Also known as the Alcyone SVX, the Subaru SVX was a mid-sized coupe produced between 1991 and 1997. It was powered by a 3.3 L EG33 flat-6 engine and equipped with a 4-speed automatic 4EAT transmission.
Asked in Auto Parts and Repairs, Subaru SVX
Subaru svx manual transmission?
The SVX was, unfortunately, never available with a manual transmission. The SVX does however use the Subaru EG33 flat 6 engine that is derived from the EJ22 flat 4 engine. Manual transmissions for the EJ22 can are compatible with the EG33 and are commonly swapped in. Subaru Legacy manual transmissions from '95 and '96 bolt directly on to the EG33 but body mounts and drive shafts must be modified to complete the swap. It is worth noting that a few SVXs were produced with front wheel drive to lower cost in an attempt to increase sales in '94 and '95. Obviously, if you want a manual in the front wheel drive version you won't be able to use a transmission from another Subaru as they all have all wheel drive.
Asked in Subaru SVX, Spark Plugs and Wires
Does the 92 subaru svx has spark plug wire and coil?
How do you replace a timing belt on a 1992 Subaru SVX?
Remove electric fans Remove timing belt covers Get belt from Subaru (don't use aftermarket belts) Line marks on belt up with marks on crank and cam pulleys Turn engine over by hand two rotations Make sure marks still line up Reassemble While you're in there, good idea to replace the cam and crank seals It's not an easy job, and is best left to a qualified certified Subaru techncian unless you are mechanically inclined (I'd recommend at least getting an owner's workshop manual before attempting it) For a more in-depth guide, see www.subaru-svx.net
Asked in Subaru SVX
Where is the fuel filter on a 92 subaru svx?
it is on passanger side of engine. its a cup shape device with fuel lines coming in and out. its black with clamps on it. u cant miss just look. Answer Scott here, on my 92 svx it is located along the edge of driverside about halfway up. It is upright with two bent straw like stems on the top pointing slightly away from each other in the general direction of the engine. both stems protrude rubberhoses similar to the diameter of a tripple a battery. One line extends downward and the other travles to the left ending at the top right side of the engine. When replacing the filter you should also replace the factory crimp type fasteners on the hoses with screw type hose clamps. Before replacing the fuel filter, you need to disconnect the power to the fuelpump to relieve the pressure in the line. To do this, disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump, which is under the passenger side of the back seat.
Where can you find a new power window relay or even switch the circuit breaker for a 1992 Subaru SVX?
Why is your 1992 SVX shutting down in the middle of driving and then can start right back up?
The first thing to check is the fuel filter. If clogged replace. The next item would be the fuel pump going bad. Remove & test. Replace as necessary. Also, spray off the Mass Air Sensor with appropriate cleaner. The first thing to check is the fuel filter. If clogged replace. The next item would be the fuel pump going bad. Remove & test. Replace as necessary. Also, spray off the Mass Air Sensor with appropriate cleaner. The first thing to check is the fuel filter. If clogged replace. The next item would be the fuel pump going bad. Remove & test. Replace as necessary. Also, spray off the Mass Air Sensor with appropriate cleaner. The first thing to check is the fuel filter. If clogged replace. The next item would be the fuel pump going bad. Remove & test. Replace as necessary. Also, spray off the Mass Air Sensor with appropriate cleaner. The first thing to check is the fuel filter. If clogged replace. The next item would be the fuel pump going bad. Remove & test. Replace as necessary. Also, spray off the Mass Air Sensor with appropriate cleaner.
Where is the AWD transmission fuse located on the Subaru SVX?
There is not an actual AWD transmission fuse. On SVX's equipped with AWD, this is the default configuration. There is an empty slot in the fuse box (located under the hood on the right side) that is labeled FWD. This slot is normally unoccupied and allows the AWD system to operate. Putting a 10A fuse into this empty slot disengages the AWD and puts the car into FWD mode only. This is used mainly for diagnostic and servicing purposes only. This slot (normally empty) can be found on the right side of the fuse box, 2nd from the bottom, above the 10A A/C fuse. Then there is the VTD tranny, which uses a planetary gear centre differential with TCU controlled hydraulic multi-plate limited slip clutch. This one does not have the FWD fuse, since it's full time AWD. This has a Diff Lock Fuse, which locks the differential if you put the fuse in.
Asked in Subaru SVX
Does the Subaru SVX have an interference engine?
No. All Subaru SVX's use the EG33 3.3L, H-6 engine. This horizontally-opposed engine design is a NON-interference engine. If the timing belt were to break while running, the engine would just stop. No damage would be done to the valves, pistons, or other internals Subaru recommends timing belt replacement at 60,000 miles (105,000 miles on California models)
Asked in Subaru SVX
How do you change the spark plugs on a Subaru SVX 3.3L engine?
The procedure is exactly the same for ALL SVX engines Take a deep breath and settle in, it's a long process. You'll need the obvious tools: * Ratchet * Spark Plug Socket (5/8") * Three-inch and six-inch extensions. * 12mm boxed end wrench (the longer the better). * Retrieval tool (I use the claw type - the magnetic type works also) is helpful when you drop extensions, sockets, etc. * Pry bar for easing out the coils (a small one with a slight bend on the flat end * Flat bladed screwdriver is also a helpful tool. I used one to separate my ratchet from the extension so I could finish backing out the plugs by hand. * 10mm socket or flat wrench to remove your battery terminals. PREPARATION Remove the battery. Remove the air filter box. It is easier if you remove the entire box complete with bracket. One of the bolts in the bracket also goes through the bracket of the ABS unit, but, if you just remove the bolt on that one corner, the bracket on the air box should just slide out. I saved the worst for first (rearmost driver's side). It's in the tightest spot. Undo the 12 mm bolt that holds each coil pack. Don't pull it all the way out. Back it out until the threads begin to emerge from the coil pack housing (you'll need to pull on this to pop the coil pack out). Once the bolt has reached this point, begin to pull on the bolt. If the coil doesn't pop off, keep backing out the bolt until it does. If you back the bolt all the way out and the coil doesn't come out, then, screw the bolt back in about half way. Remember the pry bar? Take the slightly bent end and place it on the shoulder of the bolt, then, using the engine block for leverage, gently pry against the bolt. It won't take much pressure to pop it out. It is very rare that they come off, but, once the coil is out, check to make sure the rubber boot is still on the end of the coil. If it isn't, you'll need to fish it out, possibly with a very long screwdriver. It'll be difficult to check this one, because there's only one place you can put it to get it out of the way, and that's to your left, up in the little recess left from pulling the coil. Try to make sure you don't stress the wires, or pry against them (coils are expensive) If you have to fish out a boot, make sure you don't damage it. The only way you can replace the boot is either by knowing someone who has one, or by buying a new coil. With the coil pack out of the way, remove the access plug from the fender well (Just look right across from the place you removed the coil - it's also interesting that this access hole is not mentioned in the service manual - the manual is totally sketchy about a plug change). You should now be able to push you wrench with a six-inch extension and your plug socket through the hole in the fender well - yeah, it's a pain, but, believe me, it'll still be easier than trying to do it without it (if you need to get the tire out of the way, just jack your car up a few inches). The recess will practically guide your socket to the plug. This is where "normal" kind of takes over. Just back out the plug like you would normally. When it gets to a point where it's loose enough, take the ratchet off of the extension and back it the rest of the way with your fingers, so you can feel when it's coming out. Then, put in your fresh plug. Make sure you start the plug by using just your extension and your fingertips - you don't want to cross-thread the plug. Luckily, the plug practically threads itself if you do it gently. (Note: I did not re-gap my plugs. They came factory gapped at .040. The recommended gap is from .039 to .043. I figured .040 was good enough for "middle ground," plus, I didn't want to take a chance on damaging any of the platinum bits - they look fragile). Once you've gotten the plug as tight as you can get it with your fingers, then, attach the ratchet and tighten her down. Torque spec is 14-22 ft.lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench, I trusted my instincts. If you've changed plugs before, you can feel the "not too tight, not too loose" point. Now, all that's left is replacing the coil. Once you've taken it off, it's easy to figure out how to put it back on. Don't forget to put the access plug back in - you'd hate to be throwing water into the engine bay on rainy days. The rest of the plugs are similar. Working toward the front, your next is a bit of a bear, but, you can use your three-inch extension and the coil is easier to get out of the way. Of course, the front driver's side is the easiest. You'll have the most room here. Moving to the other side, again, the access hole will make the work easier on the rearmost plug. The coil is easily moved out of the way. If you've removed the bracket for the air box, your job should be pretty much a piece of cake from here on out. Once you've gotten that first "bear" plug out, then (or this is how it worked for me), your confidence level will be up enough to complete the job. Again, be careful of boots, wiring, etc. and, DO NOT put "never seize" compound on the plugs. It's a big no-no, both from Subaru and from NGK. The temperature of our engines makes the compound too hard. Pieces could possibly fall into the plug holes and into the cylinders - definitely not good.
Asked in Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Subaru SVX
How do you remove a 97 subaru svx door panel?
First lift out the carpet from the arm rest well to reveal 3 screws - undo. Then lift internal door release handle and remove small panel to reveal another screw- undo. Then unscrew two screws near 'A' pillar . gently pull the door card poppers out starting with the bottom one furthest away from the 'A' pillar, moving towards the 'A' pillar, and up the latch side, pushing the lock button gently inwards as you lift the card up and towards you.
Asked in Subaru SVX
What does a 1992 Subaru SVX coil pack look like?
The 92 SVX uses individual coils for each spark plug, so there are 6 of these total. Each of these is held in place with a 12MM bolt and once this bolt is fully loosened, carefully remove the coil and if replacing, then unplug (2 pin) connector. I say be careful as the two wires leading into the coil are not very hearty and because these individual coils are so long, it takes a little bit of manipulating to get them out of the spark plug bore, and if you are not gentle about it, these wires can be easily broken. Hope this helps.
Asked in Subaru SVX
What is the grinding noise from the engine of 1994 subaru svx?
Asked in Subaru SVX
How do you remove the radiator from a 1997 Subaru svx?
The radiator removal procedure is exactly the same for all SVX's from 1992-1997. Raise the car into the air (either using a lift or jacking up the front of the car and using jack stands) Remove the bottom plastic undercover (if attached by removing the 7 bolts) This allows you access to the bottom radiator hoses and ATF lines. Disconnect the 2 small ATF hoses from the radiator, remembering their location. Also remove the lower radiator hose. Lower the car to have access to the engine compartment. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. Unplug the electrical connectors from the cooling fans, which are mounted to the radiator. Remove the two bolts from the radiator mounting bracket. One end is bolted to the radiator support and the other end has a rubber grommet which fits over posts on the radiator. Once the bracket is removed, just lift it up and pull it out (The bottom of the radiator has pins which just into mounting holes in the frame) If you are replacing the radiator with a new one, unbolt the 2 cooling fans from the old radiator and install them on the new radiator. Installation in the reverse order. Note: Now is a good time to replace the lower radiator hose and the two rubber ATF lines, along with new clamps. Check their condition and replace as necessary. The heat from the engine tends to dry the hoses out and make them hard and prone to leaking. Once the radiator is in, it would be wise to replace the upper radiator hose as well. Here are the Subaru part numbers for the hoses: Upper Radiator Hose 45167PA000 Lower Radiator hose 45167PA020 ATF Hose IN 45521PA03 ATF Hose OUT 45521PA041 For the ATF hoses you can by High Pressure ATF hose by the foot at your local auto parts store considerably cheaper.
Asked in Subaru SVX
Your 1996 subaru svx is making a squealing noise mostly when you turn and push on the gas what is it?
The most likely cause of a squeal as you described is the serpentine belt slipping on a pulley. The best way to find the pulley in question is to fire up the car when the engine is fully cooled, then do whatever it takes to make the squeal happen. I.E., if you turn the wheels. Then, after the squeal has happened for about 5 to 10 seconds, turn off the engine and quickly place your hand on all the separate pulleys. The warmest one is your culprit. If it's the alternator, replace it. If it's an idler pulley or the tensioner pulley, you may only need to replace the bearing, not the assembly. Good luck. Gene W. iATN Sponsor.
Asked in Subaru Forester, Subaru Outback, Subaru SVX
Who wrote the song in the 2009 Subaru Forrester Commercial?
Asked in Subaru SVX
Is a 1992 Subaru SVX a reliable vehicle?
I can only speak about a 1994 SVX Lsi. I bought mine new on Dec. 31, 1994 and still am driving it in January, 2011., with 122K miles on it. It has been an outstanding car. I drove it for 7 years, year-round, and then as a winter-only car for 5 years, and now as a year-round car again. It has only required wheel bearing replacement all-round, new rotors on the front at 90K and new tires and oil as normal. It still looks great--fully galvanized body structure resists rust like nobody's business--and the Giugiaro-inspired design is as distinctive as when it was built.