In owner's manual see instrument cluster, see chart for "check light" which should footnote you to another section in the owner's manual. Here you'll find the procedure.

I have an'05. To reset: have odometer (not trip odometer) display showing; push in the odometer reset knob; while holding it in turn the ignition switch to "ON" position; continue to hold the odometer reset knob for a minimum of 5 seconds. Odometer will show zeros or dashes indicating procedure is done.

The bulb is replaced from the back side of the gauge cluster. Don't know of any place on the internet to refer you for detailed information but the gauge assembly is very easy to get out. Just remove the two screws from the black trim panel around the gauge. Pull the trim panel out--two clips on the bottom corners and the two screws on the top. Remove the 4 screws that hold the gauge assembly in the dash and carefully pull out the assembly. You will need to unplug the 3 plugs from the top of the assembly. Just replace the odometer light bulb located on the bottom directly behind the odometer area.

Source: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Honda-Repair-814/Odometer-light-2000-Accord.htm

Yes they are extrememly accurate as long as you are using the OEM size tires that came on the car from the factory and they have the correct air pressure as recommended by the manufacture. They are also not going to be as accurate with worn out tires as they are with new tires.

ANY TIME a fuse BLOWS REPEATEDLY on replacement, a severe SHORT CIRCUIT in the circuit served by that fuse IS THE CAUSE. There could many causes of THE short circuit. A couple of the more common causes are: 1. A "hot" wire in the circuit has had the insulation cut or chaffed through, allowing the bare metal conductor [wire] to come into contact with a grounded metal part of the body sheet metal. 2. A device [switch, connector, a lamp [bulb] socket], motor or similar, in the circuit has developed an INTERNAL short, usually due to overheating and/or corrosion. Number one usually happens when a hot wire is pinched or crushed between two sheet metal panels, or the wire [conductor] makes a very sharp turn or bend around a sharp grounded metal edge, and tension and/or vibration eventually chaffes through the insulation, allowing the hot conductor to contact the grounded sheet metal or brace which damaged the insulation. Failure number two usually occurs as the result of material and/or manufacturing defect[s]. j3h.

One of the earliest (chariot) odometers may have been designed by Archimedes

(287-212 BC) and was described around 27 BC. Some form likely existed before then as indicated by the recording of distances during the reign of Alexander the Great (336-323 BC).

Chinese scientists independently created a form of odometer around the same time, notably the "drum carriage" later improved by Zhang Heng (87-136 AD)

Blaise Pascal designed a geared version for carriages in 1645, and a version was adapted to measure postal routes by Benjamin Franklin in 1775.

The modern automobile odometer was designed as a combination speedometer and odometer by brothers Arthur P. Warner and Charles H. Warner in 1903.

Check out the wiring for the speed sensor located on the trans,. GoodluckJoe

There is no such thing as an "odometer sensor." There is a vehicle speed sensor that is located on the output shaft housing of the transmission. That sends info to the speedometer. From there, the speedometer and the odometer are both operated internally, so if your speedo is working, but the odometer isn't, you have a problem inside the speedo head assembly.

IF YOUR TALKING ABOUT THE OVERHEAD DISPLAY. GET IT TO THE KILOMETER, THEN HOLD THE BOTTONS IN ON EACH SIDE OF THE PANNEL TILL IT BEEPS..
HOPE IT HELPS

maybe only for 1 minute or two If it stays on beyond that try to push the clock button while everything is powered off to see if display goes off

Stepper motor for speedometer has a broken gear in it, causing unpredictable operation. If the odometer is still working, then the speed sensor is OK. Instrument cluster needs repair.

Not sure what year you have? Is it digital, or analog (needles and numbers on plastic rolls) If it is the needle version, you may have a cable the runs up the back of the speedo cluster from the transmission. My 84 cougar had this. (I had disconnected it once, I forgot why) But anyways, it may be broken, or just loose. To tell if it just loose, or fallen off, you should be able to reach up behind from underneath down by the pedals. If I remember right, cuz its been a long time since I had it, there is a black plastic cover, which you can remove to get up there. You will need to lie on your back kinda to reach up. If it has come loose or off, it just threads on like the cable to from your wall to your tv. If its on, it may be broke. The speedo cable is connected to the transmission. It will have another bendable cable inside which spins while you drive, if it does, it could be broke on the inside of the cluster. If that is the case, goto a junk yard and pull one out of another car. If its electronic, and displays a error message, you are hosed. You need to locate another cluster. Junk yard is cheapest bet.

If it is electronic (not Digital) then youi have to replace the Odometer assy inside the instrument cluster. Go to http://www.dashusa.com/ford_trucks.htm and they can send one with your current milage on it for trade. The one for my 1994 cost $225.00 trade-in and that's installing it yourself. Ignore that it says Ford Truck as these folks handle all cars and trucks.

Run1

The odometer showed that the car had driven 24,000 miles since it was built.

He suspected that the car's odometer had been illegally rolled back by the owner.

Yes, as the odometer is placed in a conspicuous place. Also, it is required by many auto dealerships to check how much mileage is in a car, to ensure that it still functions.

There is a tiny gear in the odometer itself which is plastic and only lasts about ten years or less.

press and hold the 0000 buttom while it's showing the trip mileage

If its the same as the 1990 740 GL: Often caused by failure of tiny plastic gear (underdesigned) in odometer that blocks odometer motor, which is powered by the same circuit board as the speedometer, thus interfering with it. Also the speedo lift-out plugs (5 tiny underdesigned plug pins) can have intermittent contact (test by flicking clock adjust rod). Remedy: 1. Remove damaged planet gear (and replace if possible; if not, at least you have a speedo so you don't get booked for speeding). 2. Solder wires to circuit board at back of plug pins and feed them through to back of main instrument board and solder to relevant points (check with meter what goes where). PS I carefully hacksawed off a large section of perspex on the speedo case to gain access - the only other way is to remove faceplate of speedo that's securely glued on and probably wouldn't survive intact if pulled off. Happy cobbling! BUT BEFORE DOING THIS check that you are getting a good signal from the diff hall effect speedo sender. If your ABS light comes on its a good bet you need to check those wires.

Yes!

Most probable cause is the drive cable between gearbox and speedo has broken.

1785

remove the fuse for the dash accessories, you might hear BING BING every 10 seconds while you drive with the fuse out but it works!