Check the bulb or bulbs. If not the problem, check to see if they have a good ground.

To many to try and go thru on this site, but your Dakota should have the routing on a label that is on the under side of the hood. If not, my Chiltons book in the Emissions chapter starting at page 4-20 has routing diagrams for all of the engines.

If you have never done it, I suggest taking it to someone. However, if you have the tools and want to do it yourself. You will need to jack up the car first. Remove right front wheel. This is so you can get to all bolts on the front plastic cover. Remove the bolts, remove the cover/covers if 2 piece. Losen the timing belt tensioner, move away, take off belt, replace, tighten pretty tight with hand. Make sure no slack is present!But not extremely too tight. Retighten all bolts and covers and install wheel. NOTE: If timing belt was broken this is a whole different story. Do not try..Unless you know how..

Purchase a donor car for parts. Otherwise the parts will cost you more than this 17 year old car is worth. My advice is, sell this car and buy one with a manual transmission. You will be money and time spent ahead.

I have a '94 shadow that blew the lighter fuse which took out the radio as well. Changing the fuse seemed to help the lighter but the radio still does not work. My guess is that the ground is bad. In your case that may be as well. A way to check is to find an alternate ground, Door Screws, etc. and test the lighter independently for power. If it has power that way then it is definitely a ground problem. As these have plastic dash boards, nothing will work if it is not properly grounded to the chasis at nearly every point. Hope this helps.

check your coil this prvides spark but it could be a bad or faulty coil that is not providing enough spark to run had the same problem

What size motor and is it an automatic or a manual?

if it is a manual...check the long plastic band in the gear shifter. That is what pulls up on safety latch when you pull up on the release lever right on top of the shifter. Mine came off and I was not able to put it into reverse. It only took 2 minutes to fix it. Good luck.

The Haynes Repair Manual says to use 5W 30 engine oil if you have over a hundred thousand miles. for an 88 shadow there is a rubber plug on the drivers side of the transmission, about halfway up the casing. you know if you need to add more fluid if you can remove the rubber plug without anything leaking out. If it seems dry, stick your finger into the hole and try to feel the fluid level. to add more fluid to it you have to use a funnel with a rubber hose attached to it and gravity feed the oil into the transmission.

Night time.

anything is possible, but that would be almost impossible with out rebuilding the entire suspension and frame work of the car

You are right. A friend of mine did it and it was horrible. You would have to rebuild the entire front frame and everything. For all the work you would have to do, it really isn't worth the hassle. Alot of the parts you have to machine yourself or re-machine the existing parts. There are plenty of add-ons available for Dodge shadows that can give you in excess of 300 horses. Cheaper to go that way. besides..with gas being $4 a gallon, a V8 would beat the point of the economical lil car the shadow has been known for.

the easiest way is to go to any automotive parts store and they can show you your give you a copy of an origanal aftermarket diagram.

It could be a bad oxygen sensor or the wiring to the oxygen sensor. This is not the only possibility. Could be a computer issue. not sure what else.

If the spark plugs and O2 sensor are all black, then the injector may have failed.

What car has an L as a shift letter... for automatic its Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive (or Over Drive if your car has Over Drive), 2 and 1... there is no L and for standard its gear 1 2 3 4 5... Is your car making a whinning noise, if so it might be the Torque Converter... if its not then the trans itself might have died on you... was the car slipping in gear and stuff before this happend? fluid change would be a waste of money if your not sure if its torque converter or transmission just acting up... my car was slipping, i went and got new fluids, gasket, even a tranny additive to help it shift better (didnt work) then the car ran fine for every bit of 4 days then converter died... are you using the correct fluids for the car, the Chrysler fluid that's recommend is ATF+3 or 4... they no longer make ATF 3 so you will have to buy ATF 4 for your transmission, if you was buying Dextron or Mercon hoping to say alittle money then that right there could have distroyed the transmission, the ATF+4 has additives right in it to help improve shifting, Dextron or Mercon doesnt. The price of ATF+4 has went down, it was about 6 dollars a quart and its now about 3 a quart so that's good right there... hope ive helped you have... Good Luck with your Shadow, i have a Spirit with a 2.5 and its transmission died all thanks to the torque converter.

If the car is equipped with a 4 speed automatic electronic transmission then it could be a simple problem. Second gear is the "limp in" mode when a

problem is detected by the control module. This could be a sensor problem, such as a PRNDL Switch. The switches are located toward the front of the transmission just above the oil pan. Check for a loose connection at both switches as this is a common occurrence, especially for intermittent problems. On the other hand this could be due to an internal parts failure.

where are the timing marks on a 94 2.5 dodge shadow es

POERT stands for Port of Entry Recruit Training

Typically an ES model has some nicer features to it.

Depends on which engine you have. On the V6, it is located just an inch to the left of the thermostat. Look for a single wire that connects with a right angle boot. And in case you do not know where the thermostat is located, look at the top of your engine. Find the hose that connects to the top of your radiator. Follow the hose to the engine. The hose connects to the the engine with a right angle connector. to the left of this connector is the temp sensor.

It is screwed into the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine.

Not right away but can cause failure with coolant system components over a period of time that could produce a overheating condition. Very corrosive to metals as well. Recommend 50% water mixture to dilute anti freeze for proper protection.