Not right away but can cause failure with coolant system components over a period of time that could produce a overheating condition. Very corrosive to metals as well. Recommend 50% water mixture to dilute anti freeze for proper protection.

I just replaced it on my daughters 94 Shadow and it's likely to be in the same place. Remove about 6 Phillips head screws around the perimeter of the lower dash panel under the steering column (and one inside the fuse panel cover), and lower it to floor. It was located in the upper right hand corner of the exposed area attached to the A/C duct. Disconnect the 2 wire plug. Remove the flasher module (by pulling downward). The replacement part will likely not have the the small oval tab at the top for mounting (I used the handymans secret weapon) so it wouldn't rattle around inside the dash. a zip-tie may work.

They freeze.

No, you don't have to remove the whole dash panel. Just remove the glove box and you will see the blower moter behind it. Just remove the cover and the vent linkage and the motor wil drop down once you have the screws removed.

i'm not sure for that transmission, but i know for my trans, (GM 3T40) the band adjustment is the piston itself. if you look at the shaft on the piston, you might notice a couple of lines cut out on it. If so, that's the adjustment.

You have to take off the panel just under the steering wheel and in the upper right corner of the panel that you just took off, the flasher should be in there about the size of a marshmellow with three prongs. It should be just up from the left of the hot and cold control.

chances are...probably not...the 2.2 and 2.5 for the most part used the same tranny, but the years are way to far apart. Dodge kinda went this for interchange.....84-85, 86-88, 89-90, 91-93, 94-95...or somewhere about there.

Front is easy, just replace hub

rear is pressed in

Bottom, rear of tank. Hit it while someone is cranking.

Starter is located in the back of the engine attached to the transmission, it is held in with 2 bolts and 1 nut on a stud... disconnect the battery before you start or else you might get some good sparks... getting to it can be a real knuckle buster... good luck

I think the relay is on the right fenderwell inside the engine compartment. there may also be a fan relay, an air conditioner relay in a row with each other. There is what they call the auto shutdown switch that controls the fuel pump. It is the first relay (from the front) on the drivers side fender.

behind the bumper and grill

Simple Answer: The Ignition lock. There is a metal tab located on the tumbler assembly, which when turning the key [to start the car] presses on a switch [which turns on a relay; which kicks in the starter] This tab most likely broke off. Replace the tumbler assembly

2 computers in 87 shadow, 1 behind kick panel on passenger side, 1 next to battery onder hood of car

check the light bulb same double element bulb for both lights

there are 2 valves on the large refrigerant line on the front passenger corner of your engine compartment, one large and one small, freon is always added through the smaller of the 2. Pick up a kit for it at auto zone

My Shadow did this and come to find out the timing was a bit off. It ran fine one day and gradually got worse and worse and I lost power. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump and a gazillion other things as recommended by the dealer. Then a friend of mine that has a Dodge Daytona had the same issue. He said that over time the bolt holding the distributer in place had got loose and threw off the timing. I adjusted the distributer a bit and re-tightened the bolt and have not had a problem since.

My 93 Dodge Shadow is doing the same thing, I have a sneaky suspicion it is the fuel filter. I will fill you in after I have replaced it. Squirrlegirl Classic symptom in most cars is a gradual loss in top speed as the fuel filter clugs. Don't forget a clogged Catalytic converter.

right above oil filter

Not sure what you mean...it looks like a chipboard with circuits and stuff....if you are referring to trying to find it....

The computer on my 89 Shadow is right behind the drivers side headlight. You will need to remove the battery and if you follow the air intake hose from the engine, it should go to a odd shaped plastic box with a wire harness on it. Inside this box is your computer. Dodge put it in there for cooling purposes and for the air intake sensors. At first glance I thought it was dumb because it could get wet/moist if you drove in the rain/fog/snow. But to this day, it hasn't gone out.

Im not sure if your vehicle has a speedometer cable or if its a digital type thing with all wires and an electric motor opperating your SpeedOMeter but if it is a cable driven one, then just disconnect the cable from the speedometer from inside the vehicle... raise the vehicle if needed, I think its easier to get it from top, if the vehicle has the A413 transmission, remove the 10mm bolt holding the Speed Sensor in because the SpeedOMeter cable is running threw the middle if it, it does have a round O Gasket on it so it will be tight removing it, but it will come out with alittle wiggle and install the new the same way as you took it off.

front driver side under the hood , over the wheel, well right in front of battery there are four square black boxes in a row that are about 2inches square and in most cases it the second from the front.email me at james_henderson@comcast.net and ill send you a picture from my car if you would like.

The initial air intake is a small hole in the driver's side front fender. From there it goes into a box that filters water then on to the air filter and down through the bottom of it into the motor. The MAF sensor is part of the intake on the motor.

You have a manual, right? It is located beneath the steering wheel. Look for a panel labeled "fuse access". Remove the panel. Look for a fuse labeled "16 Radio". There it is

If you've got a 2.2 L single-point fuel injection engine and you're not getting power to the boost pump then you need to drop the tank and replace it. Confirm this first by listening for a whirring noise out of the tank when you first turn the key to ON. If no sound and all relays and fuses are good then lower the tank and check for voltage at the pump connection. If there is voltage, the pump is at fault. Replace it. A OEM pump will run you about $140-150, depending on your source. No voltage in the feed line? Find the break and repair it. Retest. Hope that helps