Chevy Cobalt

Oil honestly depends on your weather and mileage of the Cobalt. If you live in a colder area, you want a lower weight, say not 10W-50, you want 5W-50 due to the nature of the beast, it'll start easier. I run 5W-50 during the wintertime here where it goes from 30-60*F and run 10W-50 or 10W-60 during the summertime. Synthetic or natural is pretty much your only options between oils, I switched from natural to synthetic at 20k miles or so, but you can switch whenever you want, just make sure you do it all at once and drain as much out as you can. Or if your a fan of Castrol like myself, I went from Castrol Natural to Castrol 50/50 Blend to Castrol Syntec for my conversion. But be warned that the Synthetic molecules are smaller than the natural molecules, and therefore you have an easier chance for discovering a leak, not a bad thing mind you, but its just somethign to keep in mind.....

The recommended oil for the 08 cobalt is 5w-30 and that's good for all weather conditions, you will get better gas mileage sticking with the recommended weight oil.

The above is answer is true, however if you live in an area like me that regularly exceeds 105*F outdoors, the higher weight oil is what you want for lower operating temperature..

It depend on what kind of oil you use, and where you take it. I spend 20 bucks becasue i buy my own oil (Synthetic Mobile One $11.00 at walmart) and my filter cost about $8.00 at walmart and i do it myself. if you take it anywhere it can cost from 25 to 65 dollars hope this helps

Yes, it does and it is more than likely located in the fuel tank.

press the lens on the light.

Here's how to remove it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH2qZPIK7jQ

You don't, you take it to the dealer if you have a problem with it. That car has a recall because it has had a lot of previous problems. The power steering is bad.

If the OBDII is not turning on it may be due to the fuse that controls the OBD and the lighter, Check this first. If the OBD is Turning on, and the codes are just not coming up, they may be Transmision codes

Pull off the silver trim pieces. They're held on by clips. You have to pull really hard and you feel like they'll break but they won't. Make sure you pull from the ends and not the middle. Under the trim pieces are screws that you need to take out.

If you have the regular cobalt you need to use 87 octane gas and if it is the ss with the supercharged engine you use high test.

Open the hood, by the fire wall in the back on the drivers side is the Brake fluid reservoir, unscrew the cap and fill it with the appropriate DOT brake fluid to the line.

It is suppossed to be 195 degrees......but the fan will not come on until about 218 and on high about 223....according to Chevrolet this is not a problem....they say that unless the fan fails to come on that it will be ok and no damage to either the engine on trans will occur.

I do not agree but my 2006 Cobalt has over 300 K on it and many many times the temp is up in the 200 plus range for short periods of time so maybe they are correct.

I have a 2006 Cobalt and about 6 months ago my power steering went out. There isn't really a way to check it besides taking it to a mechanic and having them hook it up to the computer. It's expensive to replace the power steering in these cars. It cost us $600 just for the part because you have to completely replace the steering column. It's really a pain. Hope this helps!

That is the temperature at which the cooling fans are coming on, this is common for newer cars. It is not a problem, and should not cause you concern.

the simplest way is to turn the ignition key to the run position. do not start the vehicle.

then, at the same time, press the lock and unlock for 15 seconds. turn the ignition off and remove the key. your keyfob should be functional at this point.

use the same process after installing a new battery in the keyfob.

under the hood

With enough money and fabrication, anything can be built.

The owners' manual will say to check your driver's side door for the information, because the answer depends on the manufacturer and type of tire installed, which in turn depends on your exact model and options when purchased. After-market tires purchased will probably differ slightly from OEM.

Should be directly underneath the block, unless you have something really unusual.

At great expense, considering that you will probably do a lot of damage trying this.

There's a little access hole covered with a rubber piece just under the sterring column neat the ignition key. It's a plunger electric activated piece of caca. You can replace but I think it's a watse of money. Just remove it and pull the spring out and replace... slide to unlock position and your ready to roll. Thanks,

Wes

Yes you can get it serviced anyplace just keep all your receipts to prove the work was done should the need arrive that the dealer would need to see them in case of warranty work.

Blower motor resistor defective

GM Parts Direct prices a right side mirror at $32 and a left mirror at $45, motors for electric mirrors are an additional $40-$45

Follow the supercharger tubing from the right side of the unit to the box where the air filter is, unsnap the hooks around the edges and lift it up, from there you change the air filter.

You might think I'm being smart, but you change the oil when it's dirty. Check it every now and then. Most Synthetic oils now-a-days are good for about 5000 miles, coventional oils it's best to replace every 3000 miles. But the best rule of thumb is to change the oil when it's dirty. When you check your oil use a white paper towel to wipe the dipstick, if it's dirty you'll see it, you'll have to use your good judgment.