under the hood on the front left side you'll see a panel that says Fuses and Relays. it's marked on the inside of the cover.
Many things can cause steering shake. Wheels out of balance. ( including rear wheels ) Tryes out of round. Worn steering components. Worn suspension components. Even loose wheel nuts/bolts. Get it checked out for safetys sake.
At a shop, about $600.00 the ball joint is one piece on the control arm
Need to know which engine you have.
Most likely your tires are out of balance. Take it to a shop and have them balance them and then see how it rides.
FYI: this is all in a Chilton's/Haynes manual 15-20 bucks at all automotive stores. disconnect the battery. wait a few min for the residual energy to disapate. take off the plastic around the steering columb. should only be 3-4 screws on the underside. place the key in the ignition and turn to the "run" position. look up into the underside of the columb. on the left hand side is the ignition switch and to the right is the ignition cylinder. on the switch you will see a TORX screw. undo the screw (no 10, i think). the switch should be removable now--there may be another screw, i can't remember. anyway, remove the switch. it can easily be replaced just like it came out. but make sure it is in the exact same way it came out. the cylinder notches into the switch in only one direction. you may have to play with it. i did. Note: when you turn the key it turns a spring-loaded mechanism inside the switch and activates certain contacts. i.e. start-run-stop-acc. the cylinder can only be removed if the key is in, and in the "run" position. it will just pull out. once you pull it out, you can remove the key and examine it for damage/wear. if it's bad, it's usually expensive to replace (here in Hawaii it's nearly 200bucks) install in reverse order hope this helps, David Dub Tek Motor Werks,Hawaii
crank sensor
Make sure you have a good ground
The 99 Breeze 2.4 L dohc engine is non-interference. I just went through a broken timing belt on my daughters car. The Plymouth Breeze with the X in the V.I.N. are free wheeling design. The pistons in this engine have cut-outs on their domes to allow clearance with belt failure. Some 2.4's are interference, on other Chrysler engines. Here is a good website to get information on timing belts and interference and non-interference engine applications for a variety of vehicles. http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2256&location_id=3487&go=SearchGatesPopular
Open the hood, find the radiator cap on your left side. When engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and you will see the thermostat in the hole, about 2 inches deep. Antifrezze may hide the thermostat view. Is is very easy to replace if needed. Replace both thermostat and gasket. by removing the cap holder, helded by two bolts.
Alternator defective, or alternator belt broken or slipping.
A 1996 Plymouth Breeze that starts and runs until it warms up, but then stalls might have a problem with a temperature sensor. The sensor is telling the computer that the temperature is too high for the engine to operate safely. Check the Electronic Temperature Sensor or the Manifold Pressure Sensor (MAP).
An ohmmeter is used to check continuity and resistance. An unfavorable use would be to connect the meter to any power. Unless the meter has a safety feature, connecting it to any type of power will damage the meter.
loosen alternator and remove belt. Remove hose and 2 10mm screws to remove coolant jug for easier access. disconnect negative battery cable 15mm. disconnect alternator connection and remove 10mm nut to remove wire above connector. remove alternator. remove 3 mounting bolts and remove alternator bracket, tight squeeze to get out but will work. look through upper hole in timing cover at camshaft and line up marks making sure #1 cylinder at top dead center. loosen crankshaft bolt. using three jaw puller remove crank pulley. will have to get to bolts on power steering pump to loosen and remove belt that runs on rear of pulley. place block of wood on jack to hold up motor under oil pan. remove motor mount bolts at timing cover , remove two bolts from under frame holding mounting bracket to frame and remove all. remove timing belt cover. use correct allen wrench and turn up back toward car to loosen timing belt tensioner and place small allen through different hole to lock in place while loosened. remove belt making sure to not move cam or crank so timing will be right when replaced. remove two bolts holding on tensioner bracket and remove. remove bolts (some hard to see) on rear timing cover. at this point you should be able to access cam seal, remove with small screwdriver being careful not to scratch or ding cam shaft, install new one with oversize socket or pipe to get even and flush with head. attn : front passenger tire will need to be removed and car on jackstands!
It is located on the discharge side of the compressor. On a 2.4L engine you will need to jack the vehicle up to get to it.
Remove the reservoir, remove the old pump and install the new one.
Yes, have a compression test run on the engine. Any good mechanic will be able through a few other tests, be able to determine if it is blown.
AnswerAlso, you can use a test kit the has chemicals which react to the presence of combustion byproducts in the cooling system. (Blue liquid turns yellow) Also, if you can smell the antifreeze "sweet" smell at back of the car when running, its a pretty good chance. If the steaming is accompanied by a miss or "dead" feeling cylinder, then that is a good sign too. High mileage would make me change head gaskets if I had any doubt at all.....................The "test kit" referred to above is called a block test kit. It has a colored liquid that'll change color when it comes into contact with Exhaust fumes. You open the radiator cap and pump the tester with it stuck against the radiator inlet. But the best way to check is by compression testing the cylinders (through spark plug holes) with the cylinder being tested at TDC (Top dead center). Make sure the crankshaft pulley doesn't move when you fill the cylinder with air. If you have a bad head gasket, usually there will be 2 or more low readings right next to each other.
no but if it's not original key the only thing it wont open is the the back seat release to the trunk area Answer The normal key opens all locks. The "Service key" will only open the doors and ignition. This second "service" key is the one you give to your garage when you drop the car off for service presuming they don't need access to your trunk. Answer Both of the above are correct if some one hasn't replaced one or more of the key cylinders,
check the cheap stuff first like fuel filter or open your gas tank lid and listen for the fuel pump to run when you first turn your key if its not that then probably check your injecters
4 wires for power (red/wht = hot in run) (pnk/tan = hot at all times) (blk/dk grn = park lamp switch output) (org/brn = panel lamp driver) 8 wires for speaker (dk blu/wht and dk blu/org = right rear speaker) (brn/yel and brn/lt blu = left rear speaker) (dk grn and brn/red = left front door speaker) (vio and dk blu/red = right fron door speaker) and 1 black ground wire and 1 antenna wire..