Swimming Pools

Damage you hair is more like it. The chlorine is very bad for your hair and should be rinsed after swimming. A: Not a good idea to shampoo in the hair in the pool. You are contaminating the water.

I'm in the pool service business and maintain both salt water and traditional pools in the Las Vegas Valley. While there are not many wild animals in the city, I have not noticed any difference in the number of "urban" critters (i.e. birds, bugs, dogs, cats, squirrels, etc) visiting my salt water pools versus my traditional pools. A: a salt water pool are one and the same. The only difference is that the chlorine is made in the pool the other is that the chlorine is added by hand - - - manually.

Magnets won't work as effectively as their rap. You may want to try Wellan2000 water collar device which is non-magnetic. I have it installed in my complex in Florida and the results are very good. This system won't allow Fe and 02 to see each other in the water, that means no rust. The current rust will be cleared within a few weeks.

Black Algae presents in 1 to 3cm black (or dark blue green) spots, It forms in a layers. the first layer may be killed by chlorine but protects further layers from destruction. This form of algae is slow growing and hardy. It is extremely chlorine resistant. to treat Black algae. Turn of the pump,Brush the algae spots thoroughly with a hard brush. then use chlorine tablets to treat the algae spots individually (this is not recommended for vinyl pools). Pour a concentrated all purpose algaecide on the algae spots. Leave it overnight. Restore water circulation, brush dead algae and vacuum it to waste. You may have to repeat the process .when you are finished, check the water balance shock the pool and make sure that you keep the chlorine up to it to help prevent further out breaks.

Excess algaecide in a swimming pool can be harmful if ingested or if it comes into contact with skin, eyes, or mucous membranes. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for adding algaecide to ensure that the water remains safe for swimming. If you suspect the algaecide levels are too high, it's best to consult a professional pool technician for guidance on how to correct the imbalance.

Take a sample to a pool store with a "water chemistry certified" tech. They can tell you exactly what is missing. Normally pools need stabalizer, chlorine, acid and soda. Extra chems are used to rid or avoid problems

If your pool filter is up and running, also it is best to clean the walls and floor if you have a normal to high chlorine level because this will be also your cleaning agent. Take a soft bristle brush, get in the pool and start cleaning, all the above should come off. it is better if the filter is running so you can vac out the dirt, when the dirt goes to the bottom of the pool.

The maximum chlorine that a public pool can have in it and be open for use is 7.0 ppm. You could wait for it to come down on it's own or you can use a declor to bring it down. This is the rule for the state of Indiana deptartment of health.

The floor of a swimming pool would appear flat from the top, assuming the pool has a level base. However, the floor may look distorted or rippled due to the water's surface tension, reflections, and refractions.

UV sanitizers are effective at neutralizing bacteria, viruses, and some algae by breaking down their DNA. However, they may not be as effective against algae that is already established in the pool. Regular brushing and proper circulation are essential to prevent algae growth in hard-to-reach areas that UV light may not reach effectively.

Aah. It's gas. The 750mv makes more sense now. I figure you're trying to hook up the gas control valve. You should have a supply, some sort of controller, and the valve. If you wire them in series, they should work. However, I'm running off very little information. If I knew what exactly you had (As in the electric devices you are trying to wire) I could go into more detail.

To give you an accurate answer, it's important to know how many gallons are in the pool, how high is your Free Available Chlorine (FAC), and what is your Combined Chlorine Reading. Is pool enclosed and protected from sun etc? Is your chlorine generator working properly? You could simply shut down the generator and test your pool everyday at the same time. Keep records of pH, Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, Alkalinity, etc. It's important that you maintain a proper pH at ALL TIMES.

Initially, you can't. What you do to lower alkalinity is first lower the pH to under 7.2, but not lower than 6.9. Then you aerate the pool, by creating bubbles with your brush, or by running a water feature, if you have one. This will lower your alkalinity. Maintain this lower pH and aerating until you get your alkalinity where you want it. Then retest your pH. If it is now too low, you add Mule Team Borax, say a 1/4 a cup, and then retest. The borax will raise your pH without raising your alkalinity. See the poolforum.com for more help if needed.

I had the same problem. Pool experts couldn't help and recommended an acid wash. Quote for acid wash was $450.00 without a guarantee stains would be removed! I searched the web and stumbled on this site, and my pool is now sparkling clean, no stains! There is a simple "sock test" you can take to see if this will work for you and then basically for copper and iron stains you need to almost completely lower your PH and chlorine and then brush stains away. Its as easy as that! For details and step by step procedure go to the following website. You can even email the guy questions and he gets right back to you. http://askalanaquestion.com/pool_stain_problems.htm

If the chlorine generator inst run sufficient time or there is a period where an exesive amount of bio material enters the water a litle additional chlorine may at times be an advantage rather then run the filtration equipment longer.

Free chlorine is the sanitizing portion of chlorine. You may not want to reduce that. Are the levels excessive? There is a product which reduces or eliminates chlorine but beware. Not a good product if you use too much. What are your readings?

You can clear cloudy pool water by testing and balancing the water chemistry, filtering the water regularly, and using a clarifier or flocculant to help remove small particles. It's also important to regularly clean the pool and its filtration system to prevent cloudy water from returning.

Add the well water, they sell a chemical that removes minerals after you fill it.

When filling pool with well water, I put a thick white sock over end of garden hose. I also have a filter on my well pump and the sock helped tremendously! I was told to do this by the pool store clerk where I take my start up water sample. Much easier to maintain this year after start up.

I have a well with very high iron content. I've tried cartrige filters they didn't work. Made the water real clear. But if you add bleach to your wash, you will have nice looking red socks that use to be white. I have found that a sand filter will clean the rust form my well water. No more red socks for me unless they are store bought. Anyway my sand filter is a concrete box with two resivores one for clean water the other for the rusty stuff. I have two pumps one to pump the dirty water in the other to pump the clean water out. The dirty water side has two tons of sand and gravel that I picked up a the concrete place in the town near me. About a half a ton of small pea size smooth gravel in the bottom and ton and a half of sand on top of that. The berrier wall has 5 small holes about six inches from the bottom. Dirty water goes in on top through the sand, through the gravel, and out the holes to make clean water. The sand and gravel cost me about $45. and I had to haul it my self. You could make a smaller version out of a 55 gallon barrol and a little sand and gravel. But If your looking to fill your pool, Plan on a lot of work to do it this way. Sorry, If That didn't help much.

Get your water tested and in check. You have too many solids in the water. Start brushing your pool daily as you correct the chemical imbalance. This will help loosen and remove the crystals from your pool.

NEW ANSWER::

Brushing will do little for removing those crystals. The cause of the crystals was from water that has been neglected chemically. Improper levels or lack of chemicals -- either way you've got a major problem. Draining, acid washing and sanding may correct. The chemical imbalance took some time to end up with these results. You will most likely not completely remove these salt crystals or stalagtights ( as in caves) as I call them. If you can have the problem corrected you will have to stay on top of the pH and alkalinity religiously -- weekly if not more often. Has the pool recently been replastered or newly plastered? Sorry for your plight. Maybe if you could talk the plaster company into a new replaster job offering to pay a good portion of the cost he will consent.

k

Pool chemical substitutes are not recommended, as they can disrupt the delicate balance of chemicals needed to keep the pool clean and safe. It's best to use the proper pool chemicals recommended by the manufacturer to maintain water quality and ensure the pool is safe for swimming. Avoid using household chemicals as substitutes, as they may cause harm to swimmers and damage the pool.

If your pool turns dark purple when using liquid chlorine test drops, it could indicate high levels of chlorine in the water. This color change may be due to an overabundance of chlorine or the presence of oxidized copper in the water. It is recommended to double-check the test results and adjust the chlorine levels accordingly to prevent any potential issues with the pool water.

Sodium carbonate (soda ash) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) are commonly used chemicals to increase the pH level in above-ground pools. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and test the water regularly to ensure the pH is within the ideal range.

I think that it takes 4 or 5 days for added stabilizer (cyanuric acid) to register. Please be careful that you don't add too much.

A: A rough formula for CYA would be about 5#'s per 10,000 gal minimum. You should have a goal of about 50 to 80 ppm conditioner or CYA. k

You should check on your Total Alkalinity first and that should be the first thing added before pH Increaser. But without knowing all your readings it is hard to say exactly what is wrong with your pool water.

There is NO way to lower TA without lowering pH. Slugging acid in a pool with the pump off will have EXACTLY the same effect as walking the acid around the pool AND can cause damage to pool surfaces. When you add acid you convert bicarbonate (TA) into carbonic acid. This action lowers both pH and TA. Carbonic acid is basically CO2 dissolved in water. If you let the CO2 gas off the pH will rise (since the amount of carbonic ACID) in the water is lessened) and the TA will stay where it is (since we cannot form more bicarbonate).

To lower TA safely without causing damage to pool surfaces:

1. drop the pH to 7.0 and no lower with acid ( use an acid demand test in a good test kit to do this)

2. aerate the water to gas off CO2. (fountains, waterfalls, turning the eyeballs upward in the returns to break the water surface, having a 'splash party' in the pool, or anything else that disturbs the water will work. ) The aeration will cause the pH to rise. When the pH is above 7.4 test the TA. (it won't move much at first but will eventually start to move if it is very high). If the TA is still too high repeat from step 1. When the TA is where you want it you are done.

To sum this up:

The main component of TA is the bicarbonate in the water

The act of adding the acid lowers BOTH the pH and the TA by converting bicarbonate into carbonic acid (basically carbon dioxide dissolved in the water). It lowers pH much faster than it lowers TA

Allowing the carbon dixoide created by lowering the pH to gas out of the water causes the pH to rise again because the amount of carbonic ACID in the water decreases. However the amount of bicarbonate does not increase so neither does the TA.