Swimming Pools

If you are filling the pool with water yourself and not having a pool maintenance firm do it, then you'll likely need:

· Calcium (via Calcium Chloride or possibly Calcium Carbonate if you need to increase alkalinity as well). This assumes that your source water has less than 300 ppm CaCO3 equivalent of calcium hardness.

· Bicarbonate of soda to get the Total Alkalinity to 80-120 ppm. After that, then it's mostly just adding chlorine and adjusting pH (with acid if you use liquid chlorine; base if you use Tri-Chlor).

NOTE: If you use Tri-Chlor (or Di-Chlor), you will be increasing your Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels substantially over even one summer of use. If you do frequent backwash of your sand or DE pool filter (paper filters don't need backwash) and if you splash out lots of water, then the CYA level might be OK. Otherwise, 1 tablet of Tri-Chlor produces (in 16,000 gallons) about 2.5 ppm of chlorine AND 2 ppm of CYA. Di-chlor produces 1.5 times as much CYA for the same amount of chlorine as Tri-Chlor.

· Sodium Bicarb.

· Muriatic acid

· A floater (don't put your tabs in the skimmer)

· Taylor DPD Test Kit-- You'll also need to know how to make adjustments and the meaning of each reading. Test chemical levels before letting anyone enter the pool. Do not allow anyone in the pool for at least half an hour after treatment.

· Never Mix Chemicals!!!

· Run your filter pump as recommended-possibly 2-4 hours a day. Filter use will increase when used with an intex cover or solar cover, as air cannot circulate.

If you have not had a pool before, you should take a course in managing the pool--often offered through your local government.

Having a properly balanced pool is not difficult, but it does take work.

I'm the pool operator at our local YMCA and keeping an 80,000 gallon pool balanced is pretty easy, once you all the elements in place and know what you're doing.

Chlorine 1.5-3.5, alkalinity 80-100, pH 7.6-7.8, not 7.2, hardness 150-250, not up to 400.

You have to stay on top of it because the chlorine can go down in a matter of hours if no one properly checks it.

Algae spores float around in the air and can hit your pool at any time You can fix it by 1 shocking the pool and scrubbing the walls and floor of the pool if this doesn't clear it up just get an algaecide from your pool shop. When you vacuum the dead algae out of the pool it would be a good idea to vacuum it to waste to reduce the risk of reinfecting the pool.

A common chemical used to remove minerals from well water added to a new vinyl pool is a sequestering agent, such as a metal sequestrant. This helps prevent staining and scaling on the pool surfaces caused by minerals in the water. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper dosage and application.

shocking will not get rid of algae,algae feeds on phosphates so you'll have to get your phosphate level down to zero using a product a pool store sells to control this.good luck.

Phosphates are only a big factor in Salt Pools, The areas with growth are not getting circulation to refresh the active chlorine. Or you are not shocking properly, If you are shocking with a chlorine base product you have to bring your chlorine levels up 10 times above current levels if you miss and only go 9.5 times is all it does is add more chloramines to your pool creating even a worse problem. I suggest using a Non Chlorine shock with it you add 1 lb for 10,000 and it always works without a bunch of calculations, and if you use to little it just works a little less plus you can swim in 20 Minutes. Available from Kenny 801-232-5893 800-488-2436

Cleaning the filter helps.

k

Vinyl liners have a tendency to stain. If a brush won't work, you can try using a large chlorine tablet to "brush" the stained area. Please use caution - bleach tablets can burn skin and eyes - wear goggles and gloves! More input from FAQ Farmers: * Ascorbic acid will remove stain from a vinyl lines. First try a vitamin C tablet on the stain and see if it works. It should work almost immediately. Using ascorbic acid followed by MetalOut in a 0% chlorine pool will work. * I tried the ascorbic acid suggestion and it worked great. But rubbing the lining with a sock full of vitamin C tablets was time consuming. Can I add granular ascorbic acid to the pool water and have it do the same thing? If so, will that damage the pool liner? If not, what ratio should I use? * You can purchase granular ascorbic acid for just this purpose at any good pool supply store - I get mine at Leslie's. Follow the directions on the bottle (including the use of a chellating agent). This will not damage your liner. * These are more than likely not dirt stains, but metal stains. Swimming pools can get all kinds of metal satins, but the most popular ones are copper, iron and organic. And yes, the ascorbic acid will work great to remove the stains. To prevent the staining, you need to use a sequestering agent to keep the metals 'tied up' in the water so they cannot attach themselves to the liner.

No, you do not need to change or alter your existing filter - or any other item of equipment. The saline system is compatible with any type of filter and any type of pool or equipment. Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions about the salt (saline) system.

You can, if the water presently in the pool is 'hard' - but be very careful to keep an eye on the Calcium Hardness of the pool water. If you filled a pool with water from the softener, the water would be hungry for calcium and drag it out of the pool walls, making them feel and look like sandpaper. Calcium hardness should be kept within 200-275ppm. best to use regular water for topup and keep the pool water properly balanced (see your local pool store).

Most likely one or two of the burner orifices near the pilot light are clogged making the gas travel a distance before lighting. Pull the burner tray and clean it completely. And check for spider webs and other debris in the burners. Check for other gas leaks, and don't use flex lines, flanges, valves, or other fittings inside the heater. On the Series One, check the sidewalls to make sure they are intact.

I cannot find a current listing for Teledyne Laars. As far as I can tell, Teledyne and Laars separated, Laars joined up with Waterpik and then got reorganized under Jandy. www.jandy.com now has the Laars Lite2 line of pool heaters with the LG model almost identical to the Teledyne Laars LLG. You can access the manual at http://www.jandy.com/pdfs/H02359-.pdf . Jandy also has a parts list for older discontinued models.

Yes, stainless steel in-ground pools are known for their durability and longevity. They are resistant to rust and corrosion, require minimal maintenance, and can withstand harsh weather conditions. Overall, stainless steel pools are a popular choice for those looking for a long-lasting and sturdy swimming pool option.

The corrosive properties of water are not affected by its hardness. This is a common misconception that can be explained by the types of source water that yield naturally soft or naturally hard water. If your water is naturally soft, there is a good chance it is also corrosive due to other factors.

Surface water sources that supply naturally soft water often have low (acidic) pH, low TDS (total dissolved solids), and high dissolved gas concentrations such as oxygen and CO2 that can contribute to corrosion. Naturally hard water often comes from a well and has higher pH, higher TDS, and lower dissolved gas concentrations. These correlations are due to the water source and are not caused by the hardness of the water.

If your water has been softened using sodium cycle ion exchange in a water softener, the corrosive properties of your water are not affected. A water softener removes calcium and magnesium ions and replaces them with an equivalent amount of sodium ions. This process has no significant effect on the corrosive properties of the treated water.

Removing hardness by reverse osmosis (RO) or deionization (DI) can significantly increase the corrosive properties of water because they both drastically decrease the dissolved solids in the water, and the latter can alter the pH. This sort of filtration is beyond the scope of the question.

You still must maintain the correct pH and alkalinity levels in your pool, though your water softener will not affect these levels. Your local pool supply store can furnish you with the proper test kits and chemicals to accomplish this.

According to Wiki s.com to convert horsepower to kilowatts you multiple the horsepower by a factor of 0.746.

How do you convert horsepower to kilowatts

However, you are saying that your 1 HP motor uses 1.84KW instead of 0.746KW which doesn't make sense to me.

You will be shocked by how much your electric bill will rise by the use of the pool pump. To figure out how much, find out the Kilowatt (KW) rating of your main pool pump and your pool sweep pump and multiply this by the number of hours each runs. Then multiply this by your electric bill Kilowatt-hour (KWh) rate.

For my 16,000 gallon pool which uses a 1 HP motor at 1.84 KW running 8-10 hours per day plus a 0.75 HP motor at 1.495 KW running 3 hours per day for the pool sweep, the cost is $75-$90 per month (at 13 cents per KWh).

I have a 15000 gallon pool with a 1 HP motor running 10-12 hours per day. The electric bill is $100-120 per month.

Sounds like white water mold to me.

Hum, take a sample of the "flakes" and water if possible to local pool store for analyzing.

k

If you have a Salt Water Chlorinating system and hard water to start with, then what you are seeing is calcium precipitation. Water can only hold a certain amount of dissolved minerals. When sodium is introduced to the water, it displaces the calcium which precipitates in an insoluble form and builds up inside the ion exchanger. The flakes break loose and are introduced to the pool via the water return lines.

If you are getting bright color patches on plaster hmmm, what is happening to the equipment also? You could have a chemical imbalance in your pool. Are you actually using a test kit to determine the readings of chlorine and pH? You may have reduced the life of the pool plaster and the equipment by many years. The stain may be caused by some water treatment that you have recently added or excess muriatic acid. However, muriatic acid usually produces a copper color to black stain on plaster. Be sure that you are not mistakingly using the muriatic acid instead of chlorine. Staining of sorts can be caused by a pump that is producing more GPM than the equipment can safely handle. Best bet is to hire a service tech for a one time evaluation of the color and plaster. He will test chemical parameters and advise. The nominal service charge will be well worth his professional advice. Someone will need to visually see the problem to determine a direction.

Ken

Doughboy Pool businesses are located in El Cajon, in San Diego County, and in Vista, in North San Diego County, California. These stores specialize in selling and servicing Doughboy above-ground pools and related products.

I think it could be normal, if the pool is not losing water. On my filter and pump, I have a valve, that when open, causes bubbles to come out of the low end jets, simulating the jets of a jacuzzi. When closed, there are no bubbles. If the pool is losing water, then the appearance of bubbles in the pump, or coming out of the jets could be due to air from from the outside which would mean a leak in one or more of the lines or at the fittings. Also, I'm curious as to how one would "pressure check" a return line from the skimmer, the main drain or vacuum line since these wouldn't be under pressure from the pump. If your pool is blowing air back into the pool through the return lines, it is caused by an air leak, on the suction side of the pump. Because the pump is above the water level of the pool, you will not lose any water. To check to see if you are sucking air at the pump, turn the pump on and take some dish detergent and squirt it along each plumbing fitting in front of the pump. Watch to see if any soap bubbles form in the pump housing. If so, you'll probably need to to replace those fittings, one of them is leaking.

ANSWER::

The leak discussed above could involve both in and out fittings on the pump or it could be a leaking pump seal or a loose pump lid or lid gasket. The probable cause of this leak at the fittings is that the pump ran dry at some point in time causing the PVC fittings to become hot and shrink.

Pressure testing of the return lines involves plugging those lines at the pool and and pump. The people who do this sort of thing have a tool or tools to insert in the system and introducing air into those lines monitoring pressure loss in each particular line through a process of elimination.

K

The black (burn) marks show up on Gray plaster pools. White plaster pools will show up as a yellow or rust color. Remove the tabs and put them in a proper floating devise, the marks will go away in time.

Try using wet and dry sand paper on the burn marks to reduce their visibility and roughened plaster.. additionally, tablets of any size should NEVER be placed or tossed into the pool or skimmer. K

Yes, I believe it means your pump and filter are running correctly. You may want to adjust your jet so that the water discharge is just below the surface and circulating around the pool properly. My pool company told me to place the return jet at an angle facing away from the skimmer. It should be angled so that very little water movement can be noticed from the surface. The pool companies often set the showroom return jets in a way that is angled too high. They do this just for "show." If the return is set right, surface materials end up in the skimmer and bottom materials end up in one general spot in the center which is very easily vacuumed.

Carpooling is the shared use of a car by the driver and one or more passengers, usually for commuting. Carpooling arrangements and schemes involve varying degrees of formality and regularity. Formal carpool projects have been around in a structured form since the mid-1970s.

The fear of pools is known as aquaphobia. It is a specific phobia characterized by an irrational and extreme fear of water, particularly large bodies of water like pools. This fear can be triggered by various factors, such as a negative past experience or a fear of drowning.

There is no immediate way of knowing this, but percentage-wise, there would be a fair number of homes in an affluent neighborhood with pools, very few in a low-income area. It would also vary by state. The warmer a state is year around, the more likely a family is to have a pool.

Around 10.4 million American households own a swimming pool, representing approximately 8% of all households in the United States. Ownership rates vary based on factors such as region, climate, and income level.