Chevy Corvette

One end is attached to your control selector mounted in the console. the other end is connected to a bracket next to the air vacuum cut off switch. This switch is located behind the glove box, which has to be removed. If you take off the passenger side console side cover you will see the adjuster for the cable and see where it connects to the selector. You have to remove the center section console to get underneath to disconnect it........

I believe it is #42 in the floor board fuse panel on the passenger side

Just did mine.First thing undo your battery negative cable from the battery.Its under your car next to the right side[passenger side] catalytic converter.Its about 12 inches away from your passenger door near the front tire next to the exhaust pipe. Big pain if you dont have the correct tools.If your a contortionest you can just undo the wires at the front of the vehicle end then unbolt the two bolts holding it and dont forget the battery.Auto part websites have illustrated instructions. Good luck, Brian

The air conditioning is a separate system from the cooling system and will not be affected by overheating, however if the overheating problem is associated with an inoperative cooling fan or a blockage in the air flow through the radiator and evaporator then the system will not cool properly.

About 180HP. Check www . idavette . net under production facts for more info. I swear by that site!

The front track of the 2005 Chevrolet Corvette is 5 ft. 2.1 in. (62.1 in.).

They never had a Metal body, they all started with a GRP plastic body it was not until 1997 when the switched to a non GRP or fiberglass body.

try turning the steering wheel it might be sprung causing the key from turning all the way. or try pushing on the shift lever, it will not lock the wheel until the care is in park !

Starting a fire in an area that is not in a designated campground or designated day use area is illegal. If you are in an designated campground use the fire pit to start the fire with wood you have brought with you or the fire logs you buy at a store.

Hole in wheel arch or floor pan or sill or a split seam. Windshield leak or door seal leak. Drain holes in bottom of door blocked.

actually - the correct answer is, your heater core is leaking. if it's not raining & they're not driving thru water puddles, then "always" wouldn't apply. if the car isn't driven during rainy times & it's still wet, seals have nothing to do with it.

if you are unsure though if it's your heater core, you can find out easily enough by taking a section of heater hose & temporarily bypassing your heater core (disconnect both heater hoses, & connect a new single hose across both heater core connections on the engine). this will not affect the engine or hurt the car in any way (in fact, it's been a long time way of stopping a cooling system leak for many until they feel like tearing apart the inside of their car to replace the core - which is a quite a job in many cars). after replacing the hose, dry the floor with a hairdrier & see if the wetness returns. if not, you know it's the heater core.

Well, I've tried what the manual said and i can't get the headlights to stop in the halfway position, making it impossible to remove the screws which hold the cover in place. Can anyone help with this question? I need to change the right headlamp. Thanx in advance.

the lifters may need adjusting or replacing. your engine not getting enough oil causes the lifters to make noise. not sure what motor you have in it but if it's an engine where you can tighten the lifters then you can buy a tool for it if you know what your doing

fastest production car in the world is the American made ultima gt//Europe bugatti veryon

The power window travel for a 77 Corvette is adjusted by bolts that are in slotted holes. Remove the door panel. Make small adjustments to each adjustment slot until the window travels properly.

Usually about .035" for points-type distributors and .045" for HEI type. A bigger gap is better, but only if the ignition system can handle it.

Also, 45's are a little hot for most performance applications. Try 44's, then 43's, but keep an eye on them for fouling.

I believe the first edition Corvette was introduced somewhere in the 1950's, so about 64 years ago. Newer models are released nearly every year though.

1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2.

Petrol

Well the first thing to check right off the bat would be to look at the oil level. That would be my first assumption as to why your engine oil light has come on. If you need to delve deeper into the subject, go on over to smokinvette.com and ask the question in the C4 section. Good luck!

First I would remove the lower one, it's the easiest. Once out, reach inside one end and pull the inner rod out as far as possible. then attach a drill on the other end and turn it on. If both ends turn at the same speed then it's probably ok. If you can hold the end opposite the drill without it turning then it's broken. Use the same method on the upper cable.

On the upper left side of your dash there are controls for the elevation and brightness.

The blower motor relay is located under the hood right next to the blower motor near the firewall.............

This is a broad question, and technicle, but I will try to help you, as much as I can. First off, unless this is a car for show only, then this is a pretty serious commitment. A tunnel ram, is for high rpm use, only. They DO NOT run well at all, in the cold, or even on the street. I can remember having to take a butane torch, and heating up the runner, just to get it to start, at 35, to 40 degrees. And, they backfire, flames, out of the carbs, a lot. And rain driving is pretty much out, due to the enormous scoop you are probably going to have to run. I remember spending $150, plus, just for the linkage to run my 660's sideways on the intake, which you have to do, to keep fuel to the float bowls, by the way. You should install 2 electric race pumps, and while you are back there, you are going to need super low gears, cause you will have to spin that thing 7000rpm, to reach the power band. A steel crank, and forged pistons, are a must, along with a set of DART., or other aftermarket head. You are going to need at least 4000rpm, out of your stall converter, and a manual valve body, would be a good idea. Having said all of that, Crane makes two cams that would work well. CC280anc, and the cc290anc. Either will make that motor scream. The first has .518, .536, on the lift, and 280, 290, duration. It has a 108 lobe center, so it will idle rough, but, it will make power allthe way to 7000. The 290 version, is more nasty, but has a higher rpm band. They both are dual patern cams, which seem to work better in this situation. They both have aggresive valve timing so remember to check valve to piston clearance. At least .120 on the chase valve. These are both flat tappet cams, but are both nasty enough to make this thing run. Most people "overcam" their small blocks. That is why I do not feel a roller, is needed here. Roller rockers, 7/16ths studs, and a stud girdle, are a must to spin those type of rpms. Also, I have found over the years that the holley 660 center squiter works best in a two carb situation. That have been said, from experience, I can tell you, you can go just as fast with a single 4 barrel. These days tunnel rams are pretty much for show....

If its the base model it has 300HP, but if its the ZR1 model, it has 405HP.

Jump on over to Smokinvette.com and ask for VetteOz, he has done this job a handful of times and he will point you in the right direction! Good luck!