Air-Cooled VW

For this you need a Bentley manual, which I really don't like to tell people to do.

The process is pretty simple, in concept: remove all the bolts holding the body to the pan, disconnect the wiring and lift the body off. The problems are: there are a LOT of bolts and a lot of wires, and the body weighs about a thousand pounds. The Bentley has pictures. It doesn't have the five helpers you're going to need.

No gas, battery bad, coil bad, points or condenser bad, timing WAY off, carb screwed up, or engine broken.

in engine cover.it connects to the breather hose on the RHS of the engine cover.

Stock they came with a 15 inch diameter and usually a 4 to 5 inch width.

Jack the car up and put it on jackstands, then unhook the battery.

Next, open the hood and look behind the fan shroud on the right side of the car. There's a 17mm nut. Remove it, that's the top bolt holding the starter in.


Crawl under, find the starter (it's above the CV halfshaft on the right side) and remove the bottom nut holding it in. Pull it back, lower it as far as you can and unhook the two wires coming out of it. One is a push-on, the other uses a 13mm nut.

http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/view_parts_book.php?pageid=104

BFY obsolete parts has a parts book you can search. I use it all the time to figure out where things go. or how they are put together. it also helps me gather the parts I need to do the job by showing everything that goes with what your getting.

Also How to keep your VW alive book I call it the Dummy book no offense meant.

I am a 40something woman and I manage to get along well with the book.

Might I also suggest the whacker tool to get the rear nut off the wheel.

I think it has another name But I call it a whacker tool because you put it on the nut put the bar on the tool then a pipe on the bar and beat the crap out of the whacker with a sledge hammer while someone is standing on the pipe. It works for me. You feel better afterwords.

Hello, I work for an Automotive center, saw your question and here is the answer, It depends. Alignment is basically the adjustment of the tire's position vertically from the front and side, and compares position parallel wise (toe in) and forward. How long it lasts is relative to how much driving you do and what happens to the car, say when you hit a pot hole, and such. If you hit something (pothole, curb ect.) it is a good idea to check alignment. Rough road conditions require more frequent alignments A general rule of thumb is to check alignment any time you buy new tires and at least once a year for rough driving areas, like New England. At any time you SEE uneven wear on your tires you probably need one, and may need other work as well. Alignment is also a good way to check suspension and related components (ball joints , tie rods,)which wear out over time.

under the rear seat

I don't have a listing for a HM but the HO engines were 1500 cc (1.5 liters).

They should interchange, the doors are identical and the hinges are the same.

This would be model years 1971 through 1972 1200 cc "34 horsepower" Type 1 Beetle engines.

If you need to replace the one that's in there--they go bad because they're cardboard--open the front hood. Right above the gas tank there may be a metal plate that goes all the way across. If there is one, remove it--it is held on with a lot of screws and mastic, so you have to pry it off. The glovebox is held on with a metal strap. Undo the strap, remove the old glovebox, put the new one where the old once was...for the rest, "installation is the reverse of removal."

Do you mean a chrome aftermarket cover or the whole firewall? The aftermarket chrome one you will need to remove the engine, the stock firewall will require some extensive bodywork and the interior being removed.

No.

1969 VW Beetles do not, nor should they need, starter gaskets. If it's leaking around the starter, it's because one of the two seals back there is leaking.

You must first figure out what oil is leaking out. Crawl under the car and pick up some of the oil on one of your fingers. Then get out of there, open the engine cover, pull the dipstick and wipe it on another one of your fingers. If the same oil is on both fingers, the engine's main seal is leaking. If they're different, the transmission seal is leaking.

Pray it's the transmission seal if you don't have an impact wrench because changing the engine seal can't be done without one.

36 mm

on my 72 super they are attached to the master cylinder witch is located under the car l on the drivers side near the frame head. usually 2 of them.

any engine carburated i would go with the 1600

1970 , 1600cc

Because your timing's too retarded. You're probably running REAL hot too.

You can time your engine one of two ways, and you need a timing light for either--the "static" timing light John Muir talks about is no good for a 1600 engine. If you've got the stock pulley you'll find a notch in it. It aligns with the seam in the case--they put in the offset you need because the correct timing is 5 degrees BTDC. If you've got a degree wheel, you want the 0 line to be to the left of the seam.

Once you've done that, reach up to the throttle lever on the carb and jerk it toward you. No I'm not kidding--grab it and give it a hard yank. If the engine has a lag between you yanking and it accelerating, you need to tweak the timing a little.

look around for another number that should start with an H5, meaning it is a 68/69 with a 1500 singleport

It's run on air instead of a little electric pump.

There is a tube connected to the spare tire that is filled to about 45 psi, goes to the water tank, then goes to the button, then to the windshield.

Your expected to release the extra air out of the good spare when you have a flat, but then you won't have a windshield washer now that the bad spare is flat.