Saab

hold down the clear button for 10 seconds.

If its the side blinkers on the fender just grab the light casing push in alittle and at the same time slide while pushing the light casing towards the front of the car then just pull out away from car the light is at the back of that turn the bulb counter clockwise a quarter turn and bulb pops out replace and do all that backwards to install ... Good luck

This is going to be either Expensive or Outrageous, if your problem is actually that it won't crank.

Your first task is to test the starter. Put your car in neutral, set the handbrake and chock the wheels before you do this! It looks like a big can mounted horizontally. There's a little horizontally mounted can right above it - like, a quarter inch above the big can. The little can has three wires coming out of it. One goes to the battery. One is real thin and goes off toward the passenger compartment, and the third goes into the big can. We'll call them the battery wire, the key wire and the starter wire. Get a hunk of 8-gauge wire and strip the ends, then short the battery and starter wires together. If the starter ran, short the battery and key wires. If the engine cranked, the starter's good. If it failed either test, you have the answer: unhook the battery, extract the starter from your car, take it and $108 plus tax to AutoZone, get a new one, put it in and be happy.

If the starter works, pull off the key wire and connect a voltmeter between it and ground. Turn the key to the start position and look for 12 volts, and if you see it keep reading. Here's an old VW driver trick: this wire picks up a ton of resistance from running past hot parts for years and years. What I want you to do, is to turn the key to the "run" position and try shorting the battery wire on the starter to the prong your key wire was on. The engine SHOULD start. If it does, you have two options. The first is kind of a pain: you gotta run a new wire. The lazy way that all the VW drivers use, is to buy a 30-amp foglight relay. It has four prongs: two for the coil, two for the switch. Hook the key wire to one of the coil prongs and ground the other. Connect the switch between the battery wire and the key wire prong on the starter. Then screw the relay to the side of the engine compartment. Relays take very little power to switch on, so this works great.

If you're getting no voltage you either have a broken wire, one that fell off, or you need a new ignition switch. This is also a $100 part.

Yes

22 gal

The company is Hyundai Kia Automotive Group and produces both makes. Hyundai owns controlling interest in Kia Motors but they are two separate companies.

It depends on the year. Fuel tank capacity for a specific year can be found in the Owners Manual under "Specifications". Some examples: 1983 900 (all models): 16.6 US gallons 1987 900 (all models): 16.6 US gallons I can't find a later Owners Manual in my file, but fuel capacity was increased in about 1988. I believe it went to 18.1 gallons.

GM in 1989 invested $600 million in Saab Automobile, giving GM 50% control of Saab. In 2000 GM optioned the remain 50% control for $125 million. In 2010 Mg sold Saab to Spyker.

Certainly. The laws of physics vs. the planning of safety engineers can only go so far. Someone who wasn't wearing a seatbelt, for instance.

However, the odds of dying in a Saab automobile are far less than in nearly all other cars. Take a look at the IIHS safety ratings to confirm this. Saab has been in the top few every year for as long as IIHS has been collecting statistics, over 20 years.

http://www.iihs.org/ratings/

If you don't set the alarm using the remote and lock the car with the key the alarm shouldn't be activated.

Remove the glove box and its behind that

T-55

You hold down the Saab logo and pull the end of the key fob so the actual key comes out. Then inside there is a small rectangle, you use that key you just pulled out to use as a lever so the two pieces of the key come apart, it is a really easy task, you will see the battery and you will know exactly which kind of battery to buy.

0w40 GM requirement LLB-025

Sweden

Yes. There are some fuses in the drivers side of the dash panel. The rest of the fuses are under the hood and contained in a square plastic box. The top is removable, exposing the fuses.

that's the stuff you need!

THERE SHOULD BE AN ACESS HOLE IN THE TRUNK TO GET TO THE FUEL PUMP THAT IS LOCATED IN THE TRUNK.REMOVE FUEL PUMP AND REPLACE WITH NEW PUMP.

Trouble code P0300 means: Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected

Trouble code P0337 means: Crankshaft position sensor "A" low input

Because probably the latches are not properly closes or they might be damaged

with a screwdriver

It probably works the same as my 1995 900 did: Unlatch the two clamps holding the top snugly to the windshield frame, then press the rocker switch which IIRC is on the center console, not far from the gearshift.

The back of the top will lift slightly, allowing the cover over the well the top fits into to raise up (hinged at its rear), then the whole top raises up and folds into the well, finally the cover closes back down.

Its sort of a neat operation to watch, and pretty quick. I often raised or lowered the top while at a red traffic light, and always finished the operation by the time the light turned green. The same rocker switch, pushed in the opposite direction causes the procedure to reverse and raises the top, just leaving you to reclose the windshield frame clasps.

Note there are a couple of builtin safety locks...one prevents operation when in motion, others will warn that you didn't unlatch the latches I think, maybe more.

Stories of how expen$ive repairs could be when the motors or relays went awry, coupled with a few seams starting to look frayed, prompted me to sell the car before I had actualy top problems, while I could get decent $$$ for it. I had read of one guy who had to have the top mechanism worked on a couple or three times, and had spent $5000 on top repairs by the time he gave up and dumped the car.

I bought my 900SE with 105k miles on it for $5400. Kept it 3 years and 35k miles, sold it for $5000. Not bad, driving a really neat looking and handling convertible for about $0.36 a day depreciation...not counting every time anything went wrong and it went to a dealer it ran m at least $1000.

1. Buy new alternator and go to where your car is. I also recommend buying two new alternator belts - neither is a spare, Saab put two on it.

2. Unhook the battery. If the new alternator doesn't have a pulley, use the belts to keep the alternator pulley from turning and break the pulley bolt free.

3. Loosen the two bolts holding the alternator in and push it toward the engine until the belts can be removed. Remember how they went on.

4. Unhook the two wires from it.

5. Remove the two bolts, then lift out the alternator. Careful, they're heavy.

6. If there's no pulley on the new alternator, move it from old to new.

7. Set the alternator in place. Put the bolts in but leave them loose.

8. Put the belts on. If you moved the pulley, tighten its bolt good and tight now.

9. Adjust the belt tension, then tighten the alternator bolts.

10. Reconnect the wires.

11. Hook up the battery.

General Motors did own saab. Now it is owned by Spyker Cars N.V.
Saab is owned by Spyker cars and had a secure future.

All 4 Cylinders are 1-3-4-2 2.5 Liter V6 is 1-2-3-4-5-6 3.0 Liter V6 has Coil Packs Look at this. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-saab-firing-97.htm