Flooring

Yes and no. If the old linleum is peeling and seems loose then I would pull it up. If however the old linoleum is still in good shape and isn't peeling then yes, but steps must be taken. if it's on a cement floor then you need to coat the floor with a bonding agent or use a higher performing modified thinset. If the linoleum is on a wood subfloor I'd just staple metal lath right over the linoleum and tile it. I would use a bonding agent that most specialized tile stores sell. since there are so many just go to a tile store near you and ask them what they have.

As long as there are no big lumps of glue. You are supposed to lay rippled foam mat, which will take care of some uneven-ness -

Answer

Still, you will want to repair cracks or any areas where the floor is not level before putting down the mat and then the floor.

You can lay tiles again but make sure you buy proper mortar. You can install any kind of floating floor such as laminate, engineering wood, interlocking vinyl tile.

Your main concern should be structural integrity of existing floor, if its not falling you can do pretty much anything

No.

If you want to lay tile on top of anything other than concrete, you need to install a backer board like Hardi Backer. If the laminate floor is a floating floor (ie: Pergo) then you will have to take that all up first and then install your backer board.

If you don't install a backer board and the sub floor underneath the tile is able to expand/contract or shift, the tile may break and the grout will crack.

For conventional 2x framing practices the accpeted nail is a 16d nail. The length ranges from 3.25" to 3.5" and has a large head. If nailing through treated material it is recommended to use a galvanized nail, however some treated materials react adversely with galvanized materials so it is best to follow manufacturers recomendations when selcting a fastener. In general a good rule to follow is at least 2/3 of the nail or screw should enter the adjoining material for any project.

It depends where the area that you are wanting to get at, is but a scraper is usually the most common way. A scraper is a piece of hardened steel, usually about half the size of a standard letter envelope and the edges have been filed in a way so that there is a bur on the edge that can be used to scrape off glue etc from timber. You will obviously scrape off layers of timber at the same time but if it's done properly you won't be able to tell (i.e. don't remove too much otherwise you'll leave a dent in the timber where you've worked). I don't know of any way to remove glue from wood grain without removing some of the timber itself (I'm a fine furniture maker). The scraper is held upright on the flat surface of wood and pulled towards you (you might need to look up pictures on the net). Scrapers can be bought at most woodworking/tool shops. All the best!

This process can be done but it is involved and will take some time. First, clean the existing floor. Then lay down and secure a moisture barrier. Then you can install the flooring. However, prior to laying out the floor make sure that you allow the laminate flooring to acclimate to the climate of the house to ensure that it takes well.

Yes, but only on the joints that butt a wall or cabinet.
Joints where one piece of floor butts another must have the tongue and groove left on them.

The following works on VCT tile glued to a cement floor - primarily in a space less than 900 square feet (any more than that I would recommend at least looking into an air-powered scraping tool): The flat end of a heavy crow bar can slide between the tile and floor serving to remove the VCT. It's a lot of work (repeated chiseling motion is necessary - but this seems very effective). Another tip is to use a heat gun on VCT tile which is glued down really well. The heat breaks the glue-bond down effectively. Overall, this is hard work, hard on your hands, wrists, and potentially your back too. In particular my hands and wrists have gotten quite sore doing this. I thus recommend using weight-lifting (well padded) gloves perhaps underneath work gloves (or just pick up some very durable work gloves). Anything to alleviate the shock to your joints and hands will help you accomplish a lot more with a lot less pain. Lastly, absolutely wear eye protection of some sort - you'll need it as the process will kick up things into your face.

In most cases yes. You should still follow recommendations by each manufacturer because they could vary. Make sure that the exisiting flooring is not lifting or curling in any areas. Use a recommeded laminate underpad that suits your circumstances and then follow the instructions on the box.

I work for someone part time who has over 20 years experience installing and finishing hardwood floors, and honestly the best thing to do is hire a professional to do it. The tools available for rent to average consumer will take you over a week to do something we can do in one day, and also get your inferior results. I'm a big fan of DIY, but this is one thing where the pros have a distinct advantage of knowledge and equipment. You can do it, but if you want done quickly and properly (with good results), leave this job to the pros. you don't!!! or you get a profesinal! good luck!

1.75 sqf. Will probly be the cheapest you find, but more than 2.75 sqf and your paying to much. I install for a living and these are prices that stand most anywhere you live.

I have ceramic tile flooring in my kitchen and one of my tiles has broken. How do I go about getting this fixed?

Topps Tiles was created in 1963.

The "official" answer is that a certified, licensed mold remediation specialist must handle it. If you need to do it yourself, however, wear a dust mask, rubber glove, & eye protection. A strong solution of household bleach and water will kill black mold (any mold, for that matter.) You can mix up a bucketful & scrub with asponge or rags. You will need to run fans & possibly a heater in the area to thoroughly dry it afterwards. The most important thing to do about black mold is find out where the source of moisture is that allowed it to grow in the first place. Until the source is stopped (leak repaired, AC pan cleaned, etc.) the mold will keep returning no matter what you do. This can be tricky, hence the need for an expert. Black mold frequently starts inside walls where moisture is collecting, so there may be some demo & rehab involved. If you can find the leak & fix it, the bleach cleaning should solve the problem. Otherwise, you may need to call a mold remediation company. Good luck!

I have seen them painted, and they look awful. And, if it's on the floor, the paint will generally wear off.

Each individual strip of hardwood flooring is nailed to the sub-flooring below it.
You're not going to be able to do that with a terrazzo floor.
If you attempt to glue plywood down to the floor first, it's going to end up buckling.
The temperature and humidity on one side of the plywood will be different then the other because of the cement.
If you really want to do this, you're going to have to put a vapor barrier over the cement,
build a deck over the vapor barrier, nail plywood to the deck, and then run the hardwood over that.
It's a lot of work, a big expense and the floor in that room is going to now be 3" higher then it was.
There are several kinds of laminated flooring systems that "float".
They just sit on top of the vapor barrier and they're under 1/2" thick.
Some of them have real hardwood vineers and look just like traditional hardwood floors.
You might want to consider one of those.

I cant believe you want to cover terrazzo, can't you just have it restored?

Hardwood, yes.

Laminate , yes.

Tile, I wouldn't. you can put tile over it if you put backer board over it, or if you have 3/4 inch subfloor underneath and the vinyl is glued well you can use a superflex motor from lowes. but the backerboard is the best choice

1. Remove as much of the tape as possible with a plastic edge or scraper.
2. Spray WD-40 onto the residue and allow it to sit for an hour or more.
3. Scrape away the residual adhesive with a plastic edge. It should slide right off with practically no effort.
4. Wipe the area clean with a clean dry cloth.
5. Repeat the process for stubborn areas.