Chrysler Pacifica

Usual first sign is a check engine light with a code P0420.

Usual first sign is a check engine light with a code P0420.

Get a pair of thin tweezers, grab the coin and pull out. It may work. I did it on my BMW and was lucky.

I had a popping/rolling sound whenever I would take off or slow down in my '04 pacifica. I took it to a dealer and they said my motor mount was cracked in 2 places sending a vibration throughout the frame of the vehicle. Replaced the motor mount and the popping.rolling sound has gone away.

Chrysler Pacifica Timing Belt. 3.5 Liter

This is a very difficult job.

· First jack up the car and put jack stands under for support.

· Remove air filter box.

· Remove front tire and inner fender.

· Put a floor jack under oil pan with a small block of wood and put a light amount of pressure on the oil pan.

· Remove front engine support.

· Remove serpentine belt and the two idler pulleys on the front engine cover.

· Remove three bolts that secure the power steering pump. These are accessed through the pulley holes. Remove the three small bolts that hold the power steering reservoir.

· Remove crankshaft pulley. This requires a small three jaw puller. The pulley is a press fit (no keyway)

· There are approximately 20 assorted sized fasteners holding the aluminum cover on that are removed next. One is behind the power steering pulley you removed earlier.

· Now the cover should come right off.

· Using the crankshaft bolt, turn the engine clockwise until the mark on the crankshaft is at Top Dead Center. The crankshaft TDC indicator is at approximately 1:00.

· The camshaft gears also should be lined up with their marks. These are at approximately 12:00.

· Now remove the idler tensioner. It is secured with 2 bolts. The tensioner pushes on the idler pulley pivot bracket.

· Remove timing belt.

· Always replace water pump and fluid.

· Always replace idler pulley.

· Reinstallation of the timing belt is next.

· Be sure all three timing marks are still in the correct spot.

· The manual states you should remove the valve covers and release the pressure on the valves. While this is optimal, if you are careful it is not necessary.

· The tensioner must be reseated by using a bench vice and pushing the pin back into its base. Don't just quickly crush it in a vise. This has to be done slowly. Then the plunger must be secured with a small Allen wrench or pin.

· With the idler pulley pivot bracket "NOT" installed, thread the belt around the other 4 pulleys.

· NOW THE TRICKY PART

· Starting with the rear camshaft pulley seat the belt and route belt under water pump and over the front camshaft pulley.

· Be aware that you will probably need to move the front camshaft with a wrench (18mm), a little during belt installation. This must be done with care, because moving it too far (either way) will allow the spring pressure of the valves to move the cam. USE CAUTION and move slowly. Having your fingers pinched is a definite possibility.

· You must keep pressure on the belt where the idler pulley would be, with your left hand, or the belt will slip on the rear camshaft.

· With the belt taut between the two camshaft pulleys make sure it is taut down to the crankshaft on the non idler pulley side.

· If at this time all the marks are still lined up and the belt is taut, have someone else hold the belt where you were holding it, while you install the idler pulley pivot bracket.

· Once the idler pulley is installed, the belt won't jump teeth.

· Now install the tensioner and remove the Allen wrench or pin you used to hold the plunger.

· If at this point all the marks still look correct, slowly turn the crankshaft (clockwise) with a socket, one full revolution.

· If the marks don't line up you have to start over.

· If the timing marks still look good, turn it one more time to be 100% sure everything is lined up.

· If they still look correct, you are done with the hard part of this project.

· Now install the aluminum cover.

· You will need a longer than factory bolt to press the front pulley back on the crankshaft. Do NOT hammer on the pulley for installation. This can severely damage the crankshaft bearings. Do use the factory bolt for final securement of the front pulley.

· Everything else is just the reverse of disassembly.

Once again this is a very difficult job in tight quarters. If it is not done properly, severe engine damage will result. Only do this job if you're confident in your skills and have the right tools. Hope this made sense and helps someone. Good Luck MGL

P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire

Symptoms.
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues

Cause
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM

The Fix
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.

yes,

Power take off unit. Takes AP4 transmission fluid.

The 3.8L has a chain. The 4.0L has a belt.

DOT 3

On a 3.8L engine, the EGR valve is at the back of the engine on the right side, near the top of the engine. It is held on to the engine by two small bolts. Attached on the side of the EGR valve is a metal pipe held on to the EGR by two small bolts. If you remove the EGR, be careful not to drop any of the bolts down in the engine as you will never find them. Experience talking here.

Fairly easy to replace but make sure you get the right one for your sized engine. I got mine at NAPA for about $70.

Check behind the second row seating. There's a storage area, but you have to pull up on it from the sides. I have to lower the seats to get access to it in mine.

I don't believe there is a fan relay in a Pac. The fan is controlled by an electronic circuit inside the air box, right behind the glove box. If your fan is stuck on "High" like mine was a few months ago its an easy fix and costs about $100 for the part from the dealership (the dealer was the cheapest). All you have to do to access it is empty out your glove box, bring it forward past the stops by pressing the sides in, and you will see an electrical connector right behind it held in by 2 10mil screws.

Pacifica Miles are stored in the BCM.

r134a

On the 3.5L it is under the housing where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine.

On the 3.5L it is under the housing where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine.

Open tailgate/liftgate and find the two bolts holding the brake light assembly.

Remove the bolts and wiggle the assembly out.

Turn the bulb bracket until it pops out and just pull the bulb itself out .

Look at the new bulb its just a little bulb with no plastic if i remember it correctly. Kinda like a dome light bulb where it's all glass.

Could possibly be a bad lifter.

No Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Failure

Windshield urethane, and you must stretch the dash as far as you can. Use Duct tape to hold it in place until it dries.

Good luck.

I have an 04, but imagine it would be similar: take off your wheel, remove the axle cotter pin and nut cover. You'll need a 32mm socket to remove the axle nut (be prepared to have either an air hammer or heat source to do this...there is a LOT of ft lb torque on that nut). Disconnect the ABS sensor lead, located in the wheel well behind the plastic fascia toward the fender. Remove the brake caliper unit. There are two retaining bolts that allow you to remove it without too much disassembly. You will need a 15mm box end socket to remove the four retaining bolts of the bearing unit. You will NOT be able to get a socket on all the bolt heads due to the close proximity to the axle bell. There's a lot of aluminum parts, so don't go crazy banging anything. The box end wrench should give you enough grip to remove it with assertive pressure. Replace in reverse order.

Underneath the chrome trim above the license plate. Remove the 4 or 5 screws that hold the trim in place and the chime will be the round speaker attached next to the license plate light.