Has a Timing CHAIN. It does not need replacing for life unless it gets abused with other engine internals if yu don't do your Oil changes as required. No Belt is used on the 2.4! Only the 3.3 V6 Highlander has the Timing Belt and must be changed on a scheduled mileage/time basis.

Depends what your problem is. One common problem is that the copper contacts inside the solenoid burn and pit and the starter will not kick in (or maybe just click and not do anything). There's absolutely nothing wrong with the starter motor, nor the solenoid, only the contacts inside the solenoid housing, that pass juice on to the starter motor are bad. I have sat there, miles from home, clicked the starter over and over again and prayed that on the 173rd click it will engage (which it actually does, only at its own evil pleasure). I have repaired twice in 90K miles. If above is your problem, know that you can buy a starter solenoid repair kit (with new copper contacts) from Toyota, for less $, by a country mile, than the price of a new starter. (I actually filed and polished the old contacts once before I got wise to the repair kit.) Then, it is a matter of disassembling stuff around the starter, enough to remove the starter, put it on a bench, disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts. No rocket science, just careful, tedious work, to not break anything and get everything back together as it was. If you are not willing to let the job teach you, ask somebody else to describe the details.

Just came in the house from doing just that. First remove the heat shield from the exhaust pipes. Next I found it's best to remove the upper radiator hose. ( Gives you room to work). This now gives you some room to get at the 2 starter hold down bolts and the nut that holds the main electrical wire to the starter. Also you can now take off the little plug that goes on top of the starter.Once you take off these bolts, the starter can be removed via the exhaust pipes. The new starter will go on alot faster you'll find. Mine did. Good luck! ***************** I just replaced the starter on a 1999 Galant 3.0 V6 (1999-2003): The starter motor is located on the front of the engine behind the exhaust pipe and next to the oil filter. First disconnect the battery. Next remove the flat, angular heat shield from the starter itself (1x 8mm nut and 2x 8mm bolts). Do NOT try to remove the heat shield from the Exhaust pipe - it can't be removed with the starter in place and it's not necessary anyway. Next remove the oil filter. You'll loose a few ounces of oil so be prepared for that with a drain pan and either cover the removed filter to keep debris out or replace it and remember to check the oil level later. Remove the small signal wire from the solenoid (released by pushing in a tiny lever with a finger tip) and also remove the 12mm nut attaching the positive battery cable to the starter. The starter is held in place by two 14mm bolts. On the engine (passenger) side, there is a 14x30mm bolt threading into the transaxle from the bottom of the starter. On the transaxle (driver) side, there is a longer 14x50mm bolt threading into the top of the starter. Funnily enough, I just replaced the battery two weeks ago. I suspect now that the power of a new battery burned up the worn brushes in the original starter.

If you know for sure that it is not getting fuel or fire, you need to check the ECM fuse. If it is good then check the relay. If you have a professional hook up a scanner then it will tell what is wrong with it. That would be cheaoer than guessing unless you have plenty of money to waste on replacing good parts.

I thought a full tank would help but after I filled the tank, the problem has WORSENED. Its very difficult to start it now as it knocks like crazy. The car idles smoothly sometimes esp. before engaging the drive gear, after that it simply stalls. If the filter is clogged then the car would not start at all. Right? Please suggest. Thanks. check to see if your fuel filter is clogged..also might need a fuel pump

The '96 Camry power locks and windows fuse is a type C 30-amp rectangular block, pink in frame color with a transparent face. The location is just nuts, if you ask me---took my 14-yr old son to find it. It is located to the right of the instrument panel fuse block, partially obscured by a heating/cooling duct. To get to it, open the tray at the driver's left knee, squeeze the sides to release them, and pull the tray out completetly. Next, remove the two trim panel screws that secure the black plastic piece in front of the fuse block. To the right of the block is a black connector on a white plastic cover. There are three type C fuses near this cover and the blue plastic piece behind it. One is above, two are together to its right. Number 34 (the one you want) is the upper one of the two to the right. Here's where I disappoint you---I didn't pull mine out. I was able to inspect it by compressing the sides of the plastic ductwork and peeking in with a flashlight (it was still good), but I don't have any idea of the easiest way to extract that fuse. It may be possible to drop out the whole fuse block panel from behind the dash, but I really don't know. Sorry I can't help further.

Well, if you're not good with a clothes hanger or if you're not a professional car thief, then call AAA. You could break a window but that is not usually a good idea. You are going to have to call a locksmith to have him unlock the key and make a new key.

Owners manual not good. Fuse is 15a marked cig behind storage door just to left of steering wheel. clock and radio will work on replacement. Not-Not the 15a dome light fuse as noted in the owners manual. Great job toyota.

I take mine on a dark road at night and there are adjusting screwss on the top and sides of the lights for adjustment. Try not to blind the oncomming traffic when on dim as they might run into you. Or take it to a state inspection station.

The starter is attached by 2 bolts.

First, unhook the battery.

Next, the thing to the left of the battery holder is the cruise control. You need to move that out of the way to give you room to work.

There are 2 bolts on the starter. Try to soak with WD-40 to loosen them up. If you can loosen both bolts with a wrench or rachet set, unhook all the wires attached to the starter and remember where they came from.

The new starter will bolt on the exact same way.

Reattach the wires and put back the cruise control and battery holder, as well as the battery.

These bolts could be stipped if you dont use high quality six sided cup. If they in the process they are stipped get Craftman extractor cups which work flawlessly and install new high grade bolts with washers. These extractor extract the bolt instantly and extremely easy.

First thing to assess is the power steering fluid. More than likely you are low or empty and thus, the ability to be agile with the wheels has become difficult. secondly, if the first is not the problem, then i would assess the power steering pump. These do go out at about 45-60K miles on most American made cars. So, this could be the second thing to rule out. third is the rack and pinion, the steering column down to the axle and then out to the tires should be assessed for leaks, no compression, etc. Hopefully this helps you out.

It is easy to remove the FM radio. You may have to 1st remove the ashtray. Then using either a L shaped or curved PIC tool pry the plastic frame off which encompasses the radio,and temp controls. Be careful when prying the cover not to dent nor damage the soft dash board around the plastic cover. You may have to pry farely hard to release the hidden clips holding the cover in place. By using the PIC tool slide it under one spot of the cover to find 1 of the 4 or 5 hidden cover clips then pry to release the found clip from its corresponding clip hole in the dashes frame. Repeat for the other clips then hang the cover to the side which is still attached to the cig lighter.Then remove the 4 bolts holding the radio in place. Pull out then unhook the two wire harenessesfrom the back of the radio. When hooking up a different radio try to obtain a matching wire hareness connector so as not to cut the orginial in car wire hareness.

well....chanes are high that it's the alternator. take it to autozone, and they will test the alternator for free, and since obviously you cant drive it there, you can still take the alternator out and take it into autozone. you might take your battery too, just incase. it could also be a ground from the alternator

Depends on the car...all cars have a certain recc. pressure, it should be listed on the drivers door jamb (or possibly on one of the others), in the glove box, or the center console...or you can just go with the standard 30 psi on cars, 35 on light duty trucks...if you need more help write me back

To reset a breaker move the handle completely to the off position. If it had tripped you will feel a little resistance as it goes to the off position. If this doesn't restore the power the breaker is either bad and in need of replacement, or there is a persistent fault in the circuit causing the breaker to immediately re-trip. Breakers are safety devices.

There is a system called the Millennium Plus available from www.findvehicle.net that is a GPS/GSM vehicle tracking, Locating and Anti-Theft system, it will also give you remote fuctions such as, lock/unlock doors, disable vehicle or operated any onboard electrical device. it will also call you if your vehicle is moved, a door opened and much more. You can even receive a insurance discount when installed. This is the latest system available and costs no more than a good stereo.

need more info. which light bulb? there are a hundred lights inside and out for a camry.

In 2010, for northern hemisphere winter begins on December 21.

For southern hemisphere winter begins on June 21.

In 2011, for northern hemisphere winter begins on December 22.

For southern hemisphere winter begins on June 22.

If you are planning on getting a hotel room as well check out priceline's combination deals where you can buy both for a discount. Check out Southwest Airlines as well because they almost always have the cheapest domestic flights and great customer service.

The Factory recommended oil is 0W-20 Synthetic oil.

hi

While alarm is still going off insert key into driver's door locking and then unlocking it.If this doesn't work do same to passenger door......GOOD LUCK....VE1FOX

I would start with replacing the spark plug wires and spark plugs (if you did not do that for a while).

If does not help check the coils or distributor depending on what you have.

If you will go purchase a Purolator Cabin Filter, it comes with complete instructions. Sold at Advance Auto Parts.