Furnaces

Call the furnace guy and have him fix it.

No, gas is the best heating fuel if you consider price. The only exeption is, are you building a new structure or changing the heat system in an exsisting structure and have to consider new line overages. New gas service is normally installed by the gas provider at a minimal cost unless the distance from the main is over a certain distance. Call you service provider for this information.

Serial #

You follow the MFG recommendations, if they are not followed and you don't have a receipt that is was done then the MFG could void your warranty.

Try connecting compressed air line to the fuel line and blow back to the tank.

try disconnecting all the lines and blow it all out yourself use a long wire to get threw the tanks valve undue your filter and just clean it out completely takes about 15 minutes if you know what your doing

Electric furnaces are rated in Kilowatts. The following formula will let you figure it out. Watts = amps x volts. For eg. a 10 Kw furnace draws 10000 watts. amps = watts/volts. 10000/240 = 41.6 amps. If your furnace differs from this example, just plug in your wattage and you will have your answer.

If your located in Michigan contact FWA (flint warm air) located at 24051 Gibson Dr. Warren, MI. 48089 Unit Price is About $1700.00 if your buying 12 or more you save about $70.00 per unit. If You Need A Good Install or repair company contact Union Heating & Cooling at 313 377-5738 these guy did my 25unit Apartment Complex... Clean Professionals. "hope this helps"

Russian Designed, Twin Hearth Furnaces are the modernized version of the Older Open Hearth Furnaces which now comprise two adjoining furnaces side by side to alternately use up the sensible heat of the gases generated due to the steel making process being carried out in one furnace to heat up the scrap and other materials in the other furnace till the first one is tapped and then the entire process is repeated for the next heat that is to be carried out in the first furnace utilizing the sensible heat of the second furnace. This cycle is alternated and the result is to cut on time of production and minimizing heating up costs.

In India these types of furnaces are still being used at State Owned Steel Authority Of India Limited's Bhilai Steel Plant and IISCO Steel Plant.

They are followed by Ingot casting route and the Blooming and Billet milling plant.

Sounds like it's cold where you are. The term is hoar frost. Knock the frost off with the furnace turned off. Check the pipe where the furnace exausts. You may need to extend it a bit to keek it from recycling to the intake. If you extend it, insulate it also. If it is caused by snowfall being sucked into the air intake, consider increasing the size of the pipe with a bell reducer. This in effect reduces the velocity of the air. In worst case situations I have used a "T" after the increaser and then two 90's pointing downward. lc

Remove the pilot assembly from the furnace and clean it up. You need to be careful when putting it back on at the gas valve so as not to crossthread the screw. Take a thin wire and clean the pilot orifice, then use a brush or sandpaper on the thermocouple.

Best answer; hire a mechanical/plumbing expert or contractor. This is a job if not tackled a by a pro, could cause your family great harm, brain damage, or death. Remember, you dealing with sealing out carbon monoxide, a oderless, tasteless gas. If not sealed out properly or if the material and sealing compounds used degenerate at anytime, the CO could easily enter your home and over time harm people and animals. If you have to ask this question, chances are you're not qualified or skilled enough to tackle this alone.

This is one of those questions where ones vested interest in duct cleaning machines might preclude an honest answer. The facts are that once any dust particles, etc. that have made it through your air filter system, have fallen to rest in your ductwork (very small total quantity), the chances of them ever becoming airborne again is not likely. The exception to this rule would occur if a change of equipment caused an increase in air velocity (speed and quantity of air passing by a given spot in the ductwork). If you are concerned with airborne contaminants, my suggestion would be to invest the duct cleaning funds instead into a good filter system. While electronic systems claim high efficience numbers, a 4" pleated filter with an electropheretic enhancer installed upstream of the filter will provide the same filtration efficiency without the inherent service issues and expenses as with electronic units. You would change the filter about once a year and be done with it. Let's face it, you go in and out of your house allowing outdoor contaminants in constantly. The best fix is to deal with them on an ongoing basis. If you choose to have a 4" filter unit installed, have a good contractor do the work and have him "seal" the ductwork on the return side of the furnace or air handler. This insures that any particles cannot bypass the filter. While installing the filter, consider having the contractor install a 4"-6" duct routed to the outside air and tapped into the return air upstream of the filter. Have them install a manual damper (for adjustment purposes). This type of setup provides two critical features. The air inside your home is worse for you generally speaking, than the air outside. 1) This setup allows you to bring fresh air into your home whenever the blower is operating. (Many will run blower on low speed 24/7) 2) This outside air will positively pressurize your home, reducing the quantity of dust and contaminants introduced through door openings, etc. This type of sutup is required by many local building codes and "Super Good Cents" home construction guidelines. Many manufacturers have "whole house ventilators" available. These setups use four ducts to provide constant fresh air introduction to the conditioned space. These are not cheap however and are tough in a retrofit situation. Advantages include their ability to transfer a majority of the heat from the exaust stream to the supply fresh air stream. Inquire of your contractor whitch setup might benefit you most. Sorry for the longwinded answer. Hope it helped though. lc

The thermostat that is set higher will turn the system on if two thermostats are wired in parallel. You can use any number of thermostats on the system. What you probably want to get is a zone control system. Each room gets heat regulated as desired because the controller manages not only when the furnace turns on but also when dampers open to deliver heated air to the various rooms that are being controlled.

Ask any dealer it goes by square footage. We just bought 2 3 years ago

It is a term to describe ones condition of having an incredibly high metabolism. For example, personally I can eat anything I want and not gain a single pound, without working out mind you, I consider my body to be a metabolic furnace due to the fact that my metabolism is practically just burning away all the calories that I eat. Similar to a furnace which melts away all the impurities of raw metal into new and purer types of metal.

THE PHRASING OF THE QUESTION IMPLIES OIL IS THE FUEL USED. IF OIL, ON THE SIDE OF THE PUMP IS A BLEEDER. PUT A SHORT HOSE ON THE BLEEDER NIPPLE AND CRACK THE FITTING ABOUT 1/4 TURN CCW. PUT THE BURNER INTO A CALL FOR HEAT TO TURN THE BURNER MOTOR (WHICH DRIVES THE PUMP), ON. WITH THE HOSE IN A SMALL CAN (CUT THE TOP OFF A COKE CAN), RECYCLE THE BURNER TILL ONLY OIL COMES OUT, NO AIR BUBBLES. THE BURNER CONTROLLER WILL ONLY ALLOW THE UNIT TO OPERATE FOR SO LONG BEFORE THE SAFETY TRIPS. LET IT COOL (1-2 MIN) BETWEEN ATTEMPTS. PUSH THE RED BUTTON TO RECYCLE THE BURNER CONTROL. CLOSE THE BLEEDER WHEN DONE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS. LC

A Furnace works by heating the power plant with the fuel provided you idiot...

how else do you think it works??

Almost always 120 volts

Air conditioner. One heats the interior of the house; the other cools it.

Furnaces are lined with materials in various formats but basically must possess an inherent Resistance to hot environments . These REFRACTORY materials might also need resistance to certain chemicals , gases or even molten metals . They are often of alumino silicate composition but can be pure compounds such as alumina .

If it's blowing intake-temperature air, either you've got the fan alone switched on or the heating part isn't working for some reason. If it's a gas furnace, the pilot light may have gone out, or the gas may be shut off somewhere (at the furnace itself, at the emergency shutoff for the house, or possibly at the main inlet).

If it's blowing actually COLD air (colder than intake), then you've probably got central air and you've somehow managed to turn on the air conditioner.

i have a 20 year old rheem gas furnace with an electric ignition. when i turn up the thermostate, the pilot starts up but that's it. it doesn't do anything else. What could be the reason for this?

A limit switch is a switch that will shut off a burner at the highest temp that is allowed. Example:If the limit is set at 200 degrees, the inside of your heater will heat up to that temp, then the burner will shut off. The blower motor or circulator pump will move the air or water around your house. When the inside of your heater cools down anywhere from 15-25 degrees, the burner will come back on & the cycle repeats itself over & over until the thermostat is satisfied.

PURCHASE A 1" PLEATED FILTER IN EITHER MED. OR HIGH EFFICIENCY GRADES. SAME AS A "RUUD" BRANDED FILTER. LC