My 1990 Trooper has a 2.6 L 4 cylinder engine, has 162,000 miles, and has always averaged 23 mpg. 16 city/21 highway.

disconnnect the battery (disarm the delco 2 lock first if you have it) then jack up the fornt end. the starter is on the driver side. remove the wires then there are just 2 bolts to remove then just slide it forward to clear the transmission bellhousing and pull it out

On a 1993 ford ranger 2 wheel drive 2.3L. Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting. First locate the starter on the bottom passenger side (under the hood), then remove the positive and negative wires connected to it by either removing the clip or unscrewing the 1/2 inch nut. Then remove the three (3), 1/2 inch by about 4 inch bolts with a socket or whatever. once those three bolts are out, you can just pull the whole thing out and then put the new one in, bolt it in and connect the wires the same way ou removed them.

Peace to your nines. I wouldn't want them to heat up. I don't wish that on anyone, kid.

yes they will. if you don't have the z71 flairs then they'll stick out a bit if the back spacing is more then 5"

265-75-15

Light Green

buy new sensor from local parts store (mine ran me like $57 for one ....there is one on exhaust manifold and one right before the cat i believe......just unplug it get a wrench and loosen it careful not to strip it and make sure to buy plug and play o2 sensor

only one on rear drive shaft.

wiring diagram for mass airflow sensor

It is inside of the fuel tank.

5 5

0.042 in

before doing anything disconnect the negative cable from the battery of the car. the starter for a 99 maxima is located under the air filter housing and air intake duct, you have to remove both to even see the starter. Be careful when you remove these, they all have connectors that control important air sensors. Unhook, or unscrew anything attached to these parts before pulling out.

once you have these out you will need to reach 2 bolts, i recommend an extension for the socket-wrentch of at least 8 inches. you will also have to disconnect the negative and the aux connectors from the starter.

clips the purple wires in the back of the radio

Go to this web page that gives step by step instructions. http://www.towman.com/carentry/lockout_12_04.html

I have not found one. There once was a post online stating it could be done by pressing and depressing the gas peddal and turning the ignition off and on in the right sequence. Tried it several times and it didn't work. AutoZone sometimes will do it for free. No harm in asking.

(Alternate method) This will work if there only was a temporary problem like a loose gas cap or whatever item that caused the problem was corrected:

1. Lift Hood and set brake for security.

2. Disconnect both positive and negative cables to the battery using a #10 open and closed end box wrench.

3. Since you did that you may as well clean the terminals (optional).

4. Reconnect the cables to the battery.

Re-start vehicle. Your clock and radio settings will need to be reset.

This method should clear only erroneous check engine lights. If light stayed on there is a larger issue that needs repair before engine or smog control damage. If the check engine light went out but after driving for 10 to 20 minutes the light came back on you can try the method one more time. If the light goes back on after that then there is a problem that will requires repair.

Many part stores or auto repair facilities will use their portable hand held computer to diagnose the problem. Depending upon the auto repair facility they may not charge you a fee but hope to get your business. It takes all of 10 minutes to do in the parking lot.

Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak- check under the hood and under dash area

My 04 does the same thing, never used to, it's an intermittent problem for me. Start with the resistor panel replacement (located by passenger firewall), if that doesn't work, its' probably the blower motor itself.

or

ChevyGrief writes:

The problem sounds more like the blower motor resistor connector and/or blower motor resistor. I replaced the cable that had burn marks on two terminals, making a poor connection. The problem has not returned since last July.

Purchased from RockAuto

GM Parts list:

Resistor - p/n 15218254 $8.59*

Connector - p/n 15306069 $30.70*

Wiring harness - p/n 89019124 $20 *

or

ssgjurista wrote:

It's easier to replace with the glovebox out of the way. gmpartsdirect has the harness and resistor as a package deal.

Their part number is PK15218254.

or

2005 Colorado 4 x 4 , my fan would only work on high (4) as well, for a while 1-2&3 worked intermittently the stopped. I found on my truck that the wire harness for the blower is in a spot where passengers hit it with their feet. I could wiggle this connection an it would work on all settings again, I fixed it by making the connection better and electrical tape- I hope your fix is as simple.

The signal wire should be Tan. You should have a Yellow, Black, and Tan Wire. The Yellow being you MAF Sensor Signal. The Black being a Low reference voltage. Then your Tan your IAT sensor signal.

This is how I did it.

Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

I removed the right drive shaft. This made it possible to reach the starter from under the vehicle.

Then I removed the brace that bolts to the block and intake manifold.

Then remove the electrical connections on the starter, one with a 12mm wrench from under the car, the other is a plug you can reach from the top (if your arm is skinny enough!).

Then remove the starter top bolt from above. It threads into the starter from the transmission side.

Then, from under the car, remove the starter bottom bolt.

The starter can then be removed from under the car.

As many a repair manual has advised: "Assemble in reverse order of removal."

Good luck!

It is a 6 lug

6 x 5.5" (139mm)

This is the same for ALL Colorados and Canyons.

I would recommend buying a high torque mini starter when replacing the stock starter(stock mini starter 92-95 mustang). It is very easy to install, you will need to run a new power wire from the left terminal of the start solenoid (facing the firewall) to the 5/16ths terminal on the mini starter (smaller terminal). Putting in the mini start you will notice a huge difference in space making it easier to run long tube headers and clearance for heat transfer.

basic tools needed:

floor jack

(2) jack stands

3/8 drive ratchet

3/8 drive extensions

3/8 socket

1/2 socket

9/16 socket

optional tools: 6 pack of favorite beverage

basic steps are:

1) Disconnect battery negative terminals.

2) Jack up vehicle on a level surface and place vehicle on stands. you can lift one side at a time or use the K-member to lift the front all at once.

3) If your 79-93 Mustang is equipped with a V8 engine, the starter will be located on the passenger side rear of the oil pan and is bolted to the front of the transmission. Using the 1/2' socket, remove the Mustang Battery/starter cable bolt located on the forward end of the starter and set it aside.

4) Next grab your 9/16 socket and remove the lower starter bolt and set it aside.

5) The top starter bolt can be somewhat tricky to remove and there are several different methods to do so. The easiest way to remove the top starter bolt is to use a few feet of extensions and work from the front of the engine.

Install:

Installation is the reverse of removal. Hold the new starter motor in place to get the upper and lower bolts started. With this application, there is no need to use a shim, just make sure that the starter bolts are good and tight(do not over tighten). Reconnect the starter cable to the front of the new starter using the 1/ 2 bolt (or follow instructions for mini starter). Also make sure that the contact surfaces of the starter cable are clean. Reconnect the battery and again make sure the terminals are clean and making a good contact. Before taking the car off of the jack stands, put the key in the ignition and bump the starter over to ensure all is working properly. Once this has been done, it's time to carefully set the car back on the ground.