Air-Cooled VW

70-72 1600 dual port

Make sure it's tuned properly, the engine compartment is properly sealed, and the fan belt is adjusted. Three things that cause these cars to overheat are (1) timing retarded, (2) the gasket between the engine tin and the body is rotted out, and (3) the fan belt's too loose. Also the engine speed relates to cooling and the ACVW must not be driven like a modern car cruising at 2K RPM. Generally speaking 1st to 20, 2nd to 40, 3rd to 60. Adjust accordingly, but you do not want to lug the engine or spin less than 2500 rpm for extended periods of time. You can also get oil temp or head temp gauges to help monitor the engine temps.

Not a much as you might think.

The Type 1 engine # is stamped on the crankcase under the generator support facing the rear. This # will tell you what year the motor is and the stock size if it has not been modified. ( Info from John Muir,s book HOW TO KEEP YOUR VW ALIVE)

30w is the manufacturers recommended.
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The best oil I know of for these engines is Shell Rotella T--SAE 30 in the summer, SAE 15W40 for all-season use. Rotella is heavy-duty diesel oil and it only comes in those two weights.

Gear oil 90 weight

The only thing I can think of...do you have the right fan belt?

Either the window is rubbing against the worn out weather stripping or the cable that moves the window up and down is dried out. Try taking the inner door trim off and put some light oil on the cable and sliders.

1. Put the back of the car on jackstands. I like to take off the left rear tire at this point; you can reach the clutch arm on the transmission through the wheelwell if you do.

2. Reach through the wheelwell and feel around for the clutch arm--it's the only arm on the transmission, and it's got a cable coming out of it going toward the front of the car. You'll find either a big wingnut or two hex nuts jammed together on the cable; these are the adjusters. Whichever you find, remove them.

3. Open the hood and unhook the throttle cable from the carb.

4. Go into the cabin and remove the pedal cluster. Pull it out and you'll find one of two things: that the cable end broke, or that the arm that pulls it broke.

If the cable broke, pull it all the way out of the car. Get a new one and paint it. When the paint dries, put a little axle grease on it. Hold it in your left hand and put your left index finger CAREFULLY into the hole the pedal cluster goes into, feeling around. Eventually you'll find the end of a tube that doesn't have the throttle cable sticking out of it. Push the clutch cable into this hole.

If the arm broke, it's held into the pedal cluster with a bolt sticking out the side of it. Undo the bolt, remove the arm (since it's probably rusted in, you'll probably have to tap it out with a hammer), grease the shaft on a new one, stick it in where the old one was and replace the bolt you took out. I would recommend changing the clutch cable at the same time; this job is a big enough pain you don't want to do it repeatedly.

And as the Bentley Manual says, installation is the reverse of removal.

.028. If you buy Bosch Super plugs, they're set to that at the factory. Check them before you put them in just in case they get thrown out in shipping, but I haven't received one yet that wasn't right.

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This sounds like an oil leak. More specifically, oil leaking from the valve cover gasket and then dripping on your exhaust somewhere. Replace the valve cover gasket and see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, search for the leak source and repair it accordingly.

My best guess would be to check the connection on the oil pressure sensor. you can find it on the side of the engine case just below the distributor. you may try replacing this sensor. it shouldn't cost more than $10. if this doesn't work you'll need to trace the wires.
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Before you do that, take the oil pressure sender out, stick a clean rag under the hole it was in, pull the center wire on the distributor so the car won't start and crank the engine over a couple times. If no oil comes out, the oil pump drive pinion isn't meshing with the slot in the end of the camshaft. You fix it by removing the crank pulley, then the back piece of tin followed by the oil pump cover. There are two gears in there. One of 'em has a shaft sticking out of it. Use a puller to push the shaft out a little, then stick it back in the engine. Wiggle it back and forth a bit. If the shaft's meshed with the slot, you won't be able to wiggle it far. Finish by putting a new paper gasket under the cover, bolting the cover on and changing the oil. Now...these cars will run a few miles with no oil pressure; the machinery inside the engine throws oil up on the moving parts. But it doesn't work forever.

Its under the motor

The configuration of the engine. Subarus, Honda Gold Wing and BMW R-series motorcycles and piston-powered airplanes have the same engine configuration, and they all sound like Volkswagens.

I assume you are referring to the 3 outlet ports? Thereare 2 separateones for the front brakes, one for the left front brake and one for the right front,and the 3rd goes to the rear brakes. There are 2 hoses from the fluid reservoir and 2 more on the bottom which have electrical connections, the brake light switch and the warning light switch.

No, the A/C system on a 2004 uses R134a, an alternative to freon (R12) which was phased out in the 1990s.

The main object is cleanliness..Make certain all metal lips are spotless from dirt, debris and rust...Install w/s rubber on glass/ use plenty of spray sillicone..Place a 1/4 inch nylon rope in the body lip of weatherstrip, overlap the ends if the rope at the bottom about 4 inches...Now, start pulling rope slowly to pull rubber lip over metal edge of body opening..have someone push down slightly on windshield as the rope is pulled..More silicone spray....Continue to pull rope slowly as rubber lip of weatherstrip folds over the metal edge of body opening..More silicone spray..Pull both ends of rope the same amount on each side until at the top where the glass will pop into place...Run your hand around outside of rubber to be certain all is in correct position...

Now you did it!!! Get glass cleaner to remove all that silicone

if in fact thats happening, whats the condition of the engine seal, between the apron and the engine. also the air hose between the fan shroud and the heater boxes are important even if you dont use the heat. they keep the heater boxes from getting hotter than the sun! any other missing tin pieces combined with everything else has to be there. vw didnt put any parts on just for looks they are all critical! try to stay away from after market parts!oem german when possible . even used german parts are better than the brazil swag.

Tuneup + water pump + timing belt change = $801

Whether you have a generator or an alternator isn't critical here, although you probably have a generator. Anyway, how I get 'em out is to remove the hood, the carburetor and intake manifold, then remove the screws that hold the fan shroud in place. Remove the fan belt, generator strap and generator wiring. Finally, grasp the fan shroud and lift it completely out of the car. After that there are four bolts holding it to the fan shroud, and one holding the fan on. Finally, there are four bolts holding the backing plate to the generator.

The VIN is located on top of the dash,on the driver's side,up by the windshield.Look through the windshield from the outside fcr best viewing.

That is an AS21 case. The number is the VW part number. It looks like it may be a 1600 CC 4 cylinder beetle style engine. Get the number of the engine off the generator pedestal mount (flat spot under the pedestal on the engine) and look it up with a beatle repair manual listing. Haynes publishes a good one for this type of data.

With a volt meter or a test light ,it also might be a fuse