Chevy Chevelle

no, because the camaro came with leaf springs.

buy the emblems, peel the backing off the emblems and stick on the side of the raised part on each side of the cowl induction hood.

It depends on what options the car is equipped with. Does it have Air Conditioning? Does it have Power Steering? If it has neither, then the belt runs around the crankshaft pulley, water pump, and alternator. Power steering adds another groove to the crankshaft pulley, and another pulley on the pump itself. Same with Air Conditioning.

It really depends on the rear end (final drive) ratio. With steeper gears like 4.20's, it is redline limited. With a tall gear like 2.56's it would most likely be drag limited, given, they rarely, if ever came from the factory with a taller gear than 3.31:1.... Especially if the car was equipped with a 4-speed.

My friend, band break ups always come down to one thing- money. If you really want to know, follow Chevelle's money trail and you will get your answer. As is the case with every single band to ever break up.

i believe six quarts of dexron

A 1971 Chevelle was available with every engine in the Chevrolet line-up from the LS6 454 to the 250 cid inline six. With that in mind, the mileage would be somewhere between 4 mpg and about 25 mpg.

Sure you can. If you use a stock unit you will have to cut the firewall. The easiest way to do it would be to buy a vintage air system. They are actually easier to install on a non A/C car than the stock system is.

No. not the same.

1) undo all the screws on the heater core box inside the engine bay

2) undo the glove box door by unscrewing it from underneath then take out the glove box liner by NOT pulling but pushing it down out the rear

3) break the seal carefully around the box trying not to tear it too badly

4) disconnect the electric connection on top, this should give you enough wiggle room to take out the bad core and insert the new core

5) there are two tabs that hold the core inside, one snaps off and the other unscrews

6) insert the new core and reverse steps

* I did not have to take off the inside fender

by not disconnecting all the controls from the heater box (inside) you will not be able to check the blower etc. but if they work fine and you know you just need a heater core it's fine.

# Remove the steering wheel and directional signal switch.It is not necessary to pull the wire harness out of the column # Place the lock cylinder in run # Insert a small screwdriver into the turn signal housing slot.Keeping the screwdriver to the right side of the slot,break the housing flash loose and depress the spring latch at the lower end of the lock cylinder. # Remove the lock cylinder

type in 66 chevelle on google images.

The location of a VIN on a 1999 through 2007 Honda 400EX is on the front frame. It is located just behind the front bumper.

should bolt up to your engine but your tranny cross member will have to be moved either up or back to accommodate it and you will have to get the driveshaft reworked to fit.

You'll also need a special cable to make the o/d work. Check with Summit or Jeg's for the necessary parts.

Yes no difference.

Wrong, A 66 Chevelle and a 65 are totally different hood styles. 66 and 67 are the same

If you can not find it online, by looking up 66 chevelle wiring diagram, then buy a chilton book for 64-75 chevelles, I have a 1964, and just finished a 1968 nut and bolt body orr restoration, and without the chilton manual, i would of been lost, with some things, you can get the manual at most automotive stores, walmart, ect.

should be the same door and yes you should be able to eliminate the vent window as it just bolts in the door, I didn't think a 68 had a vent window.

Before you start, take the necessary safety precautions (like disconnecting the battery, etc.) Drain the radiator. Remove the heater hoses. The heater core itself is located under the dashboard on the passenger side. You will most likely need to remove the passenger side wheel well, if not the entire fender to get to all of the bolts. Remove all of the heater box bolts from the firewall. Once all the bolts are out you should be able to pull the cover off from under the dash. Removing the glove box will make access easier, but you can get it out with the glove box in place. Have some towels handy because you will most likely spill some antifreeze on the passenger floor. Assembly is the reverse of removal.

Check the steering column. There is a switch mounted to the column that controls the backup lights and the neutral safety switch.

all depended on how it was geared in the rearend.

Sure. Although the choke will at the very least, need adjusting if you can get it to work at all. You might need to adjust and/or re-jet the carb as well. But assuming that the carb is good, you can just bolt it on and it WILL run, just no telling how well it will run. I've done it before with no mods to the carb and it ran just fine. Other times, I had to fiddle with it to get it to run right. Since they are both 307's, chances are it will work just fine other than the possible choke issues.

You can make it fit, but chances are the wiring harness will be different as well as the length... Especially the length. You can try it if you have one laying around, but I wouldn't pay for a '72 steering column if you are working on a '75 Chevelle. now, a steering column from ANY 1973-1977 GM A-body should work just fine, so if you can't get one from a '75 Chevelle, you DO have other options.

Look for a plate near the bottom left corner of windshield or in driver's doorjamb.

around 5,500. but it does depend on alot of things. how many miles are on it. if it has been rebuilt what kind of parts were used (forged, cast, etc..) but for a stock 305 i would never run it over 5,500. but also you have to take into consideration that a fairly stock 305 will make peak torque at around 4,000 and peek H.P. at about 4,800-5,000. so reving it any higher isn't gaining you much. hope this helps

Sounds like you are putting more fuel through your engine than it can burn when cold and possibly a timing issue as well. Make sure that the timing is set at manufacturer specs and then adjust the carburetor jets to specs as well ( there will be an initial setting like one and a half turns out from closed ) and fine tune it from there. Before starting make sure that all plugs are gapped properly to specs as well, clean, and none of the wires are touching each other or laying across metal, use separators.