Mazda Millenia

lots of places. most common would be the oil pressure switch, located right above the oil filter

10w-30 normal operating temps, 5w-30 when operating below 32 degrees continually.

i have never done a starter, but to get to it, you gotta pull the battery and the battery tray. then you will see it. fsm says to also pull the intercooler, dunno if that is necessary. looks fairly straightforward to me.

on top of the fuel tank. open the trunk, remove the carpet. you will see a round plate, gold, near the ski door. unscrew/remove the plate, walla. here's a hint. pull the back seat, and go in from there. way easier.

all millenias have the fuel filter above the fuel tank. if you remove the trunk mat, you will see a round access door(gold) close to the ski door. remove the plate, which is held in by screws, and you will see the filter. the best way to gain access is to pull the back seat. you can do it thru the ski door, but i always pull the back seat, then you have more than enough room. it only takes about 10 minutes to remove the back seat, and it makes the filter an easy job.

jack up the car, and support with jackstands. pull off the wheel. unbolt the caliper and tie it up out of the way. now the disc can come off. if it is stuck on there, you will see a couple of threaded holes, these are 8 mm, get an appropriate sized bolt, and screw them in there. as they are screwed in, they will lift the disc off of the hub. make sure your new rotors have these threaded holes, the buttco discs dont have them.

open the trunk. remove the carpet. see that round plate by the ski door? it's under there. if you are going to change it, i suggest you remove the back seat, it will be a lot easier because there will be way more room. if you have arms with a couple extra joints, you can go thru the ski door. or, you can lie on your stomach in the trunk. i like the "remove the back seat" method.

ngk 3741(pzfr5f). do NOT use pzfr5f-11. -11 means the gap is 1.1mm, WAY to big

it is easy to recycle, because all you have to do is put a can in the recycling bin or even use a recycling skip.

The reley connection is loose and the wiring contact is on and off...

Probably burning oil on the engine block, typically from a valve cover gasket or loose Filler cap seal.

Are you parked and just getting in ?

Or do you mean already running.

I can however tell you that it is NOT a timing belt.

M

the front...

Genrally, it has to do with the VSS or Vehicle Speed Sensor. This is located on or near the upper portion of the transmission on the passenger side. If you remove the battery tray and air intake, you can reach it from under the hood rather than crawling underthe car. It is onlt a few inches long and has a bevelled gear on one end(red). It is held in with 1 bolt. This little device will play havoc with your car shifting and excellerating. Its about $180 at the dealership. Make sure they dont order you the speed sensor for the wheels (ABS).

These keys are lazer cut keys. I had to order mine from the Mazda Dealer. They used the VIN number to order it. Took about 1 week and cost about $80.00 bucks!

on the millenia missfire, check your catalytic converters it has 3 chances are one or more has fallen into pieces in the pipe

where do people come up with guesses like these? random miss on a millenia is most likely electrical. definitely NOT cats. if you have a 2.5, check your ign wires, spark plugs, and ign distributor. if you have a 2.3, check plugs and coil packs

White and stinks - Head Gasket - $$$$$$

White and wet with no real smell - Cold damp weather, normal

Blue - Fuel mixture too rich - Half a dozen reasons

Black Dry Soot - Bad news - Engine or Cat Conv Failure

Black Oily - Worse news - Engine

The manual indiated of 4.2L w/ oil filter replacement and 4.0L w/o filter replace, based on my 02 millenia 2.5L.

remove the plastic cover that says miller cycle engine on it. right about where "engine" is, you will see it. it has a gold dashpot with vacuum lines

Frst take out the old one if it is broken,... (other wise leave it)

Then you want to save the bolts. Then call a guy to help you. I like using Mexicans because they are cheap. Then put in a new one. If you want it to stick better, put glue inside.

in the tank

Disconnect the ground wire on the battery, wait five minutes and reconnect the ground wire. The light will not come on unless you have another "fault". Note: make sure you know your radio's security code and how to enter the code before disconnecting the battery's ground wire.

It will come back on if the problem Persists.

Most likely however the cause is ...

The Millenias and their Commonwealth cousins the "Xedos" all suffered a common defect resulting in MOST CEL issues. This engine configuration typically results in the need for replacement of 1 to 2 O2 sensors and / or the DREADED Knock Sensor embedded deep in the Manifold assembly. Mine ran 3 years with this CEL on due to the cost of labour to replace. The sensor was only 165 bucks while the labour to install was nearly 800.

I will admit once it was replaced I was not only legal again for the Emmissions test, but the thing ran better than it ever did PLUS I got nearly 2 points to my highway Mileage.

Now the codes are confusing on this because two of the O2 sensors share the same circuit and the code wont necessarily identify WHICH o2 is actually bad, that unfortunately is hit or miss. The KNOCK sensor code is separate and distinct however but all of this results in a costly set of repairs.

Good Luck

first, log the date of the codes, then erase them. they may stay off for a long time. if they do, and then come back, that means your precats are dying. each time, the interval will be less and less. when it gets down to about a week, change the precats. some will say change the post cat sensor. this rarely works, and is not worth the effort.

Start by checking the transmission fluid level. If this is good then replace the transmission fluid and filter. If it continues it needs transmission work.