This involves replacing the hood release cable. You can buy them new from the dealer. Not an easy task however, and I do recomed a professional to do it. Its a hard job.
The year 1874 is in the 19th. century. The 19th. century is from 1801-1900.
As you fail to mention year and engine size, I will assume it is a 3.8 V6. Firing order for the 3.8 is 1-6-5-4-3-2
Using the formula D/T, you get 29 hours and 22.5 minutes
There is a sticker on the inside of the trunk lid that has that information.
No, George lived in the 3rd century and died in about the year 304 AD.
Pull the front cover off of it, Behind the Crankshaft balancer, The sensor is there. a diagram of how to install a creckshaft sensor.
My experience is with a 2002 Impala so this may not apply, however since I had an identical problem and it is a GM product also, here goes: The fuel level sending unit had corroded, bent, contacts. My unit was inside the gas tank and requires quite a bit of work to remove. A very helpful website for this is www.impalahq.com
turn your ignition switch on but do not start and pump the gas pedal hard 3 times turn ignition off and start car the warning should be gone. If not do it again and that should make it go away obviously the mechanic did not reset your oil gauge light it is required just wait the 3 months or run the engine the so many miles it needs to be run.
A faulty starter can present itself in MANY ways:
* pulling too much current. * Only "clicks" then nothing. * Does NOTHING, not even a click. * Starter motor engages but the drive doesn't engage the flywheel. * Turns slowly But then, some of those problems can also be an indication of a low battery, faulty ignition switch, or a problem with the neutral lockout switch.
Troubleshooting requires that you start with an open mind. Recognize that the problem can be from a lot of places and if you just "throw parts" at it, all you're doing is making the troubleshooting process more difficult. Every time you put in an unnecessary part you run the risk of installing something improperly, making future trouble shooting attempts more difficult.
there are 2 large black hoses that come off of your radiator. the one located higher on the radiator (upper radiator hose) goes from your radiator to the thermostat housing. the thermostat housing is a metal tube that is bolted to the engine. the thermostat is located inside of the housing and can be accessed by removing the bolts
The letter 'E'
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Disconnect blower motor electrical connections.
Remove blower motor attaching screws, then blower motor.
On models with A/C it may be necessary to dismount alternator and move away from module.
Reverse procedure to install.
The oil filter in in the oil pan. It is a cartrige type. There is a round 4-5" "plug" that you have to unscrew in the pad, oil and the filter come out when you remove it, yes messy. An oil filter cap will usually fit, or a big pair of pliers.
thanks Gary
As you did not include engine or Year info I will give a general answer.
Look on the top of the engine, most GM products with a bleed system have a small brass pipe thread plug in the top of a black or aluminum casting.
This is the bleed point, loosen the plug or valve and add coolant to the system until it flows from the bleed, tighten up the bleed. Done.
Repeat if needed.
Fuses That "Blow" Repeatedly
Without being able to "hands on" troubleshoot the circuit served by the repeatedly blowing fuse, none of us can identify the specific defect which is causing your problem.
Therefore, the following generic answer can be applied to any electrical circuit, whether in a vehicle, or in a building, whether direct current [DC], or alternating current [AC].
Fuses [and Circuit Breakers] are safety devices designed and installed in electrical circuits TO PROTECT the conductors [wires] and other components from short circuit conditions and/or overload conditions which cause an extremely large flow of electrical current [measured in Amperes], which causes overheating of the conductors that results in damage to the insulation and the conductors.
And in a worst case scenario, the probability of a FIRE which could destroy the vehicle, house, or other structure in which the circuit is located.
When a fuse or Circuit Breaker [and replacement fuses, or repeatedly "tripping" Circuit Breakers] "blow," especially if it happens repeatedly, is an indication of an UNSAFE CONDITION in that circuit, usually a short.
The fuse or circuit breaker is doing what it was designed, intended, and installed to do; that is to protect the conductors and components of the circuit which it serves.
The proper "fix" for this issue is for a qualified technician, who knows what he or she is doing, to troubleshoot the involved circuit, find and identify the defect, and make proper repair [s], BEFORE replacing the fuse again [with the properly sized fuse or before resetting a circuit breaker].
Some ignorant few people will suggest installing a larger fuse or breaker to solve the problem, BUT that will only increase the hazard, not correct it.
Do not follow "bad" advice by installing a larger fuse in a misguided attempt to correct the problem. To install an oversized fuse would almost guarantee damage to the wiring and the probability of an electrical system fire.