Nissan Quest

The gross weight of the 2007 Nissan Quest is 5820 lbs..

Need new brake pads

The 2005 Nissan Quest OBD 2 port is under driver side dash above accelerator pedal

I was told it was 32.

I installed a aftermarket block heater in the lower radiator hose. I took the opportunity to replace both upper and lower hoses and flush system. Mixed results with block warming on '95 V6. In the past I've used soft plug replacement heaters and been happier with instant warm heater air on cold mornings. The lower hose may warm up the engine slightly faster. Hard to quantify. I've put the heater on a 110v timer so it comes on about 3-4 hours prior to my morning commute.

Depends on the year, but AC, and water pump belts each have a tensioner. Alt has one built into the alt, underneath the van.

The gas tank on the 2001 Nissan Quest holds 20 gal..

right in front of the driver, on the firewall behind the brake fluid reservior. Looks like a soup can with a hose on top. I'm not 100% sure about other model years, but I believe that for model years 1999-2002 the fuel filter is underneath the drivers seat, on the outside of the car, behind a black plastic panel that is about a foot long and 10 inches wide. I know for sure that this is where it is on my 1999 Quest GXE.

'97 NISSAN Quest / MERCURY Villager rough idle & hesitation When the vehicle warms up it will start running rough and then dies. It won't start until it cools down and sometimes smells like rotten eggs. Does this sound familiar? You may have replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, catalytic converter, coil, ignition modulator, distributor, and even the EGR valve which either doesn't solve the problem or it comes back. I replaced most of these trying to find the problem. The problem is a 2" hard plastic hose that goes into the side of the rubber sleeve that spans the between the throttle body and the air filter case. This can work it's way loose and allow air to leak causing the vehicle to run rough and even die at idle. The hose will work its way out quickly if you have a broken motor mount and you may not even realize the motor mount is broken. When the hose comes completely loose it will cause severe hesitation, lack of power and acceleration. '97 NISSAN Quest / MERCURY Villager If you're considering buying a Nissan product, DON'T!!! They are all LEMONS. Well not really but they are just very poorly made and very commonly have moderate to severe electrical problems. All Nissans have a lot of seemingly common parts that are proprietary, break often and are only available at the dealership at their overinflated prices. If you really must buy one, than don't keep it past the bumper to bumper warranty.

The Nissan security system is a security system on your Nissan to ensure your Nissan is secure. See how easy it is to answer.

See this website, Free instructions. www.sound-repair.com

yes

The ground clearance of the 2011 Nissan Quest is 0 ft. 6.2 in. (6.2 in.).

On all Quest models 2003 and prior, as you're facing the van from the front, the alternator is on the left side. It is towards the back, down about arms length.

not really all that hard, but it's usually a part of the timing belt change. You have to remove the upper timing belt cover to get at all the bolts for the water pump. Also belt for pump must be removed, not that hard. Pump sits in the middle of the engine face, so be prepared to skin a knuckle or two. Four 8mm bolts hold the pulley on the front of the pump, then about six 10mm bolts hold the water pump to the block. Use a sealant or liquid gasket for the new pump, and make sure you put the one bolt on the riht side of the pump back where it came from. . . it has a threaded front to accept a bolt from the timing belt cover and will only work in one place.

The 2006 Nissan Quest has a 3.5 L base engine size.

The 1995 Nissan Quest minivan has a 3.0 L V-6 engine. This vehicle's oil capacity is 5 quarts. The recommended oil for the 1995 Quest isÊ5W-30.

My fuel pump is very loud. I'm told it is aftermarket but it is fine.

This is bassed on my '95 quest.

There are two.

If you turn your steering wheel all the way and get out and look on the inside of the wheel, you will see a black rubber boot. That is the boot that protects the cv joint.

That is the end of the axle. From there the axle goes into the transmission.

You can tell you have a bad cv joint if you hear clicking coming from that area when you take a corner. The joint is part of the axle so if you have a bad joint you replace the axle.

If you have a good manual, (Haynes) replacing the axle is pretty easy. Replacing the drivers side axle is a little easier because there are no bolts holding it in place like there is on the passenger side.

I replaced my drivers side axle a few months ago and it took less than an hour. I borrowed a friends electric impact wrench which helped a lot.

If you replace the axle you should also consider changing the lower ball joint while your are under there. It would cost about $30 more.

The driver side axle should be around $75.00

Same line the dip stick goes in. Use a funnel and be careful with this.

No

This is a 'dealer only' item. You must go to the Nissan dealer and purchase Nissan 4 Matic-D fluid. Otherwise you can end up with much larger transmission problems

Labor prices differ according to where you live. call a couple of local garages for estimates

The starter is about $150-200. Double the amount if a shop is going to do the work.

You have to turn the key on so that you can put the gear shift in it's lowest position to get it out of the way. Tilt the steering wheel out of the way and turn the key off. Remove the two screws from the underside of the top of the bezel around the instrument panel. Remove the bezel. Remove the four screws holding the panel in the dash. The bulbs are replaced from the back so you don't need to remove the clear plastic from the panel. Gently turn the panel and manipulate it so that it turns 90*. You won't be able to remove it completely becase of the speedometer cable. After you turn it you will be able to see the backside of the bulbs. Just give them a quarter turn and they pop right out.

For a 2000 Quest - You need to remove the trim first. Start with the area around the radio. You just need to pull that out ... not totally remove it. Then remove the headlight switch to get access to the "third" screw you need to remove along with the the two from the underside of the top bezel. Remove the headlight wire connection and move the whole assembly to the right over the stearing wheel to get it out of the way. Now you have a clear shot at the 4 screws securing the instrument panel. There are 5 or so bubls so if you forget which bulb it is , simply reconnect the headlight switch to the wire and turn on the lights .