Toyota Echo

Needle nose pliars or a fuse puller?

Replacing (or tightening) the main drive belt is very easy, you will need a 12mm socket wrench and a 14mm open end wrench. Loosen (do not remove) the two bolts above the alternator that are attached to the metal bracket that allow the alternator to slide (the alternator is attached to the topmost pulley that the drive belt touches, it is at the top front passenger side of the engine compartment). There is a 3rd bolt below the alternator, slightly difficult to see, loosen it using the 14mm wrench, it is often difficult to turn, I recommend penetrating oil and a breaker bar, you only need to turn it a little bit to allow the alternator to pivot. Once all three bolts are loose, you can easily rock the alternator back and forth (same procedure is used to tighten the drive belt). You want to push the alternator back to remove the belt. After installing a new belt (or to tighten an existing belt) you need to pull the alternator toward the front of the car as far as possible. The best way to do this is by putting a pry bar on top of and slightly behind the alternator and pushing up toward the windshield while using the engine as a pivot - this gives you plenty of leverage and allows you to pull the alternator forward. While you are prying, you can tighten the bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket using your left hand as you brace the pry bar with your right hand, to hold it all in place.
The power steering belt is much more difficult but there is an adjustment bolt there as well (I recommend you don't replace that belt unless you have to).

Yes, see link, but note: I would just by a multimeter instead of a test light (you can get a multimeter for as little as $3 from harbor freight)

A defective vacuum line can cause a whistling sound when the vehicle is accelerating. A loose belt can also create a high pitched whistle sound.

Echo, thunder, and bang are types of sound phenomena. Echo refers to the reflection of sound waves off surfaces, resulting in a delayed repetition of the original sound. Thunder is the sound produced by the rapid expansion and contraction of air surrounding a lightning bolt. A bang typically describes a loud, sudden noise, often associated with explosions or impacts.

You wait until it falls off on its own.

I have a 2000 echo and was faced with same thing. Cable would not open hood. I was able to detach the plastic grille from the front with very little damage to the plactic catches that hold it in place. Then snaked something up to the latched and popped it. Then I cut off the plastic coated cable with enough length to loop it out the front so that just a tug on the loop and the hood opens. Just like the old days when you opened the hood on all cars from outside. I like it better.

There are 2 lights , one blue, one red , they both will come on at starting , blue first then red , but that is to see if the are working , if you are driving normally and one of em comes on it means , Blue: Youre driving in very cold weather amd the coolant it getting below freezing point ,.( which is higly unlikely)

Or Red: your car is overheating

Can be a leak , defective water pump , thermostat , temp sensor

Akio Toyoda

Remove the glove box door by sqeezing the sides together and lift out. Remove the snap-in cover from the ECU area. Remove the 2 screws holding the ECU and disconnect the plugs, dont worry they only fit back in one way. Remove the 3 screws holding the fan motor in from below and it should come right out. Disconnect the wiring plugs and the entire blower/motor assembly will come out.

I'll leave the other comments below, but as a Toyota echo owner, I bet the sound you refer to is the sound of the fuel tank equalizing pressure, I own two echos and both do this, its a very odd "feature" of the echo, mine sound like croaking frogs, it can go on for quite a few minutes after you park the car. I assure you this is perfectly normal and there is nothing to fix. If this is the sound, you should be able to hear it much louder when you put your ear next to the fuel inlet.

The sucking sound is going to be already there but you can more than likely only here it for a couple of seconds after you turn the engine off.

This is more than likely going to be a vacuum hose or pump of some sort and usually depending on the type of vehicle you have I would take a guess and say the thing that you would usually expect this type of noise to be coming from the Brake Servo Vacuum Hose (Pressure Releasing from the unit) this maybe the result of having an air leak in one of the hoses and therefore creating this noise once you switch off the engine. In Normal circumstances you would not hear this because every hose and the unit itself is contained and sealed therefore releasing the pressure over a period of hours not seconds.

It certainly points towards an air leak of sorts even if you find it is not the Brake Servo. There maybe several other vacuum hoses located on the engine so it is just a process of elimination. I would definitely check the Brake Servo first though. just by placing your head next to the unit (either Bulk Head left or Bulk Head right) which is usually a black unit with the Master Cylinder (Where you put the Brake Fluid in) mounted on the front of it.

Hope this Helps

Probably one of the top 5 "best bang for the buck" cars you could buy in my opinion. Can get almost 40MPGs, very reliable, timing chain (not a belt) which is nice (no replacement schedule, can last almost forever).

<?php echo "Hello world"?>

plane? trains? automobile? rocket? jet pack? bicycle? foot? If you'd use mapquest, yahoo maps, google maps, etc. you could at least learn how far it is...

Inside the fuel tank.

Same thing happened to my car. The blower motor and the resistor had to be replaced. It cost me . The dealer actually had the parts in stock because it happened frequently enough with the Echo that he wanted the parts on hand. If it is your problem, you may be lucky enough to find a rebuilt blower motor.

Automatic transaxle fluid................ATF Type T-IV

Dry fill.............................................6.85 liters (7.24 US qts, 6.03 lmp.qts)

Drain and refill................................2.9 liters (3.1 US qts, 2.6 lmp.qts)

pssenger side is 14 inches drver side is 22 inches

Front door = 6-1/2"

Rear table = 6" x 9"

Simple answer, yes. Simply move the flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate from the old engine to the new one.

2004 toyota echo 200,000 kms 08/07/2011

lift car rear up

remove wheel and brake drum

diconnect abs plug if have one.

remove all brake shoes and springs

remove four nuts on back of bearing/hub

clean back of bearing/hub so penetrant oil can soak in

soak interface well. very difficult if you don't.

attach slide hammer to wheel lugs.

use slide hammer to pull hub out of press fit location

(this make take awhile. I used a small propane torch to heat it up around the press fit location)

Once out, clean old paint and rust from area. paint if you like.

new hub bolts in easy, torque as necessary.

reinstall brake shoes/ springs. install drum and finally the wheel.

everything was easy except pulling the old hub out.

Merc51

This answer will first describe the exhaust system of the 2000 Toyota Echo and then attempt to describe where the oxygen sensors are located.

The exhaust system of the 2000 Toyota Echo is a two piece unit. One piece is the muffler with a little piping at either end (located at the rear of the vehicle - the rearmost bit is open pipe from which exhaust exits the vehicle). The other part extends from the muffler all the way to the engine area of the vehicle.

Starting from the muffler and working forward with the exhaust system one sees two bits of the front pipe that are larger in size than the pipe itself. These bits are the resonator (located near the middle of the vehicle) and the catalytic converter, located toward the front of the vehicle (but still well behind the engine area.

The oxygen sensors are located in front of and behind the catalytic converter mounted into the exhaust pipe itself. The sensors have wires coming out of them - when looking at them for the first time, looking for something with wires attached sticking out of the exhaust pipe is a good way to find them.

If the author remembers correctly, the frontmost sensor (closest to the engine) comes out of the exhaust pipe toward the driver side while the rearmost sensor comes out toward the passenger side.

Sensor 1 is the sensor closest to the front of the car and the other sensor is sensor 2.

There is no defined replacement interval, if it is making noise it could require replacement. People have gotten over 400,000 miles on the original chain without needing replacement. I've got 200,000 so far on mine with no issues.

If your engine is visibly leaking oil, you should remove that cover and try to find the source of the leak. But this is not something a typical do-it-yourself mechanic can fix, its possibly you will need new gaskets or worse (such as cylinder rebuild, or worst case replacement of a cracked engine).

Echocardiography