Jaguar X Type

Because you are an idiot! Need a little more info... Because you are an idiot! Need a little more info...

Here's a quote from another member doing the same job you might find useful bro

Jim

"My experience is that the front disks usually need replacing at the same time as the pads, but the rear disks will last for 2 sets. Easy to check the disks, as you are no doubt aware, by how big the unworn ridge is at the edge. Front pads and disks are a doddle - standard technology. Rear brakes need the piston to be "wound" back in, with pressure applied, so that the handbrake mechanism gets reset OK. There's a special tool needed (try a Ford dealer) although I did mine with a big hex key from a central heating radiator installation kit! I've not changed the rear disks.

When doing the rear pads, be careful to note which way round the two notches on the piston are facing, although you can tell afterward from the marks on the back of the old pads (as long as you've kept them separate). Mine had the notch facing up on one side and down on the other, from the factory, but it doesn't seem to matter - it'll make more sense when you get it apart. The full instructions for the rear brakes are:

1. Remove clip holding hand-brake cable.

2. Unhook hand-brake cable end from bracket.

3. Remove bolt at 12 o’clock on rear of calliper (a rubber boot covers the bolt shaft)

4. Swing calliper down (towards the rear of the car)

5. Pop out old brake pads.

6. Push in and rotate piston on calliper to retract it (use needle nose pliers or a special tool)

Left side - anti-clockwise

Right side - clockwise

7. Align notch on piston with mark on calliper body.

8. Pop in new pads.

9. Swing calliper back in place.

10. Re-install bolt on rear of calliper at 12 o’clock (note that Jaguar recommend replacing the bolts with new).

11. Re-attach hand-brake cable end to bracket.

12. Re-install clip on hand-brake cable.

Good luck."

If you can't remove hand brake cable, then remove both caliper bolts slide off the caliper and this will enable you to get to thepiston.

Ford Dealers carry the Orange colored Antifreeze for Jags

I purchased a used Jag X-type

several years ago; it was a 2004. Very clean and well cared for vehicle, ran well, good looking car for sure!

The first night I drove it home, it was apparent to me there was an issue with the headlights. Since I had bought the car used and "as is", I knew I had no recourse so I set out to solve the problem on my own. Took it to my rock star mechanic, who honestly can fix any problem on any car....except

this. Long story short, there is no fix for the dim headlights on a Jag. If a higher watt bulb is put in, it will melt the assembly and burn itself out very quickly.

End of the story goes like this....a

month ago, husband was driving at night (which we tried to limit, due to the light situation) and did not see one of those "traffic directing medians" in the road, the ones that sit about six inches high and are triangular in shape. This one was about twenty feet long at the widest point. We were going about 35 mph and just didn't see it due to the crappy headlights, hit the thing and basically tore up the entire undercarriage of the car. Totaled the car, damage is more than 8600.00.

Sorry to babble on about this but just wanted to post as a word of warning. I've always been baffled how this headlight problem isn't considered a safety issue! If you check online,

it's clear there are many, many complaints about this issue. I can't help but wonder how many other (former) Jag owners have had accidents because of the sub-standard

headlights.

Sweet looking car, but not worth it if you have to drive after the sun goes down.

Open the Hood (Bonnet), look on the front edge right above the headlights, you will see a hole above each light, with a recessed Phillips screw inside. use a small Phillips screwdriver to adjust the verticle aiming.

eryhuolkio'

erm yes

Trouble code P1155 means: A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction

I give up. How come?

You must disconnect and remove the battery, to the left side of where the battery sat on the bottom, there will be a short black plug that you can pull out, there is where you would fill the tranny fluid. But you will need a thin nosel funnel to pour the fluid in to prevent spillage. The refill neck is about 1 inch tall with no dipstick. Make sure you are using the correct fluid type, I found that Castrol multi import works fine but double check compatibility for your model year.

Take it to a mechanic shop. Preferably local

about 30 grand new..

pull the light swithch once for front twice for rear that puts both on

i dont understand what you're asking i dont understand what you're asking

Cabin Air/Pollen Filter Replacement

Tools required - One pair needle nose vice grips set to an opening

of about 3/8'' or 10mm (what I used), or needle nose pliers, or a

small screw driver (last resort).

Part - Jaguar P/N 02C2S8622. The filter came in the usual, fancy,

green leaper marked box. Inside the filter had a lovely F*rd oval

logo...Which makes me think there may be a P/N cross reference

potential here.

1) Open the bonnet

2) Remove washer jet hose from the clamp on the black cowling, just

under the hood strut (Passenger side for LH drive vehicles. Not

sure about the UK RH drive...)

3) Gently prise the (5) Pin screws holding the front of the black

cowling to the metal lip of the fire wall. These pin screws have a

round base with four expanding clips that pass through the cowling

and the metal lip. There is a square head in the middle of each,

that, when lifted, allows the clips to contract, which then allows

them to be pulled away. Caution - these are plastic bits. If you

want to re-use them - be gentle ! (I think a flat screw driver

would work to lift them, but one should be careful not to scratch

anything when prying)

4) The filter rests opposite the intake vent on the driver's side

(opposite the grooves in the cowling directly in front of the

driver's side wiper arm). Gently lift the cowling from beneath,

starting on the passenger side, in the corner near the hood strut

mounting. Apply Gentle Pressure until the hidden trim pin ''pops''.

5) Continue moving from the passenger side towards the driver's

side, gently lifting the cowling, until another (2) trim pins

have ''popped''. I found that this allowed adequate clearance to

access the filter. Besides - one would need to remove the driver's

side wiper arm to continue any further.

6) Gently lift the cowling to access the filter, which is mounted

against the fire wall. Rotate the hinged filter holder (Shaped like

a ''U'' - about 3''/75mm long) on top of the filter housing. Rotate

up, and towards the rear of the vehicle.

7) Pull the old filter away.

8) Install the new filter, noting that the flow arrow should point

towards the rear of the vehicle.

9) Re-install in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to pop the

cowling firmly back into place. No problems re-aligning the hidden

trim screws.

Total time - about 10 minutes. It would go much faster now that I

know where everything is.....

removing rear rotors 2005 x-type

Is it an automatic? There is no dipstick as transmission is sealed. If you remove battery then on top of trans is Allen screw. If you pull drain plug on bottom of pan then you should dump 7 quarts fluid. Add new fluid (Advance Auto knows what kind it is nothing special just old Dex III Mercon) via Allen plug on top.

Look - by the time I added fluid I was short 3 quarts and the trans was shifting hard into 3rd (solenoid sticking). You have no method to avoid over fill as there is no dip stick. The old "add fluid until you see it in the hole" will overfill for sure. Then you will leak all over the place.

I drained and then topped off with 7 quarts store brand and ran for a few hundred miles to flush. The sticky solenoid got WORSE. I drained the dirty and added 7 quarts Castrol with the $10 Lucas stuff and I am thrilled! No more sticking solenoids, trans shifts great, and no mystery about the Jap transmission.

Fancy synthetic fluids are great, however, I got great solution to my issue right now. The only reason to use "special" trans fluid is if you want to forget about it. And if you own a Jag then you know that maintenance is something you better get used to.

Oh and the X has 135,000 miles and still running strong!

It's Just under 7litres.

Google XK8 Oil Capacity for specific figures and the correct oil to use.

Malcolm Sayer designed the Jaguar E Type V122. The Jaguar E Type V122 is considered to be a very beautiful car. Various E Type cars have been given the names "Model n", where n is 1, 3/2, 2, and 3, depending on how old the cars are.

yeah, most x types i know have 17" alloys inckuding my own, there isn't a great range of 5 stud alloys around to support the fitment so look around wisely

If you do it yourself and buy parts online you can do it for less than 200.00

hi have you sorted the problem out yet....its driving me nuts !!!

Thanks

If the noise is similar to that of loud tires it more than likely that the wheel bearing hub or hubs. Sometimes if the noise goes away entering/exiting on a ramp it will definitely be the fore mention.

my jaguar xtype is beeping, and now my brake lights don't work when my headlights are on. Do I need to replace a fuse or reset the rear sensor?

Thanks

Jasmin-