BMW

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Have to replace the brake sensors once you change the brakes and the computer will reset itself after a few minutes.

BMWs follow a certain nomenclature in the naming of their vehicles; usually a 3 digit number is followed by 1 or 2 letters. The first number represents the series number. The next two numbers traditionally represent the engine displacement in cubic centimeters divided by 100. The system of letters can be used in combination, and is as follows: i = fuel-injected d = diesel† h = hydrogen g = compressed natural gas/CNG e = eta (efficient economy, from the Greek letter 'η') x = BMW xDrive all wheel drive L = long wheelbase C = coupe c = cabriolet (convertible) T = touring (wagon/estate) t = hatchback s = sport†† † historic nomenclature indicating "td" refers to "Turbo Diesel", not a diesel hatchback or touring model (524td, 525td) †† typically includes sport seats, spoiler, aerodynamic body kit, upgraded wheels, etc. For example, a BMW 760Li is a fuel-injected 7 Series with a long wheel base and 6.0 liters of displacement. However, there are exceptions.[18] The 2007 BMW 328i is a 3 Series that has a 3.0 liter engine. The 2007 BMW 335i also has a 3.0 liter engine; however it is twin-turbocharged, which is not identified by the nomenclature. The 'M' - for Motorsport - identifies the vehicle as a high-performance model of a particular series (e.g. M3, M5, M6, etc). For example, the M6 is the highest performing vehicle in the 6 Series lineup. Although 'M' cars should be separated into their respective series platforms, it is very common to see 'M' cars grouped together as its own series. When 'L' supersedes the series number (e.g. L6, L7, etc) it identifies the vehicle as a special luxury variant, featuring extended leather and special interior appointments. The L7 is based on the E23 and E38, and the L6 is based on the E24. When 'X' is capitalized and supersedes the series number (e.g. X3, X5, etc.) it identifies the vehicle as one of BMW's Sports Activity Vehicles (SAV), featuring BMW's xDrive. The 'Z' identifies the vehicle as a two seat roadster (e.g. Z1, Z3, Z4, etc). 'M' variants of 'Z' models have the 'M' as a suffix or prefix, depending on country of sale (e.g. 'Z4 M' is 'M Roadster' in Canada). Both X & Z vehicles will have 'i' or 'si' following the engine displacement number (denoted in liters). The 'si' (e.g. X3 3.0si) identifies the vehicle as being equipped with the 'sport package' & is 'fuel-injected'. X & Z vehicles only denoting 'i' (e.g. X3 3.0i) identifies the vehicle as 'fuel-injected' and no sport package.

If you leave someone in the car (for example when fuelling) and the ignition is off, pressing "rest" diverts all of the heat from the engine to keep the heating working so they don't get cold.

around the optical lens

rephrase that

Open the glove box and look up inside. There will be 2 white 1/2 turn screws that will let it drop down. There is also a few fuses in the boot on the right hand side above the battery

155 mph

Coupes are more popular amongst the Sporty set, so despite having two less doors, they command higher prices.

If your E46 is equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system, the reset button is located on the control panel below the radio.

i have a 2008 320d m sport edition , the steering locked after having it a few months and it had to be reprogrammed, now with 5,000 miles and 10 months old it has engine noise and is awaiting a new cranck shaft

20min.

BMW engines tend to be fragile. If they've overheated, they tend to warp a head and even crack a block. If a head warps, the head gasket will leak and the engine will ALWAYS overheat. On the other hand, if it hasn't gone that far yet, you could have a problem with the thermostat, radiator, radiator fan /fan clutch (depending on what you have) or water pump. If it's the radiator, a good radiator shop can usually clean/repair it. A stuck thermostat is quite inexpensive and an easy repair. The water pump is a little more expensive. If you suspect the head gasket you can purchase a test stick that detects the presence of carbon monoxide in the coolant. If you detect carbon monoxide, the head is warped.

The light is reset with a smallish BMW or aftermarket device that can be purchased relatively inexpensively. On Ebay, for example. There's a port it plugs into under the hood, then follow the device's printed instructions, which is, push a button, basically. Very easy. Get on with your bad self in that Bimmer.

I know that my BMW 645 CI 2004 has a chain. Not a timing belt. If you have a chain then you change it only if you here noise (rattle) as chain gets longer over the time. Usually you don't have to change on normal car but you may change on 645 as there is a lot of power.

You can check if you have chain or belt by opening a cap where you fill your engine oil.

2 the united states and German

I am sure this is not the proper way to reset the light, but I disconnected my battery cable for ten minutes and it fixed the problem.

facing your vehicle on the lefr hand side right before the fuse box under the hood. depending on year o your vehicle it's either round or square.

Since you are asking this question I am assuming you have the manual transmission. The fill plug is on the passenger side of the transmission and the drain plug is on the bottom. They are 17mm ( this size may vary ) Allen plugs. Jack the car up but keep it even. This means four jack stands. Remove the fill plug first then, with a catch pan underneath, remove the drain plug. Allow all the fluid to drain out, this may take some time. To speed up the process one might take the car on a little spin first so the fluid heats up and becomes more viscous. Replace the drain plug. Using a hand pump fill the transmission with the correct gear oil until it begins to spill out the fill hole. Wait for the leakage to stop. That is the correct level for the fluid. Replace the fill plug. Make sure you research the proper oil for your transmission; there where three types.

There are two tests for your pressure regulator. First pull the vacuum hose. The vacuum hose is the smaller one that goes to the intake manifold. If fuel comes out of the vacuum line the regulator is bad.

The second test is to remove the regulator and check that there can be no reverse flow through it. To do this start your car and pull the fuel pump fuse. Allow the car to run until it dies. This will relieve the fuel pressure. Turn the car off. Undo the bolts holding the regulator down and then carefully pull it up off the rail. Keep some rags around for spilled fuel. Clean the regulator and the blow into the outlet tube, the one that sticks out the top at an angle and is the medium sized one. You should not be able to blow through it.

To re install your regulator or install a new one put a new o ring on the bottom tube and rub some mineral oil or silicon lubricant on it and push it into its hole straight and carefully. Put the hold down bolts into the bracket and torque them to specs in your manual. Reconnect the outlet tube to the return hose and the vacuum outlet to the vacuum hose.

It depends what model, it might not fit different model, which car are you swithing to? I'll tell you if they match.

Since you are asking this question I am assuming you have the 5 speed manual transmission.

Selection of transmission oil is crucial with these cars. If you have the stock Getrag 260 transmission use SAE 80 API GL-4 non hypoid gear oil. The capacity is about 1.3 quarts.

The transmission fill plug is on the passenger side of the transmission. The drain plug is on the bottom. They are Allen plugs, usually 17mm. To refill the oil take the car on a little spin so the old oil will be warmer and thinner. Jack the car up but keep it level. This means using 4 jackstands. Take out the fill plug ( the top one ) off first. Then remove the lower one; have a pan in place to catch the old oil. Let it drain for as long as it takes for there to be no more oil draining from the lower plug. Replace the lower (drain) plug and torque it between 40 and 60 nm ( 30 - 44 ftlbs). Using a pump ( available at parts stores ) to pump in the transmission oil into the fill hole until the oil start to run out. Allow the oil to run out until it stops; the level should be right at the bottom of the fill hole. Replace the fill plug and torque to the same specs as the drain plug.

If the filter has been replaced it's 4.5 liters and if the filter remains 4 liter is enough.

Leave Belts on the pullys use a 32mm wrench turn clock wise, once its the fan is broke loose you can grab fan and spin off.