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Subaru SVX

Also known as the Alcyone SVX, the Subaru SVX was a mid-sized coupe produced between 1991 and 1997. It was powered by a 3.3 L EG33 flat-6 engine and equipped with a 4-speed automatic 4EAT transmission.

134 Questions

Subaru svx idle and stalling problems?

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If you are having trouble with your Subaru, let us take a look. Visit us at our Subaru of Bend dealership in OR or contact us through our website.

Does it hurt to run in fwd all the time in a Subaru SVX?

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No. The svx is a all wheel drive vehicle. In order to put the 1992 subaru svx in front wheel drive only you have to put a fuse in the fwd fuse slot located behind the ac fuse slot. The fuse box is under the hood behind the battery.

Your 1996 subaru svx is making a squealing noise mostly when you turn and push on the gas what is it?

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The most likely cause of a squeal as you described is the serpentine belt slipping on a pulley. The best way to find the pulley in question is to fire up the car when the engine is fully cooled, then do whatever it takes to make the squeal happen. I.E., if you turn the wheels. Then, after the squeal has happened for about 5 to 10 seconds, turn off the engine and quickly place your hand on all the separate pulleys. The warmest one is your culprit. If it's the alternator, replace it. If it's an idler pulley or the tensioner pulley, you may only need to replace the bearing, not the assembly. Good luck. Gene W. iATN Sponsor.

Where is the egr valve on a 1994 subaru svx Lsi?

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Underneath the intake manifold

WHAT MAKES A 1992 subaru sVx keep stalling?

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Mass air flow sensor

How do you change the spark plugs on a Subaru SVX 3.3L engine?

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The procedure is exactly the same for ALL SVX engines

Take a deep breath and settle in, it's a long process. You'll need the obvious tools: * Ratchet * Spark Plug Socket (5/8") * Three-inch and six-inch extensions. * 12mm boxed end wrench (the longer the better). * Retrieval tool (I use the claw type - the magnetic type works also) is helpful when you drop extensions, sockets, etc. * Pry bar for easing out the coils (a small one with a slight bend on the flat end * Flat bladed screwdriver is also a helpful tool. I used one to separate my ratchet from the extension so I could finish backing out the plugs by hand. * 10mm socket or flat wrench to remove your battery terminals. PREPARATION Remove the battery. Remove the air filter box. It is easier if you remove the entire box complete with bracket. One of the bolts in the bracket also goes through the bracket of the ABS unit, but, if you just remove the bolt on that one corner, the bracket on the air box should just slide out. I saved the worst for first (rearmost driver's side). It's in the tightest spot. Undo the 12 mm bolt that holds each coil pack. Don't pull it all the way out. Back it out until the threads begin to emerge from the coil pack housing (you'll need to pull on this to pop the coil pack out). Once the bolt has reached this point, begin to pull on the bolt. If the coil doesn't pop off, keep backing out the bolt until it does. If you back the bolt all the way out and the coil doesn't come out, then, screw the bolt back in about half way. Remember the pry bar? Take the slightly bent end and place it on the shoulder of the bolt, then, using the engine block for leverage, gently pry against the bolt. It won't take much pressure to pop it out. It is very rare that they come off, but, once the coil is out, check to make sure the rubber boot is still on the end of the coil. If it isn't, you'll need to fish it out, possibly with a very long screwdriver. It'll be difficult to check this one, because there's only one place you can put it to get it out of the way, and that's to your left, up in the little recess left from pulling the coil. Try to make sure you don't stress the wires, or pry against them (coils are expensive)

If you have to fish out a boot, make sure you don't damage it. The only way you can replace the boot is either by knowing someone who has one, or by buying a new coil. With the coil pack out of the way, remove the access plug from the fender well (Just look right across from the place you removed the coil - it's also interesting that this access hole is not mentioned in the service manual - the manual is totally sketchy about a plug change).

You should now be able to push you wrench with a six-inch extension and your plug socket through the hole in the fender well - yeah, it's a pain, but, believe me, it'll still be easier than trying to do it without it (if you need to get the tire out of the way, just jack your car up a few inches). The recess will practically guide your socket to the plug. This is where "normal" kind of takes over. Just back out the plug like you would normally. When it gets to a point where it's loose enough, take the ratchet off of the extension and back it the rest of the way with your fingers, so you can feel when it's coming out. Then, put in your fresh plug.

Make sure you start the plug by using just your extension and your fingertips - you don't want to cross-thread the plug. Luckily, the plug practically threads itself if you do it gently.(Note: I did not re-gap my plugs. They came factory gapped at .040. The recommended gap is from .039 to .043. I figured .040 was good enough for "middle ground," plus, I didn't want to take a chance on damaging any of the platinum bits - they look fragile).

Once you've gotten the plug as tight as you can get it with your fingers, then, attach the ratchet and tighten her down. Torque spec is 14-22 ft.lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench, I trusted my instincts. If you've changed plugs before, you can feel the "not too tight, not too loose" point. Now, all that's left is replacing the coil. Once you've taken it off, it's easy to figure out how to put it back on. Don't forget to put the access plug back in - you'd hate to be throwing water into the engine bay on rainy days.

The rest of the plugs are similar. Working toward the front, your next is a bit of a bear, but, you can use your three-inch extension and the coil is easier to get out of the way. Of course, the front driver's side is the easiest. You'll have the most room here.

Moving to the other side, again, the access hole will make the work easier on the rearmost plug. The coil is easily moved out of the way. If you've removed the bracket for the air box, your job should be pretty much a piece of cake from here on out. Once you've gotten that first "bear" plug out, then (or this is how it worked for me), your confidence level will be up enough to complete the job.

Again, be careful of boots, wiring, etc. and, DO NOT put "never seize" compound on the plugs. It's a big no-no, both from Subaru and from NGK. The temperature of our engines makes the compound too hard. Pieces could possibly fall into the plug holes and into the cylinders - definitely not good.

1992 SVX No reverse but goes forward OK What could it be?

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It could be the throttle position sensor.. Mine SVX had the same problem but if you want to get a quick fix, try this: Start engine Put to reverse Give it some revs AND WATCH THERES NOTHING BEHIND YOU!!! It just might jump back to its place, mine did. And you might want to check the trnsmission oils etc..

Where is the fuel filter on a 92 subaru svx?

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it is on passanger side of engine. its a cup shape device with fuel lines coming in and out. its black with clamps on it. u cant miss just look.

AnswerScott here, on my 92 svx it is located along the edge of driverside about halfway up. It is upright with two bent straw like stems on the top pointing slightly away from each other in the general direction of the engine. both stems protrude rubberhoses similar to the diameter of a tripple a battery. One line extends downward and the other travles to the left ending at the top right side of the engine. When replacing the filter you should also replace the factory crimp type fasteners on the hoses with screw type hose clamps.

Before replacing the fuel filter, you need to disconnect the power to the fuelpump to relieve the pressure in the line. To do this, disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump, which is under the passenger side of the back seat.

Where is the 1992 subaru svx speed sensor?

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The left side of the bell housing

How to remove door panel from 95 Subaru SVX?

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not exactly sure if its the same as a 92 subaru svx but if it is then there are 2 screws on the far right and one in the place you put your hand. then lift up and it should come right off.

When was Subaru Alcyone SVX created?

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Subaru Alcyone SVX was created in 1991.

Location of erg valve on 1992 subaru svx?

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Its the Egr valve, and its located right under the coil pack on the passenger side of the vehicle. Its circular and that all you can see from the top

Where can you find a wiring diagram for a 92 Subaru SVX for free?

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Try Subaru technical advice on 0121 747 4000 and ask them for a fax copy(no emails!) PS they're on lunch 12.30 - 1.30 What luxury!

Spark plug location of a Subaru svx?

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The spark plugs are located, 3 on each side of the engine right along the inside of the wheel well. They are recessed inside the valve cover and require the individual ignition coils to be removed to gain access to the plugs.