Saltwater Swimming Pools

My pool has been surrounded by clay paver's laid on a sand bed for the last 20 years and still looked like new after I gave them a pressure wash.

A salt water swimming pool is a pool that has had salt added to it in order to be able to use the salt in water that is circulated through the filtration system and run it through a chlorinator. This is a set of elements that electronically create chlorine gas that is almost instantly dissolved into the water to sanitise it. The concentration of salt in the water is about 1/8 that of sea water or about the same as that in tears.

Manual says 'Automatic Gas Shutoff' heater probably is not igniting. Should call your pool man. Manual recommends not to light manually. Please don't try (if you like your eyebrows) :-)

No. You are covered with skin. The pool water if it is unbalanced can have a negative effect on anything that contains calcium, but only if it is in the acid range, then you would see the effect on plaster, metal and teeth. Keep in mind this is a very extreme case but is has happened at least once that I have seen documented. If your swimming with an exposed back its never a good idea and not because of the bone issue but because of an infection issue.

Use Permiculite as opposed to any of the above. Perlite is basically the same as verlite. It's troweled in the same manner, only cheaper. Vermiculite is nearly exclusive to pools only, making it harder to buy and more expensive. Perlite is used for several different applications and can be purchased at builders supply stores.

The preferable time for me would circulate before, during and after use. Filter the body of water a minimum of once per day - - and filter up to about 2 hrs after use.

K

In Los Angeles or Beverly hills or in Tucson,Texas where ever buy check in www.luxury property.com

You can but is not recommended. Rock salt takes longer to dissolve and it can stain your pool because it contains impurities.

A salt water system creates chlorine, which, in theory, should prevent algae growth. Chlorine levels must be tested at least once a week. During the hottest part of the summer, levels should be between 4 and 5 ppm. Yet algae can survive in these high levels of chlorine if there are phosphates in the water. Think of phosphates as a food source for algae. As long as they are well fed, they can survive high chlorine levels. Most pool stores can test for presence of phosphates. They will probably advise you to first treat your pool with an algaecide, then treat the phosphates.

You can swim in a pool without chlorine or salt they just keep the pool clean. but if you do it can give you bad skin

Why would you consider a Salt System for a Country Club? With the exposure to liability of a community pool you should consider the best available technology. Salt generated chlorine or chlorine, does not affect Cryptosporidium or Giardia, two common pool bacteria. Both contaminates are frequently litigated in exposure lawsuits. In 06, The State of NY, Six Flags, and many hotel chains faced significant law suits due to "Crypto" exposure. The result of salt generated chlorine versus liquid or tabs is that the bacteria that is affected takes longer to inactivate. Exposure to e coli in a chlorine pool is about 96 hours, a salt system pool is about 160 hours and a UV pool is within 2 seconds of passing the bulb. Ultraviolet Technology was recently identified in the World Health Organization - Healty Pool Guidelines; as the ONLY pool sanitizer that destroys Crypto and giardia without generating harmful Chemical Disinfection By Products. visit www.halcyonRx.com to learn more and read the guidelines. UV Technology provides greater destruction of harmful bacteria while cutting chemical use by as much as 95%. Much healthier, cleaner pool and, in your case reduced liability. It is the best available technology at about the same cost! Jon Laliberte (jonla@halcyontec.com)

Although one bag of shock does treat usually 10,00 gallons, that is assuming a clear pool to start with. Since you had an algae infestation, more shock will be required. A simple rule of thumb is when treating problem water to double or even triple shock the pool. Simply put, there wasn't enough shock there to finish the job. Test your water for chorine. Most shocks are chlorine based. If your chlorine is low or zero, it will confirm the need for more shock.

Yes, although it would take a lot of time and effort it could possibly be fixed.

So long as the proper free chlorine levels are maintained you should have nothing to worry about. That is what the chlorine is meant to do.

it depends how much you drink...like if you drank a gallon of salt water, yes you would puke your guts out

Yes. to make sure your pool stays clean. All pools should be coverd because bugs fly in in the night. Also salt water evaporates .

Check your stabilizer level (or conditioner) it should be 40-60 PPM. Next check your salt level, should be 3000-3600 PPM. If their both in line; make sure your chlorinating cell is clean. If there is algae in your pool you must shock it with regular chlorine. See instructions on label.

Salt water is a very efficient electrical conductor, in pool applications the current used is low voltage DC to prevent high voltage AC electrocution. In the chlorine generators electronics circuit board there is a DC current sensor set with a value of -/+. If the salt content is low it takes more current to pass through and an alarm would indicate to add more salt. If the salt content is to high, current passes through to easy and alarm would indicate to remove salt.

Yes Boston pools are open

Yes you should run your pool at least 12 hours a day.

by using ac.

Sure, just throw it in....

Normally caused by calcium build up or caclcification. Prevetion and cures can be found on my blog.See the link on this message Permanent brown stains are usually caused by "iron". Rebar attached to the pool exterior and encapsulated in bottom of a concrete deck is the usual suspect. Another cause, which can be reversed, is an older heater. If a heater is involved, have the headers and impellers checked for iron. If they're iron, have them changed-out, then try a sequestering agent following the directions. Permanent stains in fiberglass pools are caused by either iron (brown), chlorophyl (green), or air holes caused by failing gel coat (black).