Toyota Echo

Look for the rectangular box with 3 lines connected to it, just in front of the fuel tank. If you follow the fuel lines they will lead you to it.

It is the ACC Fuse in your fuse box. It also runs the radio and digital clock. If both of those work, and just not the lighter, then you need to replace the lighter assembly. I got mine at Toyota dealer parts department for $45.98, part number 85500-28050.

that they shall fight and not give up .

Toyota makes them in factories.

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You really need to take it to the dealer to be properly diagnosed - they might be able to fix this for free, as there is a technical service bulletin related to this error code:

Engine - MIL ON/DTC 1349 Set

ENGINE

EG009-03

May 19, 2003

M.I.L. "ON" DTC P1349 - VVTi ACTUATOR

Models:

'00 - '02 Corolla, Celica, MR2 Spyder, and ECHO

Under certain conditions customers may experience a MIL "ON" condition with DTC P1349 indicating a variable valve timing (VVTi) malfunction. In some cases, the cause of this DTC may be the VVTi actuator.

If your VIN is before JTDDY3#T20056831

It looks like they replaced the camshaft/camshaft timing sprocket.

If that isn't it, then in general P1349 is a misfire or ignition issue under most general OBD-II - but Toyota spec'd OBD-II has it as a VVT malfunction. Unfortunantly - hard to tell which it is. Might be the ignition timing set too advanced (VVT-i issue) or low fuel pressure (bad or clogged injector, bad or low flowing fuel pump/regulator). An emissions test could tell you which one it is. If you want to try a quick fix on your own, I'd start with the basics, change the spark plugs, air filter, and maybe the pcv valve, all these are cheap and easy. Other things could cause the problem though, so if the quick fixes don't work, I'd lean toward the injectors.

Seafoam and other additives are very good solvents that can help clean the injectors - but may not be strong enough to clean off these injectors. Injector cleaning services generally don't work that well - best way is to have these cleaned ultrasonically or replaced (very costly).

Turn on ac and watch clutch on front of ac compressor. If clutch doesn't engage then AC relay is bad. Or you can follow the schematic on the side of the relay and use a volt meter to test it.

The Tallaght Echo was created in 1980.

Commuting is the preferred use.

890 miles

Doubt it is different from the older model years, a diagram was posted on this website for an older model echo.

See related link. It could be any number of things, you need to run some tests. Could be as simple as a blown fuse. Low pressure is probably most common. You may or may not have a leak that needs fixed (could be caused by a worn o-ring / gasket). Worst case you need a new compressor. You can buy a cheap gauge from harbor freight or take it to a professional.

The lighter fuse of a Toyota Matrix is located under the driver side dash of the vehicle. It is the 15 amp fuse in slot 1.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it is broken, it depends on that you mean by "serviced". A replacement could be several hundred dollars, your best bet might be to find a good mechanic and call around, they should be able to give you an estimate. Find a mechanic here:
http://cartalk.com/
(Mechanic's Files - enter your zip code and read the reviews!) Additional: if you pay for a fuel injection cleaning you are getting ripped off. try a bottle of stp fuel injection cleaner and do it yourself. you'll save a lot of money and be doing exactly what the mechanic will do. if they are actually going to clean your fuel injectors it might be a different story, but be skeptical of "fuel injection services"

p0420 is the only common fault I know of for the Echo. The software is too sensitive, this could possibly be fixed with a firmware upgrade which is exactly what Toyota did for the Rav4 which had the same problem, but in the case of the Rav4 they issued a recall. The Echo has NOT had a recall for this issue. The car will often run fine, pass emissions tests, and get normal fuel economy even after the p0420 code comes up. The dealer will charge $1400 to put in a new catalytic converter (they replace the full assembly from engine to tailpipe). If you decide to save by using an aftermarket cat the p0420 code will in many cases will come right back. Of course the code can be caused by other things too like O2 sensors or MAF, but often replacing these will not be enough to keep this code from coming back.

Pop the hood, find the horn (small round thing) near the front grill toward the center. Use a multimeter to see if it is getting power. Check the fuse box, look for an open fuse. You can easily replace the horn.

yes

Needle nose pliars or a fuse puller?

Replacing (or tightening) the main drive belt is very easy, you will need a 12mm socket wrench and a 14mm open end wrench. Loosen (do not remove) the two bolts above the alternator that are attached to the metal bracket that allow the alternator to slide (the alternator is attached to the topmost pulley that the drive belt touches, it is at the top front passenger side of the engine compartment). There is a 3rd bolt below the alternator, slightly difficult to see, loosen it using the 14mm wrench, it is often difficult to turn, I recommend penetrating oil and a breaker bar, you only need to turn it a little bit to allow the alternator to pivot. Once all three bolts are loose, you can easily rock the alternator back and forth (same procedure is used to tighten the drive belt). You want to push the alternator back to remove the belt. After installing a new belt (or to tighten an existing belt) you need to pull the alternator toward the front of the car as far as possible. The best way to do this is by putting a pry bar on top of and slightly behind the alternator and pushing up toward the windshield while using the engine as a pivot - this gives you plenty of leverage and allows you to pull the alternator forward. While you are prying, you can tighten the bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket using your left hand as you brace the pry bar with your right hand, to hold it all in place.
The power steering belt is much more difficult but there is an adjustment bolt there as well (I recommend you don't replace that belt unless you have to).

Yes, see link, but note: I would just by a multimeter instead of a test light (you can get a multimeter for as little as $3 from harbor freight)

A defective vacuum line can cause a whistling sound when the vehicle is accelerating. A loose belt can also create a high pitched whistle sound.

Echo, thunder, and bang are types of sound phenomena. Echo refers to the reflection of sound waves off surfaces, resulting in a delayed repetition of the original sound. Thunder is the sound produced by the rapid expansion and contraction of air surrounding a lightning bolt. A bang typically describes a loud, sudden noise, often associated with explosions or impacts.

You wait until it falls off on its own.

I have a 2000 echo and was faced with same thing. Cable would not open hood. I was able to detach the plastic grille from the front with very little damage to the plactic catches that hold it in place. Then snaked something up to the latched and popped it. Then I cut off the plastic coated cable with enough length to loop it out the front so that just a tug on the loop and the hood opens. Just like the old days when you opened the hood on all cars from outside. I like it better.