don't require any special tools to replace.
To replace the brake pads on a Mercury Mariner you will need a few tools. The tools you will need are a large C-clamp, a jack, tire blocks, and a 3/8 inch hex head Allen head socket.
you need the tools to change the disc brake padsand one additional wrench or socket. remove the wheel remove the brake caliper (thing that pushes the brake pads together against the rotor ) 2 bolts remove the brake pads remove the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper carrier from the end of the axle. these will be very tight and hard to turn rotor can now slide off this is very easy
Air tools and PB Blaster.
These are bolt on parts, but you will need special tools like a spring compressor. You will also need to have the suspension realigned afterwards. If you don't have the right tools it might make more sense to have a shop do it.
Standard brake removal and installation. Tools required: Jack and jack stands Tire iron Socket set with 'Torx' or 'star-drive' bits. Screwdrivers C-Clamp (or something to push the caliper back in) band-aids and neosporin. Procedure overview: Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir, block rear tires, loosen (but don't remove) lug nuts, jack up the car and place jack stands for safety (you don't want 3,000+ lbs. of van landing on you). Remove lug nuts and wheels. Remove the caliper mounting bolts and detach the caliper from the steering knuckle. Use C-clamp to push the piston into the caliper. Use a screwdriver to remove the old pads. Installation is the reverse of removal. When done, step on the brake pedal a few times, and check brake fluid level, filling as necessary.
Standard brake removal and installation. Tools required: Jack and jack stands Tire iron Socket set with 'Torx' or 'star-drive' bits. Screwdrivers C-Clamp (or something to push the caliper back in) band-aids and neosporin. Procedure overview: Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir, block rear tires, loosen (but don't remove) lug nuts, jack up the car and place jack stands for safety (you don't want 3,000+ lbs. of van landing on you). Remove lug nuts and wheels. Remove the caliper mounting bolts and detach the caliper from the steering knuckle. Use C-clamp to push the piston into the caliper. Use a screwdriver to remove the old pads. Installation is the reverse of removal. When done, step on the brake pedal a few times, and check brake fluid level, filling as necessary.
This is difficult at best. The easiest way, if you have the equipment, is to just remove the engine from the vehicle. It can be done in the car, too, but will require some dexterity. A lot depends on what kind of tools you have. Getting the exhaust loose will be one of the toughest parts. I'd strongly suggest you invest in a shop manual off eBay or something like that.