VW Super Beetle

The Volkswagen engine with the part number 211 101 101E is typically associated with the Type 1 (Beetle) and Type 2 (Bus) models produced during the late 1960s to the early 1970s. Specifically, this engine is part of the 1600cc family, commonly used in vehicles around 1968 to 1979. The exact year can vary depending on the specific vehicle model and production run. For precise identification, it's best to check the engine's serial number against Volkswagen's production records.

To install an accelerator cable on a 1989 Volkswagen Westfalia camper, first, remove the old cable by disconnecting it from the accelerator pedal and the throttle body. Feed the new cable through the firewall and connect it to the pedal, ensuring it is properly seated. Then, attach the other end to the throttle body, adjusting the tension as necessary to ensure smooth operation. Finally, test the accelerator to ensure it's functioning correctly before reassembling any removed components.

To lift a VW Super Beetle, place the jack under the designated jacking point, which is located near the front or rear suspension. For the front, position the jack under the center of the front beam, just behind the axle. For the rear, place it under the rear axle or the torsion bar. Always ensure the vehicle is on a level surface and use jack stands for safety once lifted.

To fix the hood release on a 1971 Beetle, first, check the cable for any breaks or fraying; if damaged, replace it. If the latch mechanism is stuck, spray it with penetrating oil to loosen any rust or debris, then manually operate it to ensure it moves freely. Adjust the cable tension if the release feels loose or unresponsive. If necessary, consult a repair manual for specific adjustments or part replacements.

To change the clutch in a 1972 Super Beetle, start by disconnecting the battery and removing the engine. Support the car securely on jack stands, then drain the transmission fluid. Remove the clutch cover and pressure plate, along with the old clutch disc. Install the new clutch disc and pressure plate, reassemble the transmission, and finally, reinstall the engine and reconnect the battery.

If your low beams are not working on your 1994 Jeep Cherokee while the high beams function properly, the issue may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty headlight switch, or a problem with the wiring or connections. First, check the fuse box for any blown fuses related to the headlights and replace them if necessary. If the fuses are fine, inspect the headlight switch and wiring for any damage or corrosion. If the problem persists, consider replacing the bulbs, as they may have burned out.

To put the top down on a VW Beetle, locate the convertible top release lever, usually found near the windshield or on the dashboard. Pull or push the lever to release the latches. Then, gently pull the top back and guide it into the storage compartment. Ensure the top is fully secured in place before driving.

A Suburban that runs for a while and then shuts off could be experiencing several issues. Common causes include overheating due to a faulty thermostat, fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter or failing fuel pump, or electrical issues like a bad ignition coil. Additionally, a malfunctioning sensor, such as the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor, could cause the engine to stall unexpectedly. It's important to diagnose the specific issue through troubleshooting to identify the exact cause.

For a 1971 VW Beetle, a standard DIN-sized radio or a retro-style radio designed for classic cars will fit well. The original radio opening is typically about 7 inches wide and 2 inches high, so look for a radio that matches these dimensions. Additionally, consider using an adapter plate if you're installing a modern radio to ensure a snug fit. Make sure to check the depth of the radio as well, as space behind the dashboard may be limited.

The VW engine codes 000.101.102 and 211.101.102 correspond to air-cooled engines used in various Volkswagen models. The 000.101.102 is typically associated with early Volkswagen Type 1 (Beetle) engines from the late 1960s to early 1970s, while the 211.101.102 code is linked to the Type 2 (Bus) engines produced primarily in the 1960s and 1970s. The exact year can vary depending on the specific model and production run.

Well, when it comes to tire pressure, it's like painting a happy little picture. For a 2000 VW Beetle, the recommended tire pressure can usually be found on a sticker inside the driver's side door jamb or in the owner's manual. Just like adding the perfect touch of color to a painting, make sure to check and adjust the tire pressure regularly to keep your Beetle running smoothly and safely.

super-bugs its a infection that causes a MRSA and its usaully happen in Hospitals, because when the patients in hospital is ill the bacteria can get through the drips and easilly cause super-bug and can kill the patient. It happen one third of us.

First, you'll need a radio. If there isn't a hole in the dash the right size for the radio you'll need to cut one or mount it underneath the dash or in the glovebox. There is a spare fuse location in the standard fuse box (furthest to the right on the Australian model, if I remember right) which is provided by the factory for an optional radio. Wire power to that, earth to any metal part of the body behind the dash. Depending on the radio, you'll probably need both a switched and unswitched power input, check different fuses with a multimeter and turn the key on and off to find what you need. If you don't understand so far, pay a professional to do it.

If you don't have any speakers yet, there are holes in the metal behind the door trims for a shallow round speaker of about 5" diameter, and you can cut holes in the door trims and stick them in there. Most modern speakers are too deep and you'll need to buy or build some spacers or door pods for the speakers, or put them somewhere else, like in a wooden parcel shelf behind the back seat. There would be room behind the back seat for plenty of audio gear, and the rear side panels might be an option as well.

I've seen speakers in front kick panels and underneath the dash as well but don't like them in that location. Of course, there's always the standard position of a single speaker behind the dash next to the speedometer!

Maybe I am missing something, but I would try replacing the bulbs. There's a very good chance it will work, and it is inexpensive and easy to do (if it only needs a bulb). Hopefully, you don't have to replace the whole headlight and can just screw a replacement bulb into the back of your headlight. That's how it works on my Olds Cutlass Cierra.

Should be 28-32

As old as these cars are, it could be anything: I've seen one that's green, two that were red, a purple one, five black ones and a white one. What happens is the wire goes bad (as any wire that's fifteen feet long and thirty years old will do) and the guy who owns the car will go to his stash box, pull out the first hunk of 12-gauge stranded wire he can find, and fix the car with it. If that hunk of 12AWG is chartreuse green with a pink stripe, the color of the hot wire on your car is chartreuse and pink.

2000 lbs, give or take a 100 lbs.

I really depends on what distributor you have on the engine. It could be a mechanical advance distributor or a vacuum advance distributor (stock). Google "the Somba" Volkswagen forum and all will be explained.

You use a feeler gauge set to .006 in. Engine cold. You really should get the Bentley manual as you will need it. It has gobs if info in it.

It can blow out a main seal, or even a gasket if it is overfilled regularly. But usually it will just burn off. at least that's what I've heard a few people say.

If I remember right, it's the amount of time the points stay closed. How long they stay closed for the coil to zap the plugs. The longer the dwell the longer the spark. Too long a dwell then it uses up to much juice and there won't be enough time to recharge for the next zap. Too little then the spark won't be hot enough.

In my opinion, they are a good car and stable on the road. If you look at the tire width or stance, they are quite stable and less likely to roll over than an average car.

Go for it and buy one.

Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 answers.

SAE 30W is what was required but you can use a 10w30 or if your in a hotter climate most of the year you can go to a 10w40 or so.

It is a pain to do, but you need two 17mm wrenches and a friend. The starter is on the right side of the car bolted to the transmission.

Friend crawls under the car, which is jacked up and on jackstands (this procedure also works for Buses but you don't have to jack them up), and puts the box-end of one of the wrenches on the top bolt.

You put the other wrench in your hand, reach around behind the fan shroud on the right side, feel around until you find the nut, then remove it with the wrench you have.

Once you get the bolt out, you go to your bolt can, get a bolt about an inch long, then take both bolts to a welding shop and tell the guy "this is a VW starter bolt (holding up the long one) and I'd like you to weld this bolt (holding up the other one) to the head of it." The guy will take it in the back and come out a couple minutes later with the job done. Give him five bucks, thank him nicely and you'll be able to remove the bolt easily forevermore.