Nissan Quest

Brake lights only come on when you press the pedal. The brake light is either a different bulb or filament in a dual-filament bulb than the tail light.

The rear track of the 2014 Nissan Quest is 5 ft. 8.1 in. (68.1 in.).

The tail light is attached to the car body by two screws and two pins. 1. Open the rear hatch to access the screws. 2. Remove The Screws (2) 3. Pull the lens straight back. This will require some force to overcome the pins that hold the other side.

I'm not with my Quest right now so I can't give step-by-step, but generally, the Halogen bulbs are held in by a collar on the reart of each headlight assembly. The headlight assembly does not need to be removed. The following is performed with the engine hood open (and suitably braced), engine off, lights off. Access to the bulb is from the back of each headlight assembly Gently turn the collar (I think counter-clockwise) and pull back. The bulb and wire harness should pull back easially. The next step is somewhat more difficult, the bulb disconnects from the wire harness by depressing the plastic "catch" holding the fixture together. Once apart it is very easy to replace with a new bulb. Be careful not to touch or otherwise leave body or other oils on the new bulb as that can contribute to early (or immediate) bulb failure.

where the relay for rear blower in Nissan quest 1997

The 2001 Nissan Quest has a V6 engine.

It's almost always a wheel balance problem. Take the vehicle to your tire store and have the wheels rotated and balanced using a SPIN balancer. The cheap "bubble" balancer does almost no good.

how to replace water pump on Nissan quest 3.0 1995

The 2007 Nissan Quest runs on premium unleaded (required).

They should be pre-gapped when you buy them.

The gap is .031 to .035. Open a package of plugs and you will see that they are not "pre-gapped" but vary widely in a set.

The gas tank on the 2005 Nissan Quest holds 20 gal..

To remove the video console is very easy once you figure out how! Here's how to do it. The link someone provided is only for the radio. 1) Remove two bolts at the very bottom of the back console using a 10mm socket and extension. The bolts are right against the floor carpet. 2) Once these two bolts are off, slide the entire console back towards the back seat. 3) The console is now free. 4) Tilt the console back and reach in from the front seat area to remove the small connector that provides power to the console. 5) You're done! This took me about an hour to figure out. I think I could do it again in two minutes if I had known how to do it before! http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisQuest3.htm

In the fuel tank

Facing engine, on right side . It will be attached to a radiator hose leading to the thermostat. To the left of the pump will be a small belt and tension pulley that drives it. You will need 10mm socket for housing removal and a special socket tool ( about 3" in diam. that can be rented or loaned through Auto Zone car stores. About an hour and a half working time. Good luck.

98 Aurora owner.

Just replaced my water pump. Got an estimate from a garage, 340 bucks? I bought the pump (new pump) 57.99 and I bought the special socket for 21.00. Took me less than an hour from start to finish. Amazingly simple water pump to change. The hose clamps are a bit strong and were the most difficult item to remove. Had to use a very large pair of channel locks to get them off.

The 2011 Nissan Quest has .

The 2005 Nissan Quest's engine produces 242 ft-lbs. @ 4400 rpm.

hello the Nissan quest gxe comes original with 16 inch wheels so 15 inch will not fit if you have purchased new wheels that are 15 inch you could use 225/70r15 which will keep almost the same overall diameter 215/70r15 is 2.5% bigger not good

replace leaking part and or the gasket where the leak is occuring. check all hoses to make shure its not leaking from the hose

i dont know

i have no friend to help me out

The "flex plate" will interchange as long as the donor vehicle is the same year and has the same size engine. Both vehicles use Nissan powertrain.

its not removeable, it just slides

Here is some helpful advice.

Wheel hub/bearing is $133 per side at RockAuto.

Also, if you are in that far, you should replace the CV drive axles as well. Cost about $55 per side at O'Reilly and only takes a few more minutes while you are in there.

The job should take about about two hours per side but the first side took me six hours of trial and error.

Tricky Part #1: Separating the steering ball joint. This takes a ball joint separator. Is used the one that looks like a fork and you just drive it into the joint. Works good except you will damage the grease boot and need a new one. You could also try the screw type separator but I have less confidence in anything that does not involve a big hammer here.

Tricky Part #2: Turns out yo don't need to take apart the pinch joint. That joint at the very bottom that has a bolt going through and pinching a stud that comes up from the lowr control arm. Just leave that alone. I did get one side out but it was a royal PITA. Only to find out you don't have to.

Tricky Part #3: Once you get the steering ball joint loose and the two big bolts out at the top of the wheel knuckle (bolts going up toward the spring), you can start to swing out the wheel knuckle and should be able to get it far enough out to get the drive shaft out of it. The shaft may take a couple smacks with a hammer or you can use the elegant puller that attaches to your wheel studs but I found I did not need that. See, did not need to remove the pinch bolt.

Tricky Part #4: Getting the bearing assembly out. After you take out the four bolts that hold it in from the rear. And don't forget to remove the wheel sensor. Now it is time to get the bearing out. I pushed and banged and though for sure it was pressed in. that is why I took the pinch nut off the first one so I could take the whole assembly in to the shop only to look like a fool when they took a hammer to it and it came right out. Just keep smacking in from the the rear on the hard inner spline part and it will start to budge. When putting your bearing back in, notice there are three notches in the metal on the rear ring. One of these lines up with the wheel sensor. Make sure you put the bearing in correctly, not 180 degrees out.

Tricky Part #5: Getting the drive shaft out of the transmission (left side). The right side is easier. Like I said, if you don't spend the $55 to replace this part, you are crazy. That boot is going to go at eight years or 100,000 miles or so. you cant pull on the the axle or you will just pull apart the assembly. This takes a slide hammer which you can rent at your local auto store. The trick is what to put at the end of the slide hammer since it is such a small space between the axle metal and the transmission metal. I got on of the three jaw pullers from the auto store also and disassembled it so there was just a piece of metal at a right angle at the end of the hammer that slid between the parts. Then it came out no problem. The right side could also use the slide hammer but you have to rotate the collar (the one that has three small screws) after you take out the screws to get a piece of the metal that you can pull against.

Hope that helps!

The 2008 Nissan Quest has a 5-speed automatic.

if you look in between the body crossover [ the thing that holds your wiper linkage and hood rubber seal ] and the silver thing on top of the engine with the spider legs [ the intake manifold ]...look in between the two...there is about an 1 1/2" clearance between ...right in the middle of the manifold on the top and to the left of the egr [which is a square with a round stamped metal in the center held on by two bolts [ looks kinda like a drink coaster] with vacuum lines coming out of it..it's right next to that [ about a 1/2" to the left of it when your facing the windshield ] and it's hidden by an electrical wire that plugs to a grey connection....it's a bear to work on...it took me all day to do it...it's a stupid ignorant piece of engineering that shops don't want to touch...if somebody wants $150.00 or $200.00 to do it believe me it's worth it...it's a horrible experience...it takes a 19mm socket to get it out...buy a couple cause your going to drop and loose one putting it back in...you've been warned...i'll never work on anything on the backside of that engine again

I would follow the cable back to the tansmision. Make sure it is intact and connected at both ends.