BMW

In the trunk, underneath the floor-cover, on the passenger side.

check in the trunk

inside the fuel tank

Bayerische Motoren Werke [Bavarian Motor Works]

You must replace the brake pad sensors inside or on the rear calipers... usually that is the reason why a brake service is more expensive on a bmw. all due to sensors and the availability of those sensors

Looking from the front of the car, it is located on the right side at the back of the engine. Pelican parts says you have to remove the intake to get to it.

But you can remove the MAF and the throttle body then you can see it positioned on the engine block.

Some people have said they were able to reach it from under the car on jack stands.

Hope this helps.

tbs04

bmw m6

The first BMW was made in 1927

there is a huge difference, pretty much everything is different, a easier question would be what is similar. and the answer to that is pretty much only the looks on the outside and interier. now the engine, suspension, brakes, transmission, basically everything that makes a car perform the way that it does is different, in your case, the engine is a 323 is called a m52tu, and engine in m3 is a s54, these engines are competely different from one another, the transmissions, are also completely different, you may have a auto in a 323, however the m3 (depending upon year) does not come with a auto, and the manual trans for both cars are different, if the m3 is past 2002 i would get it, however i would also not recomend the 323, i would definitely get a 325 or better yet, a 330 coupe with the sports package, so 323 bad, older m3, not so good either, newer 2001 and up 325 330 series all good, be a little more specific with your question and i can help more...

try to reset oil light on 528i bmw year 2000

Ok first you need (Screwdriver+cutter+Pincer) .. then go driver's side, in front of door, lower side, .. use the screwdriver to remove the hood handle .. you will find a black wire .. remove the black cover of this wire, you will find a metal wire inside ..pull it with the pincer .. this will need from you to hold it well and pull strongly but gently...you will notice a small black handle extending out of grill, lift and open hood.

i hope this will help

Dynamic Stability Control...It needs to be on under most driving conditions because it helps your car maintain traction under extreme braking and turning. Read the manual. It may say to turn DSC off when you are in ice and snow.

If the car is being transported on a tow dolly, the exhaust and the drive shaft must be removed to prevent severe transmission damage. Another note, do not attach the tow hooks to the rear lower control arms, or the front control arms.

RESETTING OIL SERVICE INDICATOR:

If your OBC needs to be reset after completing your oil change, there are two ways. NOTE: If you miss a step, just turn the key back off and try again:

A. Model Year 1999 to Mid-2000: You should have the older round 20-pin DLC connector under your hood behind the battery terminal, you need to use a small length of wire to connect (short) pins 7 and 19 for 3-5 seconds with the ignition key in position 1 (Accessory).

B. After Mid-2000: You should not have the 20-pin DLC connector. You only need to hold the left odometer reset button while turning the key to position 1 (Accessory). Keep holding the button for 5 or so seconds until any of the following shows in the display: OIL SERVICE or INSPECTION with RESET or RE. Release the button and press it again for another 5 or so seconds until RESET or RE flash. While the display flashes, press the button one more time briefly. If done correctly, END SIA should show up for a few seconds. All done.

Yes, it should be tucked down underneath the horseshoe cover behind the rear seats. It is stowed away as the regular convertible, and then the hard top is clipped into place on top.

Always have someone help you take the hard top off, as the clips bend easily, and you run the risk of dropping it.

189hp

Yes, BUT you would need the seat module also. don't know if it can be wired(easily) to work.

You do NOT want to use dex cool in your BMW, I have been a profesional mechanic for well over 10 years and I am an ASE certified master auto technician. Dex cool is concoction of different phosphates and silicates as well as organic acid that breaks down and forms globs of a rusty colored sludge in your cooling system that can clog small coolant passages. This happens without warning in as little as 2 years of use compared to it's supposed 5 year life span even in GM vehicles that come factory with it. GM was subsequently sued over dex cool and their bankruptcy got them out of paying. Do not mix the two.

2796 cc

on the dashboard of my 2005 325i BMW there is a warning light that is not shown in my manual. the entire car is light up, and at the back left rear there is a red lamp light.

To above statement: A light is out and needs to be replaced.

What does a flashing p warning sign mean

More than one Web site has a solution to removing the rear wheel bearing from E30 BMW. If your car is not rusty like the ones here in NY, you might find this easy.

Assuming you have the tools to start this job (jack, proper jack stands, 30mm deep socket, breaker bar, medium sized gear puller, etc.), you start by loosening the 30mm nut on the axle shaft end. I ground the end of a 30mm socket so that it goes past the lock plate and fully engages the nut. Turn the nut off with the car on the ground.

Block the front wheels securely and raise car and put on jack stands. Try to push car side to side and fore and aft. If it falls, count yourself lucky and try again.

Remove the wheel and drum or disc. If disc, must remove brake caliper first.

Remove the six Allen socket head screws at the differential flange. Lower the axle end so it misses the differential. Hang it in place with whatever.

Using gear puller, push stub axle through bearing. If you feel that you have to hammer it through, realize that you could damage the threads at the end of the axle and ruin your chances for recovering your core charge.

Once axle is out, go around to the inside of the backing plate and hammer the flange out of the bearing using a healthy-sized hammer and a thick steel rod or punch, or a piece of galvanized pipe, about 3/4 in. size. This will probably cause the bearing to come apart. It is worn out, after all, and is less likely to stand the hammering.

Clear all the bearing pieces out of the hub, except of course, the stuck-in or rusted-in outer race.

Now, either buy the bearing removal tool from bavauto.com for $250, or a Lincoln Electric AC Stick Welder for about the same price from Sears. Welding electrodes, helmet, etc. would be a little extra. If you choose the welder, now you can also weld your granma's bedstead back together which you'd never be able to do with the POS tool from bavauto.

You might have to hunt for a place to plug in your 240VAC welder. You can try behind your kitchen electric range, or behind your dryer. You might want to wait until mom is away.

If you use the welder method, remove the large circlip that retains the bearing, then heat the outer race in the hub until it's thoroughly red hot in one place by depositing a bunch of weld metal in the middle of the race and moving slowly around the race for a maximum of 2 inches or so. Don't bother going near the edge of the bearing race with the heat. It is not necessary. The race is rather thin there and the thin part does not exert much resistance to removing the race. You don't want to weld the race to the hub by mistake by melting through the thin metal.

(Someone might prefer oxy-acetylene heat. If you'd rather, go for it.)

Go around behind the backing plate and tap out the outer race with your drift and hammer. Clean up the hub, and you're ready for reassembly.

If you have a MAPP gas torch, you might get lucky by heating the hub 'til it smokes and pushing and tapping in (using the old bearing race as a driver) the new bearing coated with a graphite-heavy anti-seize compound, but don't count on it. It's better to make a bearing installer out of a piece of 1-inch allthread, some pieces for steel to make a bridge for your installer (Google adjustable bridge puller, or look on eBay for bridge puller to see what the bridge is), 3 or 4 1-inch nuts, and a selection of very large thick washers (up to 3 in. O.D. from the hardware store, at least two of each). You will need a couple of pieces of steel for the legs of the installer too. Two equal-length 3/4 in. pipe nipples would probably work, if their ends are squared off. The legs push the new bearing outer race (don't push anywhere else on the bearing), using the old race to actually push on the new bearing.

The bridge material can be purchased at a steel supply, or a machine shop. (they might just sell it to you to get rid of you). A piece of rectangular tubing about 1 1/2 in. by 3 in., 5 in. long with a 1-in. clearance hole drilled through it in the middle, through the narrow side should work. Should be about 3/16 wall, or thicker. I think I actually used the flange for a bridge. Anyway, the installer is set up by having the allthread with one end through the hub with washers larger than the hole in the backing plate on the differential side and with a nut to push on the washers, and a nut on the other end to push on the bridge, which pushes on the legs, which push on the old race, which pushes on the new bearing.

It can be a rather hard push, so lube up your threads with oil and anti-seize compound.

After the bearing is in, reinstall the retaining ring. Use your installer to push the flange into the bearing. But first, be sure the axle splines slip more or less easily into the flange splines. If they don't, find out why and fix it. Look for dirt in the splines, or burrs that need to be filed or otherwise removed. I didn't do this and had to have a machine shop turn down one of the axle nuts and weld it onto a piece of tubing and weld a 1-in. nut on the other end. Then I could suck the axle through the flange using the installer.

The rest of it is the expected reverse order thing. I don't bother with those dumb lock plates. I use a torque wrench and just over-torque it a bit and dare it to come apart. I don't lube the axle or nut threads.

Enjoy.

I hope I didn't forget anything.

You didn't say what year, but it's most likeky on the back window if it is a late model BMW...

there is no dipstick to check the fluid, the fluid is lifetime and never needs to be changed or serviced, there is a fill plug on the bottom of the transmission, engine running, and trans warm, fluid should pour slightly out of fill plug..