Flooring

Rub it with Goof Off, then gently slide a craft knife blade under the edge and lift it. Most times it will come off easily as this flooring has a very hard glossy finish. If a residue mark is still apparent, rub it with Goo Gone.

Hardwood floors have two main costs. The cost of the flooring, which ranges from about $4.50 per square foot and up. The cost of labor which typically runs between $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot. There will be added costs if the contractor has to tear up an old floor. So measure the room dimensions. Say your room is 18 ft by 15 ft. Then calculate the square footage as: 18 x 15 = 270 sqft. Add about 30 sqft for waste(about 10%) so figure 300 sqft in wood. Then multiply by some reasonable number for the wood price & labor. Say $5.00 per sqft for flooring and $4.00 per sqft for labor = $9.00 per sqft total. Then this job should cost about $9 x 300 = $2700. The numbers above are for standard 3/4" thick hardwood flooring that requires nailing. Another alternative is a much thinner wood (about 3/8" thick) which is about $3.00 per sqft. It is glued down. In my opinion its a very good alternative if you're on a tight budget. Labor should be about the same.

depends on where you are

how much to be done

sand or screen

stain or just clear finish

call around & let them give you a quote, will be much better than using some wild guess from here

Carpet is made on a big machine that threads the fibres together by weaving them in and out all along the width of the machine. As it goes up and down the machine rolls it up onto a plastic or cardboard tube.

Possibly, you should speak to the manufacturer or check their website as there might be good reasons why it is qualified as wall only.

1)The glaze might not be strong enough for flooring and could wear off.

2)Since this is a ceramic wall tile it could crack when used on the floor.

yes

If you can pull up the carpet to get to that area, then you can screw or nail through the offending/sqeaking floor board into the subfloor and then put back the carpet. If you have a basement try to find where it sqeaks from below [while you are in the basement, have someone step on and off the offending spot]. Once you know which board(s) is loose, screw a screw into it from the floor joist, through the subfloor, into the offending floorboard. Hopefully, this will pull the squeaking floor board down against the subfloor, and make a tighter fit and stop the squeek. Or, from the basement, screw a piece of 2x4 onto the floor joist, and then screw through the 2x4 and subfloor,into the loose floor board, from below. Or, gently drive a shim between the sub floor and the floor joist to see if that works. That all the thoughts I have for you. Hope they work.

Nope, It will cause the ;aminate to buckle

No, it will wear unevenly. If the floor is solid (ie not warped floorboards) and the uneven bits slight, you can spread leveling compound (a sort of wet cement slurry) over the uneven floor to obtain a flat surface.

If it's springy at an edge the skirting trim will pin it down.

If it's springy in the middle, there could be something under it, so it has to come up or it will eventually pertrude and destroy the board.

Sometimes the board just needs to be forced in place and the floor will straighten and become more solid.

I would think the heating grid would have to be under the sub floor. It is was in direct contact with the laminate, even with the foam insulator, the floor moves just a little bit and over time could wear through the heating element.

A wooden floor is actually easier to care for than vinyl. The main thing to remember is that water is not the wood floor's friend. Water, if left in puddles to dry, will eventually raise the grain of the wood and the floor will become a dirt magnet.

Waxing is a good thing for your floor. Vinyl coatings are not especially recommended. Paste wax, while it is labor consuming, is the much better option. The upside is that you do not have to wax but about every six months with paste wax. The natural erosion of the wax will quickly show on walking areas, so this is where a heavier treatment is best. Obviously, the corners of the room will not need more than one coat.

To prepare for paste wax, read the manufacturer's directions and rent a mechanical "buffer" from your local rental agency. The machine will not take very long to operate, and will give a much better shine to your floor than the back breaking hand buffing. Clean your floor with a barely damp mop to let it dry as quickly as possible. Apply the paste wax in a sweeping arc and let it dry to a hazy condition, then use the buffer to get a hard, water resistant, high polish to your wood.

There are a very few liquid waxes on the market that are recommended for wood floors. One of the oldest and best is a product called "bowling alley wax". It is easy to use and is specifically designed for high traffic use.

Other than the critical use of wax, a simple dry dusting mop will keep your wood floor in excellent shape for years. A note of caution! DO NOT use furniture polish on your wood floor. While the products in spray cans would seem convenient, they make your floor very slippery and impossible to walk upon. They have to be removed...a very tedious job.

A well applied wax to a wood floor shouldn't have to be stripped but about every three to five years as opposed to a vinyl floor which needs to be stripped every six months. The wood floor gives beauty and ease of maintenance to your home. Enjoy!

I need the thickness dimension of 12 ply plywood for floor.

There are several choices here and a lot may have to do with what your local lumberyard has available. Treated wood is used very often for decks, but is not usually available in T&G. Redwood is available in T&G but is rather expensive and does draw upon our redwood forest reserve. Another choice, and the one I reccomend, is knotty yellow pine. It does come in T&G boards and if it has a lot of sap in it, it is pretty rot resistant. It is not as easy to work with as redwood and the drawbacks are many. The biggest advantages are cost and the woodsy look of knotty pine.

Okay, now we know what we are dealing with and we can start. First, make sure your framework is level and square. A slight slope to the outside is a good thing. From 1/16 to 1/8 in. per foot is good. Since this is T&G there won't be any place for the water to go unless you have a slope and the water will just pond. I hope you have a cover on top or this would not be a good idea. But, I will still assume you know what you are doing, (with the rain and stuff).

Layout your boards and stagger the joints. Use stainless steel screws. Don't paint it! The pitch will just bleed through. Use a good grade polyurethane thinned with turpentine to seal. Don't use thompson's water seal, it's too expensive and it sucks anyway. You will have to do the sealing process a few times over the months and years. You'll know what to do.

The above answer is correct. DON'T USE THOMPSONS WATERSEAL. I put it on my deck and it quit working after 6 months. I complained to the paint dept. at Lowes and they told me they get that all the time. Many many complaints. I was told Olimpic Maximum was much better.

The best rated electric floor sweepers are usually those made by Dirt Devil and Bissell. In specific, people seem to like the Dirt Devil Swift Stick and the Bissell Perfect Sweep. The Bissell is a bit more money, ranging at around $45, while the Dirt Devil is only about $20.

mr clean magic eraser Another Answer: I found this out by total accident. Deep woods OFF, mosquito repellant will remove permanent marker off of anything, walls, plasticware, wood, paint, skin...try it.

it's because the excess wax attracts more dirt and doesnt repell it.

Missing data - you also need the height. If the room is the shape of a rectangular block (this is fairly common for rooms), and all dimensions are in feet, just multiply length x width x height.

There are many places where one can find laminate flooring on sale if one checks often. Some of these places include home improvement stores such as Lowe's and Home Depot. The flooring store Lumber Liquidators also has sales rather often.

Assuming that a low pricetag is more important than aesthetics, an online wholesale outlet is probably your best bet. However, your local area may have a flooring company that "will not be undersold," so you may be able to get better quality flooring at a good price by showing your local dealer what you find at the wholesaler.

You are better off ripping out the tiles first. If you really want to lay the hardwood over the tiles, first lay down 3/4 plywood so you have something to staple the new floor to. The ply is glued down with PL, and then screwed into the tiles/sub floor. You will need to pre drill with a masonary bit, and screw in every 12 inches. Seems like more work than ripping the tiles out. And adds an extra 3/4 + tile height + hardwood - how will that transition to other rooms?

A vacuum cleaner is not the best way to clean hardwood floors so there is no best option. hardwood floor surfaces are best brushed with a fine haired natural fibre sweeping brush, which pushes debris ahead of it while holding it. If a vacuum cleaner may be used to suck up the collected debris once it has been collected into one place, then ANY machine that can suck it up through a tube will do.

First you must measure the shower pan area, then you need to make sure that your liner has enough room to cover at least 8 inches above the floor base for at least 3 corners of a rectangular or square shower pan.

The liner is sold in a seven foot width or a 6 foot. You fasten the corners with copper nails by nailing them to the studs whereever they need to be supported.(stay high with the nails). The nails can be bought at any plumber supply house.

Then for the corners you must fold inward, facing the corner to the back (like a sheeve on a shirt). When folded in, you'll see what i mean.

Then for the stepping area, you must cut out the shape for the step, preferably using a box cutter. You might need help to hold the liner straight and then nailing it down to the step. Cut any excess liner out the way.

Then there is one more step. You will need shower pan liner glue, which is sometimes green and it smells like wet spray paint. You will need to cut out some small or big triangles out of the liner to put near the step corners. You will need to lay them a certain way so they can cover the edges you cut with the box cutter. Lay the glue on the corners and also on the triangles-- let them dry for 1 or 2 minutes and then lay them correctly. Make sure that you don't leave any cracks where water can seep through.

It's kind of funny but the water will never reach that high, only once in its life, and that's when you test it for leaks. You will need a plug: a 2 inch test plug should do it. The plug should be an air type, by which I mean you might need a small pump. Fill the pan with water. LOL p.s you only need like 4 buckets of water, try not to let the shower water run, because you might spray it all over, thinking you have a leak.

That's it--you're done. Let the plug sit over night or at least 6 hours to see if any water has drained or leaked downstairs.

you can use it right after the grout dries (usually at least a day). . .let the grout cure for at least 30 days before you seal it though

when you use the shower before the grout is cured, make sure you don't leave any standing water