VW Super Beetle

You use a feeler gauge set to .006 in. Engine cold. You really should get the Bentley manual as you will need it. It has gobs if info in it.

It can blow out a main seal, or even a gasket if it is overfilled regularly. But usually it will just burn off. at least that's what I've heard a few people say.

If I remember right, it's the amount of time the points stay closed. How long they stay closed for the coil to zap the plugs. The longer the dwell the longer the spark. Too long a dwell then it uses up to much juice and there won't be enough time to recharge for the next zap. Too little then the spark won't be hot enough.

In my opinion, they are a good car and stable on the road. If you look at the tire width or stance, they are quite stable and less likely to roll over than an average car.

Go for it and buy one.

Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 answers.

SAE 30W is what was required but you can use a 10w30 or if your in a hotter climate most of the year you can go to a 10w40 or so.

It is a pain to do, but you need two 17mm wrenches and a friend. The starter is on the right side of the car bolted to the transmission.

Friend crawls under the car, which is jacked up and on jackstands (this procedure also works for Buses but you don't have to jack them up), and puts the box-end of one of the wrenches on the top bolt.

You put the other wrench in your hand, reach around behind the fan shroud on the right side, feel around until you find the nut, then remove it with the wrench you have.

Once you get the bolt out, you go to your bolt can, get a bolt about an inch long, then take both bolts to a welding shop and tell the guy "this is a VW starter bolt (holding up the long one) and I'd like you to weld this bolt (holding up the other one) to the head of it." The guy will take it in the back and come out a couple minutes later with the job done. Give him five bucks, thank him nicely and you'll be able to remove the bolt easily forevermore.

http://www.dbsforums.com/azel.html use this to coordinate azimuth, elevation and angle.

Perhaps bad bulbs or bad switch

Actually the most common cause of low beam failure on Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy and Buick Ranier is the micro relay located under the hood. It is part number 15016745 and has four prongs. To test if your relay has gone bad locate the relay in your fuse box. There will be two such relays located next to each other. One controls the low beam headlights and the other the cooling fan. Swap the relays and check your low beam headlights. If the low beams work you have a bad relay. Sometimes when the relay goes bad a bulb will burn out as well so if need be check your bulbs. Make sure to swap the relays back so that the cooling fan is not inoperative. Purchase a new relay either online, eBay, auto parts store or dealer. Best deals are usually found online but fastest is the dealer if they have them in stock. Dealer prices aren't cheap, expect to pay $40 to $50, but if you can't wait to have the relay shipped to you it is sometimes your only option. I actually found mine on eBay for $20.

Try online search for "15016745 relay"

change the light bulb that does not go on, on low beam, it possible that the wire inside the bulb for low beam is broken

The Beetles have the two levers on the center console on either side of the emergency brake handle. One is the Heat on/off lever and the other is the floor/defroster lever.

Push the heat lever all the way down to the floor to turn it off.

Bulbs burnt out (they are double filamented low beam may be burned out) Bad dimmer switch? Bad headlight switch? Bad low-beam relay?

2000 lbs.

$1940.00

1500 rpm.

Did you check to see if you actually had power to the light socket? Old cars are bad for having bad grounds.

Check and clean the light "Housing" connections first if you have power to the socket. The housing and body will sometimes corrode just enough to lose the ground. Just loosening and re-tightening the bolts will some times fix it. When you check for power make sure you use more then one place for a ground. Make sure the fuse connections are nice and clean as they can get a real fine layer of corrosion and then you won't get a connection there either.

u have to take the hole thing apart to get to a small screw to take the switch out

my hi/lo switch just crapped and the lights died completely before the switch quit for good. Maybe that's what happened to you? If anyone knows how to change the switch on a 1990 3.1L Corsica please post.

Thanks

Freaker

I had same problem on 89 Corsica. Hi/lo switch under dash and hard to take off unless you remove steering column so I unplugged switch and plugged in new switch and set new switch on low beam and wired switch to column. Now have low beams but since new switch not connected to activator rod (which goes to turn signal handle) as old switch still attached to activator rod, only have low beams. New switch about ten dollars. On 89 there is ground wire on body in front of battery. First, unbolt and clean ground, as bad ground can make lights inoperative so if you are lucky, cleaning ground could solve problem.

It was a sport version of the normal car. It had different wheels, paint, interior accessories, etc. Kind of a collectable if it's in half way decent shape.

Looking in the engine bay it's on the top left side of the motor under the sheet metal for the engine cooling tin.

You have to take the tin off in order to access the oil cooler. The cooling air for the cylinders also routes some of the air to the oil cooler. I comes _out_ the front of the tin right on top of the #3 exhaust pipe.

In my experience, little as it may be,there is a possibility that the problem lies in the cables that run from the cab to the engine compartment. I would start there.

yes but u need an adapter to fit the wider rims,i have a set on eBay look under vw beetle adapter,

High beam light is out!

Yes

yes it will,

the wiring as followed;

yellow - fuel guage right side

brown- Ground, it just hooks on to the speedo housing (might be 3 or 4)

blue- Generator

blue/green (could be green / red) - Oil pressure

blue white - Hi beam light

green with a black wire - green middle light under (turnsignal) black up to

fuel guage left side (holding the speedo wires toward you

white/red - instrument lights (two joined togeather on the top