Subaru Legacy

The thermostat is located under the engine, driver side very close to the front. There are 2 small bolts you need to remove to take out the housing. Be prepared for falling coolant. :) Good Luck Where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine. Don't bother looking in the Haynes manual. The answers are not there for that engine, only the other models. Once you see it, you will know it. If it is overheating, bleed the system (bleed screw is on top, passenger side under the intake)before you start replacing parts. This is common on these engines because the water pump can draw in air at high RPM's and corrupt the system. If you have a consistent air problem, the water pump may need to be changed. Radiators have been known to collapse after a lot of miles also in the Subaru Legacy models. Check the cooling fan operations and all of the other standard checks before you give up. Many times it is something simple. Just don't let it get so hot that you blow a head gasket. Good luck.

Timing belt ok? pull covers and check timing belt and timing marks. compression test would also tell . for engine to run you need fuel, spark, and compression. you have two of the three ingredients for combustion? Good luck

Legacy is a powerful concept and there are many people throughout history who have left significant legacies behind. Here are 5 people who have had an impact on society and left a lasting legacy:

• Martin Luther King Jr.
• Nelson Mandela
• Abraham Lincoln
• Mother Teresa
• Mahatma Gandhi

These five figures have all made a huge impact in the world and will continue to inspire people to create a better future for generations to come.

255/65-16

subaru legacy automatik 2475 cm petrol

5w30. the oil fill cap usually will say but all newer vehicles require 5w30.

Frederick Drumston on 1423.

The fuse for the front windshield wipers should be located under the dash on the drivers side, in the fuse panel just in front of the door. Looking at my 1991 Subaru factory manual, I don't see a relay that is specific to the front windshield wipers. The back windshield wiper has a relay that is on top of the right rear wheel well, just behind the right rear speaker. Here's some help with diagnosing your windshield wiper issues... If the windshield wipers do not operate... A) in all positions: 1) Blown M/B or F/B fuse 2) Wiper switch 3) Wiper Motor 4) Wiper Link 5) Improper grounding 6) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections B) in INT position: 1) Wiper switch 2) Intermitent unit (built into wiper switch) 3) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections C) in Low or High positions: 1) Wiper switch 2) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections D) in Mist mode: 1) Wiper Switch 2) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections

What year legacy? If it's in '95-2000 year range, it's likely in the left rear access panel....for sure on Outbacks as I installed on my '97. Rumor is the newer ones are same. Good luck.

2 hours with a coffee break. 45 minutes if ambitious.

no

its under the drivers side dashboard above the petals (if you have sunroof) there are two rectangles that have fuses in them they just dangle there one of them is for the sunroof one is for the alarm (if no sunroof) then there is only one of them dangling i found that out when my alarm keep going off every 5 min

annuity, apportionment, bequest

You should take out the fans to get more room to work with, loosen the alternator to remove the belt covers. After this has been done, the crank pulley needs to be removed to get to the crank shaft markings for the timing. The timing marks for the left and right pulleys are dead center on the top, make sure to mark the positions on the pulleys and the notches. The crank pulley has a marking top dead center, and another marking counterclockwise that you have to match up. How to make that match up without moving the other two pulleys, I haven't a clue because no one else has answered this question. If someone else finds out, please add on to this.

belt

If a bolt is stripped on the windshield wiper on a 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon, there are two options. A person can go to a salvage yard and purchase new wipers for the vehicle, or they can have the bolt hole tapped for a larger bolt.

I replaced a key on an older car (a Chevy) by taking the VIN number and Title (to prove ownership) into a dealer who was able to cut a new key. Call your local Subaru dealer and find out if they can do the same.

I'm 99% positive that Subaru put the alternators in the same place on all their cars (engineconfiguration. I currently own three subarus: 94 legacy sedan, 96 legacy outback wagon and 09 impreza wrx sedan. All the alternators are in the same spot for all my cars. I'm pretty it's the same case for yours. I was able to remove and reinstall a new one on my 94 sedan in less than 20 minutes. I hope that this help. Here are the steps to removing and installing an alternator on a subaru.

1) Remove the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket or a 10mm wrench. Once the terminal is off tuck it to the side so it does not touch the negative terminal of the battery.

2) Remove the alternator pulley/fan belt cover. On the legacy sedans and outbacks the cover is metal and it covers the top of the fan belts. There are two 10mm bolts that hold this cover in place.

3) Look for a round plug (usually green on subarus) and unplug it from the alternator. Next pull the cap off of the red terminal on the alternator and use a 10mm socket to remove the nut. Once the nut is off pull the cable out from the terminal. The new alternator usually comes with this nut in place but I would still save it just to be safe.

4) Look for the two long bolts that hold the alternator to the brackets attached to the engine. One is to loosen the alternator from the belt (goes up and down). The other bolt holds the alternator in place at the other end. Both these bolts need to come off in order for the alternator to be pulled out.

5) Once the old one is out. Install the new one in reverse order.

The voltage is lacking when you are not pressing on the gas... while pressing on the gas.. you are giving the headlights more electricity...

The CEL comes on because the on board diagnostics is sensing a problem. There are hundreds of causes for the CEL, some can be totally ignored (in that they won't cause a worse problem); others should be addressed or you could end up stranded roadside. Some, if not addressed will cause lower gas mileage, and soon you'll pay more in gas than the cost of the repair (and still have that annoying light on).

If you pay a mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem, he should reset the CEL.

You could stop by an auto parts store (AutoZone, Kragen) and have them scan the code and reset it. Ask if it's free before they do it.

If like many Subaru owners, you have something other to do on a daily basis than check and reset the CEL, you could buy an OBDII scanner ($50-$150) to (check the code) and reset the light manually. My Forester light comes on about 3 times per year, usually with a new problem that is never less than $250.

In my experience, ultimately, you want to sell the Subaru.

Sure would not idle smoothly with misfires on cylinders 1 and 3.

You likely have a high voltage ignition problem. I'd start with spark plugs and spark plug wires especially if you don't know when the wires and plugs were last replaced.

You may have a defective ignition coil but I'd go with the plugs and wires first. None of these is terribly expensive and you can buy everything after-market for just over $100. As car maintenance items go, these are relatively easy for the home mechanic to replace.

Short of a vague wiring problem there are two(2) high probability causes: 1) the obvious, appropriate fuse, and 2) a cigarette lighter socket fusible safety device. The latter is on the rear of the socket (or built into it), designed to fail and break the current flow (i.e. heating) if the socket gets too hot, as may occur when the plug is held in, or sticks. It also may fail from extensive use, over time. The appropriate fix for the socket failure is to replace the socket, utilizing standard electrical safety practices, and making sure the new socket and "plug" are compatible.

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