Nissan

Yes, it's overfueling, a common fault on this model.

You need to take out the spark plugs and dry them, a hair drier will do it.

Leave the plugs out for maybe an hour to allow the excess fuel to evaporate in the engine.

Replace the plugs and try to start - do not touch the accelerator until it has started.

Never stop the engine until it begins to warm up, at least five minutes, or until the temp gauge begins to move.

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3.5 litres of 75w90.and 3.2 litres for the transfer

Go on Google and type in :Types of leaves and keep scrolling until you find the leaves you are looking for

there is a short in the relay for the head lights

3.5 lrs 3.5 lrs 3.5 lrs 3.5 lrs 3.5 lrs

You need to check if there is a spark at the plugs & also if fuel is getting to the

cylinders.

The micra has a fuel injection fuse in the fuse box located on the front panel.

It may also be a problem with the crank position sensor or the engine

coolant tmprature sensor.

When owning a car it is important to know its fuel economy. The mpg of a 2008 of a Nissan skyline is 23 mpg city and 32 mpg highway.

Check under the dash lower lefthand side. The lever should be next to the hood release lever.

Pour 5 gallons of gasoline in engine bay. Strike match and ignite gasoline. Presto! All fixed!

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on my 97 hardbody ka24e the egr is under the breather behind the throttle body to the left a bit. It is round metal and has a diphragm under it you can press up on to close the valve which is one of the tests to see if it is failing.

Poor performance, poor fuel mileage,

My repair manual said to remove the two bolts and the electric wires and pull it down out of the engine. That's an extreme simplification! Mine has a 5 spd and 4 cyl engine. Disconnect the negative battery post first. I removed the entire air cleaner ass'y, along with the fuel filter mounting bracket so I could get to the top 14mm bolt on the starter with my 14mm closed-end wrench, and turned it about 1/16 of a turn over and over until it got loose enough that I could get my fingers onto the bolt and back it out. I left the bottom bolt tight so I would not be fighting the weight of the starter, and now I was ready to take out that bolt. I removed it from under the truck with a 3/8 drive ratchet and although it was easier than the first bolt, you can only get one hand up there at a time, so it's tough. Now the starter was loose and I turned it so that I could take off the hot wire with a ratchet and extension and pulled the blade connector off the other connection. I couldn't get the starter lowered down from under the truck or up from the top, so I took the clutch slave cylinder loose from the transmission (two bolts) as the hydraulic line was preventing the starter from coming down into my hand. Once I did that, I took out the starter. Put it back together in reverse procedure, but after putting the bottom bolt in the starter, tighten it up to hold it in place so you can slide the top bolt into the hole. I bought a "finger ratchet" this time from Northern tool and put it onto my 6" extension and 14mm socket and slid it over the top bolt and was able to turn the bolt this way, from under the truck, until it was snug. It's too tight under there to use a regular ratchet. Then I tightened it down with my 14mm closed end wrench. This entire procedure probably took me over 4 hours, but I could do it a lot faster now that I know a few tricks.

Take the old one out and put the new one in the same way as you took the old one out

chain

in a plastic tube in the engine that leads to the sump.

Check your spark plugs and leads.

Blown fuse, bad starter, bad wires to the starter, no power.

If the choke not work properly then your car wont start in cold weather or morning times. The other reason might be the fuel section is dirty and need some service.

in the brake fluid reservoir, somewhere along the back of the engine bay. the cap will say something like "brake fluid dot 4 only"

1.751 tons.

5 people, 2 in the front and 3 in the back.