It's actually easy. The first step is to loosen the master cylinder from inside the truck. It's hooked to the clutch pedal so you cant miss it,,
2. Use the disconnect tool to get it loose from the transmission..
3. Pop out the inner fender over the driver side wheel well. Gently pull the line through the frame and out of the inside of the truck, bring it over the driver side wheel,
4. Get a friend and use the plunger that hooks to the peddle to bleed this part . Pump it up. Have a friend hold on to the part that goes in the trans as you push on the plunger. This will bleed the master cylinder so you can have pressure on the throw out bearing inside the trans when put back together.
5. After that, put it back together and then use the bleeder valve on the side of the trans. Pump the clutch up, open the valve and have a friend push the peddle down. ( Do not let off peddle be for closing the valve ) .
If you do not have a clutch after that, use a flat bar, slide it through the opening inside the trans, pump the clutch back up, open the valve and use the bar to push the throw out bearing back to the back of the truck to force the remaining air out. Once again do not let off the bar until the bleeder valve is closed . That should take care of the complete system.
While I am not a Ford mechanic, I can offer the following words:
If the 1994 Ford Ranger is like the 1997 Ford Ranger, the clutch slave cylinder is INSIDE the transmission bell housing. You don't have to be a mechanic to recognize the labor involved to get at it (to bleed it). My 97 Ranger clutch would not engage following two days of 20 below zero (F) weather. I figured the weather had something to do with the malfunction and that it would be prudent to wait until it got above freezing to bleed the clutch MASTER cylinder (which is outside, and in front of, the bell housing). It got above freezing 2 weeks later, I bled the (easily accessible) Master cylinder - and guess what? The clutch still didn't engage. I towed the wretched machine to the nearest Ford qualified mechanic and 700 dollars and 4 days later the bitter truth was revealed: Ford Engineers can't design a fluid clutch assembly that can be reasonably maintained without dropping, and splitting the transmission (and without dropping a lot of cash)!
There is a great tutorial on AutoZone's site on how to do my 1997 Ranger 2.3L 2WD.
If your transmission has a bleed valve for the slave cylinder sticking out just above the master to slave cylinder quick connect going into the trans, then this tutorial is for you.
The transmissions in the Ford Rangers are actually designed and built by Mazda, Most are the M50 R1 5 speeds. The clutch throwout bearing and slave cylinder are replaced as a single unit which ups the price. You have to drop the trans, but the case is not split for replacing the slave. Yep, I have a 1995 Ranger and the slave bleed valve is located on side of bellhousing. If you loosen your clutch pedal (won't disengage) check the level of brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Try and bleed the system with fresh brake fluid until the fluid runs out clear. Mine was black as coal when I first bled mine and after several minutes of bleeding the system the fluid ran clear and the clutch pedal worked again. I have not had any problems with the clutch since then. I do need to add a bit of fluid every once in a while.
Hydraulic clutches are all the same on cars. The main thing is figure out a way to tighten those fluid pipelines very tightly so that there are no leaks, It is very important to bleed them just once or else you wont get a nice pedal. The very main key once you install them is 'never touch', that is it, that's is why you want to get the bleeding done right away. When bleeding make sure you fill the bleeder vacuum pump reservoir all the way. The reason is so that you are sure it is really flush and no going back. Thats it, once you install them both never touch after that. If you have the original dealer parts they last around 85,000 miles.
The clutch can't be adjusted. It is an hydraulic clutch. The clutch pedal sends pressure from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the clutch. IF you are having trouble with it the thing to do is bleed the air out at the slave cylinder. Have an assistant pump the clutch and hold it to the floor. Then open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder to let the air out of the system. On the final bleed hold the clutch to the floor and close the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. The clutch master cylinder operates of the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you keep this full of brake fluid as you bleed the clutch.
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