Toyota Echo

Simple answer, yes. Simply move the flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate from the old engine to the new one.

2004 toyota echo 200,000 kms 08/07/2011

lift car rear up

remove wheel and brake drum

diconnect abs plug if have one.

remove all brake shoes and springs

remove four nuts on back of bearing/hub

clean back of bearing/hub so penetrant oil can soak in

soak interface well. very difficult if you don't.

attach slide hammer to wheel lugs.

use slide hammer to pull hub out of press fit location

(this make take awhile. I used a small propane torch to heat it up around the press fit location)

Once out, clean old paint and rust from area. paint if you like.

new hub bolts in easy, torque as necessary.

reinstall brake shoes/ springs. install drum and finally the wheel.

everything was easy except pulling the old hub out.

Merc51

This answer will first describe the exhaust system of the 2000 Toyota Echo and then attempt to describe where the oxygen sensors are located.

The exhaust system of the 2000 Toyota Echo is a two piece unit. One piece is the muffler with a little piping at either end (located at the rear of the vehicle - the rearmost bit is open pipe from which exhaust exits the vehicle). The other part extends from the muffler all the way to the engine area of the vehicle.

Starting from the muffler and working forward with the exhaust system one sees two bits of the front pipe that are larger in size than the pipe itself. These bits are the resonator (located near the middle of the vehicle) and the catalytic converter, located toward the front of the vehicle (but still well behind the engine area.

The oxygen sensors are located in front of and behind the catalytic converter mounted into the exhaust pipe itself. The sensors have wires coming out of them - when looking at them for the first time, looking for something with wires attached sticking out of the exhaust pipe is a good way to find them.

If the author remembers correctly, the frontmost sensor (closest to the engine) comes out of the exhaust pipe toward the driver side while the rearmost sensor comes out toward the passenger side.

Sensor 1 is the sensor closest to the front of the car and the other sensor is sensor 2.

There is no defined replacement interval, if it is making noise it could require replacement. People have gotten over 400,000 miles on the original chain without needing replacement. I've got 200,000 so far on mine with no issues.

If your engine is visibly leaking oil, you should remove that cover and try to find the source of the leak. But this is not something a typical do-it-yourself mechanic can fix, its possibly you will need new gaskets or worse (such as cylinder rebuild, or worst case replacement of a cracked engine).

Echocardiography

temperature is cold red is hot

Yes.

on the upper fuse panel,,look up under neath your dash,,u will see two sets plug in ontop the back of the fuse panel,,the top left is the daylight running lights,,but caution,,since 1990 in Canada its againest the law and 115 dollar fine,,i found out,,the plus in is black,,

I believe all modern Toyota's have non-interference type engines, but the Echo does not have a timing belt, it has a chain, and there is NO predefined replacement interval for the chain (hope it lasts for 300,000+ miles). This is one of the nice features of the Echo/Yaris.

Depends on the quality of the sound. The minimum distance to hear an echo will be partly based upon the observers ability to resolve different sounds (i.e. so that they can distinguish between the actual noise, and the arrival of the reflected sound - a little 100 year old lady may not be as good as a 15year old!). This will vary between observers, as their auditory reaction times vary

In the perfect Physics world though:

Assuming a sharp sound (like a gunshot) the minimum distance (d=vt) to hear distinct echo is 17.2m considering the speed of sound to be 344ms.

In general the "minimum echo distance" is always equal to half a wavelength from the reflector.

See link to related question.

Bad radiator cap, blockage, new stat is bad, bad coolant temp sensor, fans not working, air pocket in system, worn blades on waterpump, inadequete mixture of coolant and water. Two other things to check....There is a temperature sensor next to the thermostat. They cost about 12 bucks, a standard item, and they are known to degrade in performance over time. Mind you, everything on a fuel injected engine is controlled by a computer module and sensors, the computer adjusting parameters according to readings it gets from the sensors. A bad cooling sensor would not tell the computer to send current to the cooling fan on the radiator. The second thing to check is your radiator itself. Corrosion will build up on the aluminum vents inside, and prevent flow of coolant, and even though your water pump is pumping, the flow is restricted (depending on the antifreeze mix you use), and the solution to that is to have it flushed out. They sell bottles of stuff that you add to your radiator to clean it, or you have it professionally done. To have your radiator flushed insures it is clean, and insures you have the PROPER mix of antifreeze. Too often, shops use the 50/50 mix of antifreeze, and common knowledge dictates that bigger 8 cylinder engines need a richer mixture, like 70/30, especially during the summer. Hot water has way much more pressure than hot antifreeze, and the friction of the mostly water mix could be relative to the "running hot" condition. so, 1st.....Run a richer mix of antifreeze, drive it and see the temperature change. 2nd.....Have the temperature sensor changed. 3rd.....Flush and clean the radiator. Betcha nothing your mixture of antifreeze is too thin to handle this hot weather. Hope it helps. Peace.

I'm assuming that you are asking about fuel mileage. Reduced fuel mileage is mostly caused by under inflated tires. 32 psi for the Toyota Echo tires is required. Don't buy fuel boosters or fuel cleaners because they don't work.

Look for damage to the car (like the hood pushed back or out of alignment). Try this: With a second person helping, have one person in the drivers seat pull the hood release while another person pulls up on the hood either with their fingers or using some type of pry bar or screw driver (you can also try pushing down and pulling up).

If the hood is not coming up at all, then you need to either take the car to a dealer or mechanic, or take more extreme measures. The first thing to do would be to spray as much penetrating lubricant as possible at the hood latch assuming you can even hit it, let it sit for some time, then try the above again. You could try removing the hood release lever inside the car, and pull the cable with pliers (to get some extra travel on it).

It is possible that the cable is no longer attached to the latch at all, in which case you will have to manually open the latch. The only choices are to either try to get to the latch from below the car or through the front grill. Most likely you will need to remove the front grill to access the latch mechanism from there (this would most likely require breaking the plastic tabs that hold the grill in place or cutting part of the grill). Once you have access to the latch, you can manually open it either with your hands or using a screw driver or pliers.

Since you didn't specify, I can only guess you mean uterine "prominent endometrial echo". If you mean cardiac, I can't help so much.

It generally means that the endometrium (lining of the uterus) has a thickened appearance on an pelvic ultrasound. In and of itself, it is a pretty nonspecific finding, and further testing may have to be done to determine a cause.

Hope this helps.

the spare tyre.

Less than $10 for the belt, and about 20-30 minutes, its an easy job.

Sound that reverberates off of objects.

http://www.carspace.com/guides/Toyota-Echo-How-to-change-oil

chain

5-30

See related link. If it starts squeaking after replacement (or otherwise) you need to make it tighter (common problem with Echo). To do this, you can put a pry bar between the alternator and the engine and push the top of the pry bar back toward the windshield.

I am trying to find answer to this question too, for at least 4 weeks. Please if anyone could help it will be great. Thanks!