From 91 to 93, the vr4 and stealth rt/tt have 2 total

From 94 to 99, they have a total of four (4).

Two (2) installed on the J-pipe before the pre-cats.

Two (2) installed on the Down-pipe after the pre-cats.

The ECU only looks at the first two (before pre-cats) for determining how much fuel to add/remove.

For emissions, all four (4) need to be up and running or you will fail smog.

there r called snake eyes

I have a 1997 SOHC FWD with a 5-speed transmission, the only modification is a K&N air system and I hit 0-60 in about 5 secs, I get to 3rd gear. Being that it is a FWD, I don't think more horsepower will improve it alot as it is already difficult to keep the tires from spinning.

Shawn cook 3000gt.us

Linda McCartney

You really need a manual for this one. The procedure differs for two wheel vs 4whl drive. Go to www.Team3s site there is a wealth of knowledge there. Bob Forest ang Eric Gross provide almost all of the info and you can get a comprehensive manual on CD there. you will need to take the whole assembly apart and then use a puller assuming you are wanting to replace the bearing. The hub may be able to be removed from the knuckle without removing everything else if you are good as it is pressed on. If you are trying to replacce a broken Stud you can do that without removing the hub but you need to do a little grinding on the knuckle to get the necessary clearance. In either case I suggest going to Team3s and joining the discussion forum where you can post this question and interact through emails with the members. Hope this helps Ray

The transmission must be removed to access the two freeze plugs on that side. It is easier to remove the engine, but techinically, no, you do not _HAVE_ to.

I ran into the same problem after re-building the engine. The pressure at idle started to stay toward the low side instead of the regular middle position. Not wanting to take a chance destroying a new engine I could not ignore the low reading and just assume everything was nominal. So you'll want to replace the oil-pressure sending unit. It is a sensor that is threaded into the block on the right-side of the engine (i.e. driver-side next to the firewall. PROBLEM: Before installing the new sending unit, I came across some other owners that said a new sending unit will never read like the original. Sure enough, even with the new sending unit, the guage will fluctuate but usually reads low. The only way to really get an accurate reading of the pressure would be to intall a mechanical guage instead of the electric sending-unit/guage method. That being said, I have not had any problems with the "low" level. You would probably be ok replacing the sending unit (about $100 or so) and not risk the chance that there really IS insufficient oil pressure. If it still reads low after replacing just make sure it moves up a little when you start the car, and moves up considerably more when the throttle is applied. Hope this information helps somebody, Love your choice of vehicle!

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Or.... lol, you could just take a look and make sure your plug is plugged into the sending unit! take off the driver wheel, and the plastic cover behind the wheel. You will see the sending unit & pressure sensor. I believe it will have a green plastic clip, make sure it's plugged in.

its your tranny, you probably damaged the teeth on 1st gear or your syncros went out, if all gears are not going in then its your clutch

F4a33

Cylinder #1 is at the front of the engine on the right bank(front). Front of car ------------- #1 #3 #5 ------------- #2 #4 #6

watermelon

YES.

punishing

To remove the steering wheel start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental airbag deployment. Then remove the screws on the backside of the steering wheel to remove the airbag. Disconnect the airbag wiring connectors. Remove the steering column shaft nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller. Do not yank, hammer, pry the steering wheel off as this could result in steering shaft damage.

i think it is the engine coolant level

it's windshield washer level, if on just add water.

It comes stock with a 222 horsepower. Most people believe it had the same engine as all of the dodge stealth's produced but they are wrong. The dodge stealth had 160 horsepower SOHC in their base model and the 3000GT had a 222 horsepower DOHC in their base model. However, in 1997 they started to make SOHC 3000GT's and then they had the same horspower base models.

I had a problem very similar to this on my '94 SL. I finally tracked it down to the electrical plug that comes out of the fuel pump/sending unit assembly that fits down into the gas tank.

Unfortunately, you can't just buy the electrical pigtail and re-wire it. You have to buy the entire assembly (fuel pump, sending unit, metal bracket, pigtail, etc.).

When I replaced this entire assembly - I never had the problem again. Of course the cost was in excess of $500 or so.

I suppose I could have re-wired a new circuit to the fuel pump, but I didn't really want to start cutting up the exisiting factory wiring harness.

Archie

Topeka, KS

It is very difficult and time consuming for a back yard mechanic. I have done it before and I didn't think I would ever finish. I'll put it this way, if you're going to try this yourself you'll need every tool that you've got and then some. 2 head gaskets, head studs, valve seals, timing belt along with tentionors and all pulleys associated with the timing and you'll probably want to get some 3rd gen lash adjusters will get you started. You'll need timing tools and also a tool that is used to compressed the valve springs to get the keepers out. You can do a search on all of this. It's very extensive you can't do this on a weekend.

I had a similar problem with my 1994 3000GT. When I would shift into reverse, it would stall. As is turned out, the radiator was partially clogged, cutting off flow for the oil cooler. After replacing the radiator, I have had no problems with this.

Ok wow 3000gt don't have an oil cooler the vr4's do... A radiator has nothing to do with why the tranny kills the car when you put it in gear.... You my friend were robbed by your mechanic.... It's probably the idle air control on the throttle body.... It could need a rebuild of the clutch with a full kit.... I recommend finishing the flywheel as well. Hope its not the tranny sychros that means new or re built tranny .... Good luck think simple first....