Toyota Echo

Toyota City, Japan

Toyota City, Japan

The 2005 Toyota Echo takes 22" driver side and 14" passenger side replacement windshield wiper blades. Be sure to always lookup the exact part numbers for the brand of wipers you decide to purchase by asking the clerk, using the book, or by looking it up online. This not only ensures the correct lengths but also the correct attachments. FYI - there are over 22 wiper arm attachments out there - so its not only length but also attachment. See related links below.

Could be a blocked oil control valve, you could try replacing this part. See related question link. There is also a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for p1349 various Toyota models - see related link.

I cannot tell you how to do this. I don't know for sure but have slim jimmed three cars in the past. The one thing I can tell you is this. It applies to all makes and models of any sort of vehicle. Do not slim the driver door. Do not let anyone else slim your driver door. This includes AAA, the cops or the tow truck driver. EVER!! The chances of breaking the lock mechanism on the door are somewhere between 99 and 100%. Have fun climbing over your console and floor shifter until you can fix the driver door. You will likely be able to open it from the inside to get out, or reach through the open window of the driver door and use the inside handle. But you won't be opening the driver door with the outside handle. So, do the passenger door or a rear door. Don't do the rear door on the passenger side on the street side. If you break it, they will have go det in and out on the traffic side of the car. I have a magnetic key box that sits in the curve of the metal bumper hidden by the plactic bumper cover. I place it directly in line with the license plate. So what if it's the first place a thief will look. At least my steering column lock won't be jambed with a screw driver and cost a fortune to repair if they do steal it to jack up a bank or convenience store. After locking myself out 4 or 5 times, that was my solution. In 45 years I have never had a car stolen and haven't been locked out either. All my family and close friends know where the key is if they ever need to use or move the thing too. I don't live in east LA or NYC either though. My not work for others.

Mine is a Toyota echo 2000 sedan. It does about 12 to 15 KMPL per 1 petrol litre.

An echo is a reflected sound wave, so in real life it doesn't look like anything. However, on a sonograph, it would look very similar to the original sound wave form, just quieter and perhaps a bit distorted depending upon the reflecting surface.

http://pdftown.com/2000-2002-Toyota-Echo-Service-Manual.html

I believe there are several temperature sensors so I'm not sure which one you are referring to, but I will say this, if your 2001 echo is like mine, its not easy - the hardware is so rusted on mine that I could not figure out any way to remove it without cutting and even that did not look easy so I decided not to change mine out for the time being.

you have to remove the disc brake, lower strut bolts, ballpoint and tie rod bolts and Axel nut to remove the complete steering knuckle . the bearing is pressed in and will need to be pressed out this includes the wheel spindle replace in reverse. bearing from Toyota is about 30.00 buy the spring clip also it is Worth it took me about 3 hours plus 30.00 to have pressed out at a local parts place. good luck

As far as I know, there is no national database of battery life statistics, but just from personal experience, having owned two Toyota echos (2000 and 2001) the original battery lasted 9 years in both. If it starts taking longer to start your car, especially after it has been sitting in cold weather, its a sign that the battery is near the end of its life.

You can buy a good quality replacement battery for as little as $65 with more cold crank amps than the original OEM battery (most have a 3-4 year warranty).

It should be located on the bottom of the radiator make sure to collect and dipose of it correctly most recycle centers take it also use Toyota coolant 50/50 mixture open the drain then take the cap off or it makes a big mess you can control the flow with the cap

3.6 liters

Have you tried looking in your Owners Manual, it's in there.

When changing all of the brake shoes on an Echo, take one pair off of one wheel. Open the new box of shoes. Physically match the proper new ones up to find the ones that go on the front wheels.

Its a little hard to see at first , but its right behind the engine at the left side , there will be a rubber dust cap first , remove that and you will se the rotating cap the has the built in dipstick on it

you pull out the fram around the cluster then there are 2 screws you unscrew them and unhook from the wiring harness

1) Open hood

2) Back off bolts holding fastening bar

3) Loosen positive and negative fasteners to battery

4) remove battery

If you don't have an owner manual, you should get one, it lists the recommended service (although it is incomplete). Besides the typical things (oil change, check air filter, check break pads/drums, grease wear points) you should change the break fluid if it hasn't been done, flush/fill replace coolant (use 100,000 mile replacement fluid), possibly change transmission fluid, definitely replace the serpentine belt if it hasn't been done yet, and optionally replace power steering belt. You should also change the PCV valve, clean the throttle body and mass airflow sensor, and replace the spark plugs. Some people would replace the water pump, but I would not personally replace it unless you notice a problem (such as leaks or noises) or your mechanic is willing to do it on the cheap (its a very difficult job to do yourself). Most of these things are not difficult jobs and can be done on your own very inexpensively. Detailed instructions are available on the web, for example: http:/echodiy.multiply.com/journal

It depends on how well you treat it, mine is 8 years old and still going strong. If you begin to feel slipping when starting off or difficulty in shifting especially into 1st from a stop then replace it.

There is a fusebox inside the car on the driver's side under the dash (near where the driver's left knee would be if driving the car). Look for the 15amp fuse in this box.

In the fuse box under the dash it is on the first row on the left it will be the second fuse down. this controls the clock, radio, outside rear view mirror system, cigarette lighter. 15 amp

Well, I came here looking for this answer a couple weeks ago... looked high and low on several sites with no luck. Turns out its not that hard, so since I just did it, I thought I'd share the answer.

It really is worth doing yourself...A quote from a autoglass shop was $206 installed...I got the replacement glass through a friend with a parts store connection for $33!

The first thing is to pull out the window seal and CAREFULLY clean out all the shards of broken glass left behind. Wear gloves...they are SHARP. Seat your new glass in the seal making sure its not stretching any one part. it should fit in nicely and without any tension.

Then you have to remove the set screw from the top of the bar that separates the vent window from the main door window. This can be accessed by pealing back the rubber door seal at the top from the inside. You will see a aluminum Phillips screw. BE CAREFUL, this is a CHEAP screw and wants to strip very easily...this was actually the hardest part of the replacement. It was frozen and started to strip. Make sure you are using a good sharp screwdriver that's the right size. Once it started to strip I put the screwdriver firmly into the screw and tapped the handle with another screwdriver handle to seat it solidly and that impact seamed to unfreeze the screw as well.

Once you remove that screw, with the door window rolled down you have some play to move the top of that bar over just enough to replace the vent window and seal assembly. you will have to CAREFULLY peal back the seal to the main door window. There is some tacky adhesive holding it in place, but its pulls out easily.

Start with the curved section and top, seating them into the groove of the door. The bottom part of the seal has a large tab that will want to hang up on the door at the bottom, carefully push this in with a large dull flat head screwdriver...try not to nick the paint, but even if you do its covered by the seal.

Once the bottom is seated, line up the flat edge into the groove in the bar and push the bar full back into position and replace the main window seal. Rolling up the window at this point helps. Make sure everything is aligned as it should be, there is a little play, so you and push and prod as needed to get everything sitting right...in particular the point at the top and bottom where the vent seal meets the main window seal Replace the screw at the top and you are all set!

All told it took about 30 minutes.

RVProvidence

Could be a number of things, but its definitely an electrical problem. Most likely a bad connection from starter motor to battery. Check all leads. Could be a bad ground connection. Could also be the ignition switch.

No, it can't do that. Maximum you can get is trouble codes...