Cadillac Fleetwood

doesn't have one

Absolutely yes. It would run for a couple of seconds and quit. If there is any water in the fuel it will freeze. Once weather warms and car runs, put a put a good quality DRY GAS in the gas tank, and fill it up. The dry gas will allow the water to eventually burn off.

It means, "Brotha want his Pork!!"

The turn signal flasher is next to the fuse panel at the lower left of the steering column. The hazard flasher is located to the right of the steering column.

fire order should be 1-6-5-4-3-2 for V6 v8=1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Use soap, not body wash. Body washes moisturize your skin and help keep the tan. Soap will make it fade fast. Also, try not moisturizing with lotions until the tan fades.

Sounds "like" it could be a malfunctioning electric window motor, amongstnumerous other ,wiindow up prior to repair. Put the ignition in the ON position. Make the main switch lets all windows operate. Open door with inop window. Push the window switch UP ( the inop door ) while ba ngg the lower section of the door with a closed fist. I'm serious. This will get to operate the window 90% of the time. Of course it will stop again sometime in the future. End call = RELACE THE WINDOW MOTOR

5 pounds

Hey Fred==Change the fuel filter first. Then if it still does it find out if it has fire or spray starting fluid in the throtle body and see if it needs fuel to run. GoodluckJoe

its a sensor my dads buick did the same (gm).................... for got the name of it thoe.....................................& it secrews right in. get it diagnos check its worth it..... iwanna say map sensor but not sure the name of it

Sounds like either an intake manifold or a vacuum leak

Remove the the rear seat, both top and bottom. Next you need to remove the covering on the rear deck. Some of these fasteners are accessible from inside the trunk. You can now access the speaker mounting hardware.

nope i thought i did i pull the thing out to end up realising you get it from the front when u pop the hood on the passenger side you will see the heater fan and all the ac stuff u need to remove the heater fan after that the plastic base were it was mounted comes off all of it u need to remove the plastic grill under the passenger side wiper theres bolts and small screws all around the plastic base/cap thing be carefull with the big screws on the fire wall u might not see them but they are under the black tar sealant crap they put on try scraping it off with a screw driver and u will uncover them then slightly start pulling the plastic base thing slowly cause the glue they put on is old and stiff u might crack it if u just pull it hard it will need to be played around a little bit once its off cause the hood is on the way and it will slowly come out and you will see the heater core right there pull the hoses and remove the bracket on top of it u will see it right away and also theres a clip down at the bottom that the original heater core mounts to it will give u a hard time but it will eventually let go off the core

the new heater core might not fit on the bottom clip like the oem one just drop it in place and push it down and it will just spread the clip and the bracket on top might not fit either at least on mine it didnt i use a zip tie to hold it in place ghetto i know but it work at least i got heat now

Push the set button then use the seek and scan buttons on the radio

L/R Package shelf

Hello, Jamison here, Could be several things,,,,,,,burned valves,BAD """PLUG WIRES""",jumped time on cam,crankshaft position sensor,A loab down on cam,,,,,,,,,,The list can continue,,, Have it checked out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Good luck, Jamison.

According to the ( about . com website ) - # 1 position on the distributor cap faces towards the drivers side The firing order is ( 1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2 ) The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE On the 4.1 liter V8 engine in your front wheel drive Cadillac

both ride on rubber tires

lt1

That is impossible to answer. It depends on which gas you are talking about and its pressure. At standard atmospheric pressure, oxygen freezes at -218.8 degrees C. Of course, under most circumstances the gas will liquefy before it freezes.

700R4

Disconnect battery. Drain rad, there's a plug on the back side towards the bottom of your rad that screws out. You have to take your serpentine belt off (1\2" rachet into tensioner), and remove your alternator. Find a way to jam the pully on your water pump ( its just below the alternator ) to take it off,a pair of vicegrips work well. There will be about a dozen 10 MM bolts going around the water pump. Take those out along with your idler pully ( the free spinning wheel towards the firewall)if you need to ( only if you have the 3 peice bracket, mine did but i replaced it with the 1 peice from an 86 or 87). if you pull on the water pump it should come off of the engine. Make sure that you remove all of the old seal before installing new pump and seal. You may want to use a little sillicone to hold the new seal to the pump to stop it from moving around.

Referenced from 'Chilton 28540 Deville/Fleetwood/Eldorado/Seville 1990-98 Repair Manual' Page 2-10, Fig. 28: 4.5L and 4.9L Engines 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, Distributor Rotation Counterclockwise. Number 1 Plug is in reference to facing front of motor, first(1st)Cylinder, right side. Page 2-10, Fig. 29: 4.6L Engines 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8, Distributorless Ignition System. Number 1 Plug is in reference to facing front of motor, Third(3rd)Cylinder, right side. This information should also be cast into the intake manifold.

The location of #1 wire should be marked on the distributor cap, but this assumes that base ignition timing is set correctly. If you've rotated the distributor, do the following:

1) Rotate the engine to #1 TDC. This means that the timing marks line up to #1 and that cylinder is on the compression stroke. It is on the compression stroke when you can't hold your finger over the spark plug hole while rotating the crank pulley clockwise.

2) Remove the distributor cap.

3) Loosen the distributor hold-down.

4) Rotate the distributor until the rotor points at the #1 terminal.

5) Reinstall cap and #1 spark plug and wire.

6) Warm up the engine, then put PCM it in set-timing mode using the climate control head.

7) Set base timing using a timing light.

No, unfortunately it will not. The holes will not line up properly on the rim. Any altercation to the rim will cause it to be unbalanced and could be potentially dangerous. I recommend buying another rim with the bolt pattern of 5X114.3, if that was the previous bolt pattern. This debate has gone round and round for ages and will seemingly never die. The difference between 5x114.3 and 5x115 is .7mm. MANY people the world over have overcome this (mostly on daily driven vehicles) by using hub-centric rings and some use what is called a "Wobble Nut". Though I would not suggest this for track driven cars or extreme performance driving, I have seen daily driven cars utilize those and have no problems whatsoever. People tend to forget that the rolling weight, when properly mounted, will ride on the center bore of the wheel. If you are holding the cars weight on the studs, you are in the wrong to begin with anyway.

firing order on 1964 caddy with 429 is18726543 clockwise