The starter motor is at the rear of the engine.

take CD changer out of glove box take the cover of CD and look inside to the right hand side you will see a large black plastic wheel turn it slowly and you will see the CD drawer go back into the magazine then press magazine release button job done

Its held by 6 screws, 4 are visible the other two (8mm) are located at the back of the engine, very hard to find so use a mirror... Good luck, IB (Netherlands)

THis ain't no question

May I suggest that you start by draining out the automatic gearbox oil or fluid and completely refill. Even 50% might be enough, but if so it'll need doing annually to keep it refreshed. It's probably about the shear strength in the oil being reduced to the point it won't drive this very low gear any more.

Years ago I had the same issue with a Granada Scorpio and the fluid change fixed it, but mine was nearly completely drained and filled with good quality Auto Transmission fluid.

Good luck - a lovely car.

To bleed the clutch of a Rover 75, first remove the interior panels on the steering column. Second, remove the master cylinder and use a syringe to inject the fluid into the system and repeat 4 times to bleed the clutch.

possibly a loose wire connecting under one of the front seats,try shaking them next time the light come on and see if you can make it go off

because the cooling system cant cope

they are made to a budget and all rovers have always been the same

No, not all Rovers have been the same. My father had a Rover 100 (1960s model); it was a good car and had no problem with cooling in the five years he had it. I had a Rover 213, I bought it secondhand very cheaply - it was a rust-bucket but had no mechanical problems in the two years I had it.

the 75 was not made on a small budget, in fact the total opposite is true. The budgets to develop the car were huge. It was built and designed when BMW owned Rover and shares many parts with BMW 3 and 5 series cars. The weak link was in the small 1.8 cars with the K series engine, an engine known for head gasket problems. The 2.0 and 2.5 v6's did not have this weakness and the 2.0 diesel (same engine in bmw 5 series) has the total opposite problem, they are so efficient they struggle getting to normal operating temperature, let alone managing to overheat.

i would check this page, its how u install new speakers in the doors, but before u can do this, u need to remove the pannel, and all this is explained here

http://www.mg-rover.org/howdoi/showart.php?ArtID=439

hope this helps u

proud owner of a rover 75 :-)

Chain

there is only one screw holding on the handle to the door frame this can be removed by removing the small cover the screw is behind this cover its a star shaped screw then pull from the bottom once you have pulled the panel out the cover lift up out of the window lip

Some are in the fusebox by the battery and others are above the fusebox in the passenger footwell.

The thermostat housing is right in the middle of the v of the engine, the injectors, fuel and air inlet has to be removed to get to it, the thermostat is in a sealed housing and the housing does crack slowly and break apart eventually, this will be noticed by water having to be added regularly with no apparent water leaks, the water first leaks in a fine spray and evaporates on the hot engine, later the housing will break open totally and you have sudden loss of all coolant, Never drive a kv engine any distance at all if the overheating signal shows.

Its in the plenum camber. The most idiotic place on the car.

yes

No need to take it out. You can just unplug it or find and remove the correct fuse. Look for FrenchMike - rover forum - and send the webasto pcb to him for repair. Its simple to remove the pcb.

it is on the front of the engine, next to the oil filler cap on the v6 2.5l engine. I am not sure where on any other engine.

If you have a V6 (2.0 or 2.5) then it is probably the VIS motors attached to the upper inlet manifold. They vary which air-plenum chambers are open according to revs and whether or not you are accelerating. One opens at 3000 revs and both at 4000 if I recall correctly. The motors often fail because they become oil-fouled or the micro-switches on the PCB board inside have come loose. They are repairable (see MG-Rover forum). Motors also fail if the butterfly valve or the slide actuator is stiff or seized. The butterfly valve (rearmost actuator) can be easily removed and, if you apply lots of patience, cleaned up. the other is more difficult and messy. The upper-manifold unit is bonded and cannot be taken apart to repair and a new one is very expensive.