91 octane at sunoco (low premium) bring a calculator and estimate how many gallons you need. It will work. You will have to walk in and pay in cash.
Probably a leaky FPR diaphragm or bad MAP sensor reading.
If bad FPR diaphragm replace the fuel pressure regulator. This will also fix the misfiring, excessive fuel consumption, catalytic converter burning up, and rapid engine wear.
If MAP sensor, replace sensor and/or hose to sensor. May also fix: check engine light on, hesitation on acceleration.
Front door and rear panel speakers are both 6 1/2" PDE
YOu will need to remove the lower panel of the dash board, It houses the ash tary and cigarette ligter. there are four Phillips screws holding this panel in place. remove them and move your shifter into gear to pull the panel down and oaway there will be a wire connecter for the cig lighter you will need to uncouple... now you will have access to the underbelly of the car stereo. there will be one or two small Phillips/1/8th inch screw/bolts to remove and your head unit will slide out quite easily.
In my 2002 si, I just made 200,000.
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If the engine has cooled down, then yes, the high idle occurs first and then as the engine becomes more efficient at burning fuel, the engine slows down. The onboard computer gets information from the two oxygen sensors located in the exhaust. The sensors report to the computer how well the engine burns the fuel and how well the catalytic converter "cleans" what is burned. When the engine is started, the engine is burning less efficiently at lower RPM's. The computer can tell this from the data it receives from the oxygen sensors (and to a lessor extent, the other sensors as well), so the computer is programmed to add more fuel because while cold, the engine runs more efficiently at higher RPM's until the engine is warmed up. This fast idle is about 1750 RPM's and will drop to about 750 RPM's when the engine is burning fuel efficiently (and cleanly). There is some debate about whether a vehicle should be warmed up before driving. Some say the vehicle's computer compensates for the inefficiency of a cold engine, and therefore, can be driven immediately. Further, this idea of driving immediately is thought to be good for the engine by heating it up more gradually and therefore avoiding the problems of damage due to sudden temperature changes. However, there is a line of thinking that the engine was designed to operate at a "warmed" temperature range with consistency, performance, and long life. Indeed, the smog equipment operates better at higher temperatures, and that makes the engine run more efficiently, using less fuel, and costing less money. The amount of waste of a cold engine is 80% higher than with an engine that is warmed up. Furthermore, an engine that is running at high RPM causes the transmission stress when engaged, not to mention the brakes. And the transmission is VERY EXPENSIVE to repair. Since the engine was designed to run at warmer temperatures, I would recommend warming up the engine for about 2 - 3 minutes before engaging the transmission. I do not recommend letting the engine get "hot" though, as this can cause problems when done repeatedly. If the engine was warmed up and shut down for a short time, upon restart, the RPM's probably will not rise more than the normal 750 or 800 RPM's unless subjected to subzero temperatures. Most likely, the normal temperature for your engine, when warmed up, is just before the half-way point (about midway). Bottom-line recommendation, on a cold day (
my van did the same thing and I first gave it new plugs, wires and checked the coil to make sure it was working then I looked under the distributor cap and the rotor was fried so I got a new one and it cost around 11 dollars and the van was off and running..
your gears are grinding fu!
Os sensors are always in the exhaust. Look either in the exhaust manifold or right after the exhaust manifold. HTH
Front seating area, passenger side, under dash, mounted behind kick panel
In my research I have found both 2612lbs curb weight and 2606lbs. curb weight.
My sources were, theautochannel.com, and Wikipedia.
It means: Oil & Filter change and a Tire Rotation
The cubic capacity is a measure of engine size. Cubic capacity is the total volume of the engine cylinders taken by piston movement (piston stroke). Apart from performance, it is one of the parameters of a combustion engine. it is the size of your engine block. for ex. a 305 has three hundred and five cubic all together.