On 2.6L and 2.0L / 2.4L 4-cylinder engines its 1-3-4-2 .... on V6 engines its 1-2-3-4-5-6

bell end failure

cruse control fuse for montero export XLS

If your symptom is that you power the engine off and then, moments later, coolant starts to spray out of the radiator cap/coolant reservoir then you have a cracked cylinder-head and/or broken/failed head-gasket.

What is happening is the crack in the head (or tear in the gasket) is letting combustion gases into the cooling system. These gasses collect at the highest point and effectively "air-lock" that area keeping coolant away from the metal. When the engine is shut off these gasses shrink and allow coolant to touch the blistering-hot uncooled metal surface and instantly boil the coolant into steam which provides the pressure that is driving out your coolant.

If the gasket was the original cause it is very likely that by running it this way the cylinder-head is now ruined and you should expect to have to replace it.

Hope this helped

replace the 16" wheels and tires with 12" wheels from a golf cart

In the center of the drum/pully there is a bolt (or nut, depending). This is what is locking the pully in place. Loosen it (no more than it takes to free it) befor turning the adjuster. Be sure to loosly snug it down to check your final adjustment and if correct, then you can tighten it all the way. (If it is too loose when the adjustment is set then the drum/pully will move when you tighten it and throw off the adjustment.)

No, it is your fault for not properly maintaining the vehicle in the past. An engine shouldn't do that just because it was switched to synthetic oil.

On the front of the engine. It keeps the belt tight.

It's up under the dash on the drivers side. If you get down on the floor and look up under the dash, it's on the far left, way up inside. Use a flashlight. It should actually say "wiper ???" on it.

A Montero may not start if the battery is dead or power is not reaching the starter. Both can be readily diagnosed by a local mechanic or dealership.

disconect the batery cable for 10 minutes, if that don't work take it to the dealer

OMG what a PITA. It is just under the 2 bronze colored metal tubes in the center of the fire wall directly behind the engine. you will have to feel for it as it is nearly impossible to see. it is directly above a black rubber tube coming out of the top of the transmission. you will need to run a wire into it to clear it out. A 12" piece of stiff wire bent at an angle about 3" down is what I used. Happy hunting.

Most likely in fuel tank

I replaced mine about a year ago. It's not a job you want to get into unless your trained. First you jack up the rear end from the rear diff, it will give you enough room to work, take off driver rear tire, take out mud guards from that area, unhook all fuel lines, including filter and filler neck. next you have to unbolt the entire gas tank, and get a floor jack under it to help you bring it down without damaging it. The fuel pump is inside of the tank, on the upper end. After you get this out, most likely you will have surface rust, clean it up carefully with a flat head to make sure it doesn't get worse, then undercoat the entire tank. install the new pump, it goes in the same way it came out. after go in reverse order of taking it all apart. If you do this, you might as well replace the fuel filter with it, since you have the lines unhooked. It takes a few hours to do this if your trained to do it and have all tools needed. The new pump goes for around $600 at the dealer, i don't recommend using after market in a mitsubishi, it causes more problems and youd replace again in a year. If you pay the dealer, they charge around $1,500 average for this job.

Replacing spark plugs is pretty simple. Disconnect the battery, remove the cover and cables, remove the old spark plugs, put in the new spark plugs, put the cover and wires back on the spark plugs, and reconnect the battery.

try replacing the brake light switch; it is located under the dash directly behind where the brake pedal is. it should actually have a small button that is released when the pedal is depressed. You can check the switch on the bench to insure this is the culprit, simply place an ohm meter across the two contacts; you should have no continuity when the button is depressed, as soon as the button is released you should have zero resistance.

Other possibilities could be a blown fuse on the brake light circuit, or a blown bulb.

a sensor is bad. if it blinks all the time, it is deff. a sensor. watch for this next time your driving. if it anti-lock light turns on while braking, feels like something is grinding or not running right, take it in to a Mitsubishi dealer and have them read it. i had the same issue, it was a sensor smaller than the palm of my hand, costs around $150 at the dealer, no after market available. If you do not fix this, and this is the problem, your transfer case will continue to try and invert power from the front end to the rear because it knows something is not right, while your front end believes it is in 4wd so it will continue to try and keep power in the front. in the end your 4wd will go, and your transmission will be shot.

A. You will need a flat-head screw driver. B. under the hood you will see that behind the headlight there's a housing type fixture. Turn counter-clock wise to remove this housing. The bulb is seated within this housing. You will notice that you can't simply pull the bulb out. There's a tab that houses the bulb within the outer housing which prevents you from doing so. Use your screw driver to hold this tab down while pulling the bulb housing out. If you have difficulty locating this tab, note that your replacement bulb also has this same tab on it.

disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes, if it comes back on after you drive the computer is getting an error code from the engine check the codes to see whats causing it

call you local Mitsubishi dealer service dept. with the serial and model number and they will give it to you they might ask for the vin number in some cases to make sure the stereo is actually yours and not stolen

remove radio, heater control, glove box, dashboard trim & bezels. once you do this you can see a tublar bar which the dashboard secured to. remove the dashboard and the heater core is there in the center

yes