Mercury Villager

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the transaxle bell housing. It may be partially obscured from view by the exhaust crossover tube.

Since The Villager is of unibody construction, there are only a couple things that can be considered "subframe bushings". Sway bar bushings (front and rear), rear leaf spring bushings, and the most likely, control arm bushings.

You will need to completely or at least mostly remove the inner plastic wheel well. Once that is out of the way, unplug the connector from the lamp. Remove the lamp by giving it a quarter turn.

I suggest you buy a repair manual. This is a complex operation that would take many pages to describe.

If the vehicle is old enough to require cleaning the egr valve, you will be better served replacing it with a new one, giving your vehicle another 8 - 10 years free of egr problem. It involves quite an amount of labor to remove the egr valve, and 1 or 2 years later you are again faced with same problem. Better replace it at once, otherwise, look elsewhere for how to clean it.

I just replaced egr system (egr valve, egr solenoid, and egr vsv) on my 2001 Toyota Camry and am getting ready to do the same for my Mercury villager 1998.I have read other posts that state that check engine light goes off after replacing the egr valve.

Hyacinth.

Replace the transmission computer. Located under the center console.

According to the 2001 Mercury Villager Owner Guide :

( 75.7 litres / 20.0 US. gallons )

If your 1998 is similar to my 1999, it's fairly easy and you'll spend about 30 minutes if you're handy with screwdriver. Read the entire instructions first, so you'll have everything you'll need on hand.

Place the vehicle on a flat area and set the parking brake. Chock the wheels. Use the tilt steering wheel control to move the steering wheel to it's lowest position and lock there. Insert your key and turn far enough to be able to shift gearshift to 1st gear (the lowest position). Use a short #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws located above the instrument panel. On the left side of the dashboard, remove the small panel with the headlight and dimmer control. I could do mine with my fingertips and some moderate pressure. You can unplug the wires to this control with minimal effort. Find the release tab on each, depress it and firmly remove each connector without putting too much strain on the wires. Make a note where each connector went. Remove the 3rd screw holding the trim piece in place. Carefully remove the trim, it's plastic, and you may also have to pull out the center trim piece overlapping the right side of the instrument panel trim to get it to come out. There are 4 electrical connectors on the right side of the instrument trim, find the release tab on each and remove. These are also keyed to only fit the proper connector, but you might want to label them to avoid trial and error later on.. You can now completely remove the instrument panel trim piece.

There will be 4 black #2 Phillips screws holding in the instrument cluster. Remove those with a magnetic tipped screwdriver to avoid dropping the screws into the nether regions of the dashboard. Once those are removed, you can carefully manipulate the cluster forward and lean it forward. If all you are doing is replacing light bulbs, you don't have to disconnect the connectors and remove the cluster completely. There are typically 6 larger black "twist-off" bulb holders that need a #194 bulb. A quarter turn in a counter-clockwise direction will release the holder. The bulbs pull straight out and the new ones push straight in. Only do one at a time. Place the bulb holder in the appropriate hole and turn 1/4 turn clockwise. Repeat for the remainder of the bulbs with the black holders.

There will be approximately 12 much smaller bulb holders with a type 37 bulb. I've found that only my local Napa parts store sells these, so get a dozen of them ahead of time. Replace each bulb one at a time like the larger ones. There are typically 2 bulb holders that contain LEDs which you won't need to remove or replace. Once all the bulbs are replaced, you're ready to test and reassemble.

Position the instrument cluster back onto the mounting posts, but don't replace the screws yet. Shift the gear shirt to the "P" (park) position, put your foot on the brake, and turn the key off and then on to the light test position (do not start the vehicle!). Ensure your instrument panel lights all work. If so, drop the shifter back to 1st gear and replace the 4 screws holding the cluster in place. Here's where a magnetic tip screwdriver will really come in handy.

Maneuver the instrument cluster trim piece back into position and reconnect the connectors on the right side of the trim piece, holding the front of each connector with the palm of your hand for counterpressure. Don't force the plugs. They should go back in easily and you will feel a "click" when each is seated properly. Pull the lighting connectors through from the left side, then put the trim piece in it's final position. You will have to overlap the center console trim price to get the trim to fit perfectly. There will also be some rubber flaps over the steering column that will need to all align properly. Replace the 3 screws holding the trim piece in place. Reconnect the lighting panel connectors on the left of the trim piece and snap it back in place with only moder pressure.

Return your shift lever to Park "P" and reposition your tilt steering wheel to where it is comfortable for you.

Start the vehicle and ensure that every switch that you disconnected and reconnected is functional (typically headlights, dimmer, hazard flashers, rear wiper, rear wiper wash, rear defroster, security indicator). Turn off the vehicle, remove the wheel chocks, release the parking brake and perform a test drive to ensure that the instrument cluster gauges still function (tachometer, speedometer, fuel gauge, temperature sensor, batter voltage, etc.). If any of them do not function, you'll need to perform the maintenance function again to find any plugs not properly seated. However, if everything works well, you've just saved yourself about $100 in labor charges from your local mechanic.

According to the 2001 Mercury Villager Owner Guide :

For the 3.3 liter V6 engine :

With engine oil filter change :

( 4.2 US. quarts of 5W-30 engine oil )

The camshaft position sensor is an intregal part of the distributor, therefore if the CMP sensor is defective the distributor must be replaced. Have it checked out by a qualified mechanic.

Low coolant level which causes an air pocket in the engine.

Open the glove box door and remove the glove box. You should now be able to look directly at the motor and the resistor.

>In 1999, they changed from the coil type resister to a printed circuit board. The coil type is about 2 1/5" long by 1 1/2" wide with kid of a square 4 wire connector.

> The 2000 printed circuit type is about 4" long by 1/2" wide with a 4 wire connector with all the wires in one row. It's right up against the fire wall and partially hidden by the carpet. It's there, you just have to look. The tube you see is a cooler tube for the blower motor. It takes air out of the plenum case and directs it though the tube and into the motor housing.

>

> By the way, if the resister has the internal fuse burned, you probably have a blower motor starting to fail and it's drawing too much current at times. It will get worse.

> You need a blower motor from a 99-02 Villager/Quest.

>In doing some research on my own problem, which is the same as yours, I came across an answer for both of us. From March 2006 there was an answer that said that the control module was bad. He said that this used to be called a resistor pack. It's located behind the glove box. He said you open the glove box compartment and make it swing all the way down by squeezing in on the sides. You'll see the module attached to plenum with two plugs connected. Unscrew the two screws to get the module out. New part number from dealer is 5179985AA. The original part number has been discontinued. He said (in 2006) that the dealer cost for the module was $56.00 and you can replace it yourself in about 10 minutes.

Blower Motor Control - Manual Control System

The position of the blower motor control knob determines the speed at which the

blower motor (18527) operates. Each position of the blower motor control knob is

detented for positive engagement. The blower motor control works in conjunction

with the blower motor resistor to control the four-speed operation of the blower

motor. The blower motor control switch can be replaced separately from the

manual control assembly.

Blower Motor Control - Electronic Control System

The rotation of the blower motor control determines the speed of the blower

motor. The blower motor control works in conjunction with the A/C blower motor

speed control (19E624) to control the 12-speed operation of the blower motor.

Blower Motor

The blower motor (18527) is mounted within the A/C evaporator/blower motor

assembly, and contains the following:

blower motor and blower motor wheel (18504)

blower motor resistor (with manual control option)

A/C blower motor speed control (19E624) (with electronic control option)

A/C air inlet door (19A813)

A/C air inlet door actuator motor

A/C evaporator core (19860) (if equipped)

Blower Motor Resistor

If you have EATC, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control for your heater/a/c

system, you WON'T have a blower motor resister. Instead, you will have a blower

motor speed controller in that location.

If you have an electronic digital temp control system with a digital display. If so, you have a blower motor speed controller instead of a resister. The controller is a 3" x 3" box with fins on it for cooling. It is located under the dash by the blower motor, just to the left.

It has a white aspirator hose routed over it. 2 screws and one connector. It is fairly expensive so be sure it is the bad part. I have one I salvaged a while ago for a spare just in case someone needed it.

The aspirator hose takes air from the resister location and feeds it to the temp sensor that controls blower speed, etc.

So, your problem could be the motor, the speed controller, the digital control head, the sensor, wiring etc.

Oddly enough the firing order is; 1-2-3-4-5-6. Number one cylinder is at the right rear of the engine. Or, if facing the engine, the drive belt end and closest to the fire wall. The corresponding distributor wire tower is closest to and almost pointing to number one cylinder.

You will have to reinitialize the key fob to the car system. Check the owners manual for the proper procedure or ask the local dealer for instructions.

There are two sensors on a 1999 Villager. The upstream sensor is located in the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine. It could be right on top mounted straight up or further down mounted sideways. The downstream sensor is located in the exhaust pipe right behind the catalytic converter. If you have a check engine light that comes on due to an indicated O2 sensor fault, the problem may not be the sensor itself. (Keep in mind that the upstream sensor actively monitors the air/fuel ratio and sends a variable feedback signal to the PCM. The PCM uses the downstream sensor for the catalyst monitor system and does not affect the air/fuel ratio). Check the wiring from the O2 sensor to the PCM for shorts or open wires. Check for proper voltage from the sensor by back probing the connector with a straight pin. Turn the ignition ON but do not start the engine. Connect a DIGITAL voltmeter TO a good ground and the positive lead (usually the center wire) of the O2 sensor SIGNAL wire at the connector. It should give a reading between 400 and 450 millivolts (.40 to .45. volts). If not, trace and repair the circuit. CAUTION: DO not probe the wires of the O2 sensor or the harness as the circuit is very sensitive to excessive circuit loads or circuit damage of any kind.

The CKP sensor is located on the left side of the engine compartment on the transaxle housing.

The term chassis means the frame plus the "running gear" like engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, and suspension. That's what we meant when describing older cars that actually had a full frame. Since a lot of new cars are now unibody construction, you could call the front portion of frame which connects to the rest of the body an "engine chassis". Or, if you will, a frame work which supports the engine.

The DLC (data link connector) is located under the dash just below the steering column if you have a 1996 or newer Villager. Pre-1996 vehicles have diagnostic connector mounted on the transaxle beside the starter which must be jumpered to obtain the fault codes.

The knock sensor is under the intake manifold between the heads toward the rear of the engine.

there are three belts one for the alt and one for the air one for the water pump and power stearing but its called the acceleration tension pully from all i have been looking

Check with your dealer. Seems to me that there was a recall or service bulletin on the driver's seat belt.

it is an internal retaining ring

The front speakers are accessed by removing the three screws on the door panel they Will have a round cover on them, so with a flat head screw driver pop them open which will give you access to a Phillips head. Right below the door handle there will be another screw which you will have to do the same thing as the other ones. Then the door panel will pull off which Will give you access to the speaker. I'm sorry but I would like to also know how to get to the back speakers. Jim

This involves removing the window regulator to gain access to the motor. REMOVE: Window control panel and disconnect wiring plugs. Door trim panel Door weather sheet Now that the easy part is done, you can remove the door glass. If the window can not be lowered to at least half way, this will be difficult. Remove the two bolts on the bottom and slide the glass up and out of the window channel. Remove the four bolts that hold the motor/guide assembly and remove it from the door and repair or replace as needed. Reverse steps to assemble and you are done. Good job. HAVE A BEER !!

i have been working on one lately myself i have been trying to figure out. i cannot help on were the crank is yet, but, i do know the knock sensor is under the intake about dead center, you do have to take off the upper and lower both off totaly. I do also know that the knock sensor is not cheap either.