VW Beetle Type 1

unfortunately no...sorry. the 75 is an (irs) independent rear suspension. which means it is a double jointed axle meaning it has 2 cv boots on each side, opposed to a single jointed on a 57 which is reffered to a swing axle...

Usually the key FOB has a trunk latch, but if the battery runs out or you don't have a key FOB, check next to the drivers door, next to the gas release lever, there should be a trunk release lever.

Remove we beetle seats

From the bottom.

You will need:

set of mechanic's hand tools

pencil

oil drain pan

floor jack and jackstands

a transmission jack is very helpful

couple of great big guys to help

1. Unhook battery, set brake, chock wheels, drain oil.

2. Unhook all the wiring leading to the engine.

3. Unhook the fuel line from the inlet side of the fuel filter (or the inlet side of the fuel pump, if the filter is between the pump and the carb), and stick the pencil in the hose to keep the gas from draining out. Remove the muffler and the piece of shroud between the crank pulley and the hood.

4. Jack up the car and find the two nuts on the bottom that hold the engine to the transmission. Remove them.

5. Put the car back down and put the transmission jack under the engine.

6. Remove the two nuts at the top of the engine - they're behind the fan shroud. If you have skinny little arms you can do this with the shroud still on. If not, you need to remove the hood, carb, fan belt, alternator strap, and fan shroud. In that order.

7. Put a 30mm wrench on the crank pulley bolt and your hand on the intake manifold. Wiggle the bolt back and forth while you pull the engine toward you. Eventually it'll come loose.

8. When the engine is completely clear of the trans shaft, inspect the engine to be sure nothing is attaching it to the car, then lower it down.

9. Get the two big guys to pick up the back of the car high enough to slide the engine out.

Guys with buses have an advantage: the Bus has enough ground clearance that you can slide the engine out without jacking the car up.

Supplies power to the fuel pump.

This is a serious matter due to the danger of a fire and should not be taken lightly. It might be better to simply replace the gas tank as they are readily available from many different sources. There are welding and radiator shops that will handle repairing tanks, they will know the steps to take to do this safely. There are products sold in most auto parts stores that can work well in some cases for small leaks, might try that first.

i will post here because of the danger.

1: off the hub caps, there is no center cap like the front , not at all.

2: this drum is held on with 217 Foot lbs or more.

3: so dont remove it unit you are sure you can put it back on with correct torque.

4: remove the cotter key.

first drain 1/2 or all axle lube from axle or as soon as you get big nut loose

GL4 gear lobe will start leaking past the seals in the bearing housing.

all swing axle bugs. ( there is a pro trick to lock the axles up and then jack up side of car and then oil drains down the raised axle tube (above horizontal)

this trick an the magic tool , saves the axle drain.

the base of the swing arm (trick 1) has a stop, you can put a bolt or nut

in the stop and then jack up car and axle will freeze in that position.

5:

attach huge 36mm socket to bit nut.

I use a magic tool seen here to do this effortlessly.

see magic tool way 2 here

No magic? then drain the transaxle or you will have a huge mess.

ok if you dont have the magic tool get a very huge 3/4? drive breaker

bar 1/2 will break

then with car on ground tire on ground, to fat guys in back seat. (LOL)

using the breaker bar , turn it CCW , with Ebrakes set hard and full chocks on wheels. if rear brakes are oil soaked this can be a problem

if lucky they are off.

if not you will need a magic tool or a very strong impact gun to get it off

there is a tools that you an buy that has a hammer flange. i dont like them.

i dont like hammers , they mess up bearings and such.

the other trick is jack up car, and using 8 foot long angle iron with 2 holes bored

for 2 lug bolts. put angle iron to the left.

then using the extended breaker bar remove the 36mm nut.

ok its off

do not put it back on and forget to set the 217 ft/lbs torque or the

drum spline will crack and you will loss a wheel, the danger here , is near

infinite. DO NOT under torque this NUT.

btw here is the magic tool. aka Torque Dude

sold in many stores. has 9:1 ratio .

Head stud tension on Isuzu G200

Phase 1. 29ft/lbs or 39 newton meter

Phase 2. 54ft/lbs or 73 newton meter

Phase 3. 72ft/lbs or 98 newton meter

go to Craigslist.com you can find all kinds of VW parts in our area, someone might have a used one. or you can go to midamericamotorworks.com they'll for sure have a new one, or you can try JCwhitney

there should be 2 red lights on the dash one is for generator and one is for oil

It is located on the bottom of the generator stand.

It is very difficult. You have to remove the air conditioner unit - capturing the gas, then refilling it when you are done. It is best to leave this job to a professional. It will cost you about $600 for a new alternator and to have it installed.

i found a web site the other day that showed me how to break down Yamaha vin numbers i do not remember the web site but it was saying that either the 2nd or 8th (i cant remember which one) numbers was the year y=2000 x=1999 w=1998 and so one now scince your 2nd and 8th numbers are the same it is probably a 2000. anything newer than a 2000 uses numbers instead of letters.

I sell cars for a living. The tenth didgit from the left to right is the year. In the case of this serial #, this bike is a 2001.

gently pop off the outer bezel with a flat head screwdriver. be careful not to break bezel. should come off fairly easy. there you will find two star head screws. take those out. this should free up the cluster. at this point your work area becomes very small. there are two connections on the back of the cluster. pry the release up and disconnect the cluster . install the replacement cluster the same way the old came out.

The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle runs on regular unleaded.

On the turn signal switch, click it towards you or straight back.
The headlights are dimmed by clicking the turn signal lever toward you or straight back.

First unhook the battery.

Next, remove the distributor cap and unhook the wire that runs to the coil.

Then loosen the distributor clamp (10mm nut) and pull the distributor out.

That is too vague of a question. when you turn the key do the dash lights come on (two red lights on speedo). If so, when you turn the key to start the car, does the engine try to turn over? Is it turning over and not starting, or not turning over? or is nothing happening?

A range from 4,079 millimeters (160.6 inches) to 4,278 millimeters (168.4 inches) answers questions regarding the length of the Volkswagen Beetle. The first figure represents the length in the Volkwagen Beetle Type 1 manufactured from 1938 to 2010 while the second shows the length of the A5 VW Beetle produced since 2011. In-between the two extremes stands a length of 4,129 millimeters (162.6 inches) for the VW New Beetle released between 1997 and 2010.

Their is a mesg filter (not a proper filter like on a modern car) underneath the engine. To get to it remove the circular plate in the center of the undermeath of the engine.

I weighed my '69 convert a few months ago and it weighed approximately 1960 lbs.

I run 205 x 45 x 17 inch tyres on my bug with no spacers, you do not get the full steering lock and they just slip under the wings on full suspension travel.

From page 46 of a 1966 Volkswagen Owners Manual, the gear ratios are: 1st gear 3.80:1 2nd gear 2.06: 1 3rd gear 1.26:1 4th gear 0.89:1 Reverse 3.88: 1

The standard maintenence calls for : 90,000 miles if its a manual, & 100,000 miles if it is an automatic. . The maintence schedules are in your owners manual, & online as well. . Hope that helps ya. . .

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